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RAMBLES 

BY 

LAID  AID  WATER 


NOTES    OF    TRAVEL 


CUBA    AND    MEXICO; 

INCLUDING  A  CANOE   VOYAGE   UP  THE   RIVER  PANUCO,    AND 
RESEARCHES  AMONG  THE  RUINS  OF  TAMAULIPAS,  &c. 

"  He  turns  his  craft  to  small  advantage. 
Who  ino"*vs  not  "what  to  light  it  "brings." 


By  B.  M.  NORMAN, 

AUTHOR    OF    RAMBLES    IN    YUCATAN",    ETC 


NEW-YORK: 

PUBLISHED  BY  PAINE  &  BURGESS. 
new    Orleans: 

B.    M.    NORMAN. 

1845. 

t 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1845,  by 

PAINE  &  BURGESS, 

in  the  Clerk's  office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States,  for 

the  Southern  District  of  New  York. 


4 


fr 


•^ 


Stereotyped  "by  Vincent  L.   Dill, 

128  Fulton  st.    Sun  Building,   N.   T. 

C.  A.  Alvord,  Printer,  Cor.  of  John  and  Dutch  sta. 


PREFACE . 


The  present  work  claims  no  higher  rank  than  that 
of  a  humble  offering  to  the  Ethnological  studies  of  our 
country.  Some  portions  of  the  field  which  it  surveys, 
have  been  traversed  often  by  others,  and  the  objects 
of  interest  which  they  present,  have  been  observed 
and  treated  of,  it  may  be,  with  as  much  fidelity  to 
truth,  and  in  a  more  attractive  form.  Of  that  the  read- 
ing public  will  judge  for  itself.  But  there  are  other 
matters  in  this  work,  which  are  now,  for  the  first  time, 
brought  to  light.  And  it  is  the  interest,  deep  and 
growing,  which  hangs  about  every  thing  relating  to 
those  mysterious  relics  of  a  mysterious  race,  which 
alone  emboldens  the  author  to  venture  once  more  upon 
the  troubled  sea  of  literary  enterprise.  Had  circum- 
stances permitted,  he  would  have  extended  his  re- 
searches among  the  sepulchres  of  the  past,  with  the 
hope  of  securing  a  more  ample,  and  a  more  worthy 


VI  PREFACE. 

contribution  to  the  museum  of  American  Antiquities. 
He  has  done  what  he  could,  under  the  circumstances 
in  which  he  was  placed.  From  what  he  has  been 
enabled  to  accomplish,  alone  and  unaided,  he  hopes 
that  others,  more  capable,  and  better  furnished  with 
"the  sinews"  of  travel,  will  be  induced  to  make  a 
thorough  exploration  of  these  regions  of  ruined  cities 
and  empires,  and  bring  to  light  their  almost  boundless 
treasures  of  curious  and  interesting  lore.  The  field  is 
immense.  It  is,  as  yet,  scarcely  entered  upon.  No 
one  of  its  boundaries  is  accurately  ascertained.  The 
researches  made,  and  the  materials  gathered,  are  yet 
insufficient  to  enable  us  to  solve  satisfactorily  the  great 
problem  of  the  origin  of  the  races,  that  once  filled  this 
vast  region  with  the  arts  and  luxuries  of  civilization, 
and  reared  those  mighty  and  magnificent  structures, 
and  fashioned  those  wonderful  specimens  of  sculptured 
art,  which  now  remain,  in  ruins,  to  perpetuate  the 
memory  of  their  greatness,  though  not  of  their  names. 
The  exploration  and  illustration  of  these  marvels 
of  antiquity,  belong  appropriately  to  American  litera- 
ture. They  should  be  accomplished  by  American 
enterprise.  If  not  soon  attempted,  the  honor,  the  plea- 
sure, and  the  profit,  will  assuredly  fall  into  other  hands. 
Enough  has  already  been  done,  to  awaken  a  general 
interest  and  curiosity  among  the  wonder-seeking  and 
world-exploring  adventurers  of  Europe ;  and,  if  we  do 
not  speedily  follow  up  our  small  beginnings,  with  an 


PREFACE.  Vll 

efficient  and  thorough  survey,  the  Belzonis,  and  the 
Champollions  of  the  Old  World,  will  have  anticipated 
our  purpose,  and  borne  away  forever  the  palm  and 
the  prize. 

But  who  shall  undertake  the  arduous  achievement? 
Who  shall  be  responsible  for  its  faithful  execution? 
If  the  difficulties  are  too  great  for  individual  enterprise, 
could  it  not  be  accomplished  by  a  concert  of  action 
between  the  numerous  respectable  Historical  and  Anti- 
quarian Societies  of  our  country?  What  more  inter- 
esting field  for  their  united  labors?  Which  of  them 
will  take  the  hint,  and  set  the  ball  in  motion  ? 

It  is  only  required,  that  when  it  is  done,  it  should  be 
well  done — not  a  mere  experiment  in  book-making,  a 
catch-penny  picture  book,  without  plan,  or  argument, 
or  conclusion,  leaving  all  the  questions  it  proposed  to 
discuss  and  solve,  more  deeply  involved  in  the  mist 
than  before — but  a  substantial  standard  work,  com- 
plete, thorough  and  conclusive,  such  as  all  our  libra- 
ries would  be  proud  to  possess,  and  posterity  would 
be  satisfied  to  rely  upon.  There  are  men  among  us 
of  the  right  kind,  with  the  taste,  the  courage,  the  zeal, 
and  the  skill  both  literary  and  artistic,  to  do  the  work 
as  it  should  be  done.  But  they  have  not  the  means 
to  go  on  their  own  account  They  must  be  senf  duly 
commissioned  and  provided,  prepared  and  resolved  to 
abide  in  the  field,  till  they  have  traversed  it  in  all  its 
length  and  breadth    and  investigated  and  decyphered 


Vlll  PREFACE. 

so  far  as  it  can  now  be  done,  every  trace  that  remains 
of  its  ancient  occupants  and  rulers — and  the  country, 
and  the  world,  will  reap  the  advantage  of  their  labors. 

The  author  does  not  presume  to  natter  himself,  that 
he  has  done  any  thing,  in  his  present  or  any  other 
humble  offering,  towards  the  accomplishment  of  such 
a  work  as  the  above  suggestion  proposes.  He  is  fully 
conscious  of  his  incompetence  to  such  an  undertaking. 
His  main  desire,  and  his  highest  aim,  has  been  to  pre- 
sent the  matter  in  such  a  light,  as  to  awaken  the  atten- 
tion, and  stimulate  the  interest  of  those  who  have  the 
means,  the  influence,  and  the  capacity  to  do  it  ample 
justice.  And  yet,  he  would  not  be  true  to  himself,  if 
he  did  not  declare,  that,  in  the  effort  to  secure  this  end, 
he  has  used  his  utmost  endeavor  to  afford,  to  the 
reader  of  his  notes,  a  just  equivalent  for  that  favorable 
regard,  which  is  found  in  that  wholesome  impulse 
which  ought  invariably  and  naturally  to  precede  the 
perusal  of  any  book. 

New  Orleans,  October,  1845. 


jf 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER    I. 


Voyage   from   new   Orleans   to   Havana, 
tion  of  the  capital  of  cuba, 
Introductory  remarks, 
Departure  from  New  Orleans, 
Compagnons  de  Voyage, 
Grumblers  and  grumbling,  . 
Arrival  at  Havana, 
Passports. — Harbor  of  Havana, 
Fortifications. — Moro  Castle, 
The  city,  its  houses,  &c,    . 
An  American  Sailor, 
Society  in  Havana, 
Barriers  to  social  intercourse, 
Individual  hospitality, 
Love  of  show, 
Neatness  of  the  Habaheros, 


21 
21 
23 

24 
24 
25 
26 
27 
28 
29 
30 
31 
32 
33 
34 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER   II. 


Public  buildings  of  Havana. 

The  Tacon  Theatre, 

The  Fish  Market, 

The  Cathedral,  .... 

Its  architecture — paintings — shrines, 

Decline  of  Romanism, 

The  Tomb  of  Columbus, 

The  Inscription, 

Reflections,     .... 

Burial,  and  removal  of  his  remains, 

Ceremonies  of  his  last  burial, 

Reception  of  remains  at  Havana, 

The  funeral  procession,   . 

The  Pantheon,  , 

Mr.  Irving's  reflections,   . 

Plaza  de  Armas, 

A  misplaced  monument, 

Statue  of  Ferdinand  VII.,  . 

Regla — business  done  there,     . 

Going  to  decay, 

Material  for  novelists, 


PAGE. 
-THE  TOMB  OF  COLUMBUS,      35 

35 

36 
36 
37 
38 
39 
40 
40 
41 
41 
42 
43 
43 
44 
44 
45 
45 
46 
47 
48 


CHAPTER    III. 
The  suburbs  of  havana,  and  the  interior  of  the 

ISLAND,    .........  49 

Gardens. — Paseo  de  Tacon,     .         .         .         .         .         .  49 

Guiness,  an  inviting  resort  for  invalids,  ....  50 

Scenery  on  the  route. — Farms — hedges — orange  groves,  .  51 

Luxuriance  of  the  soil,         .......  52 

Sugar  and  Coffee  plantations,  .         .         .         .         .  52 

Forests  and  birds,        . 53 


CONTENTS. 


XI 


PAGE. 

Arrival  at  Guiness. — The  town,       .....  53 

Valley  of  Guiness,      ........  54 

Buena  Esperanza,             .......  54 

Limonar — Madruga — Cardenas — Villa  Clara,     ...  55 

Hints  to  invalids,     ........  55 

Dr.  Barton, 56 

Splendors  of  a  tropical  sky, 57 

The  Southern  Cross.          . 58 


CHAPTER   IV. 

General   view  of  the  island   of   cuba,   its  cities, 

towns,  resources,  (iovernment,  &c.        .         .  59 

Political  importance  of  Cuba,      ....  59 

Coveted  by  the  nations,    .......  60 

Climate  and  forests,    ........  61 

Productions  and  Population,     ......  62 

Extent — principal  cities,      .......  63 

Matanzas, — Cardenas,     .......  64 

Principe. — Santiago    ........  65 

Bayamo — Trinidad. — Espiritu  Santo,      ....  66 

Government  of  Cuba,           .......  66 

Don  Leopold  O'Donnell. — Count  Villa  Nueva,         .         .  67 

General  Tacon,  his  services,         ......  67 

State  of  Cuba  when  appointed  governor,            ...  68 

Change  affected  by  his  administration,           ....  69 

His  retirement,        ........  70 

Commerce  of  Cuba  with  the  United  States,          ...  70 

Our  causes  of  complaint,           .         .         .         .         .         .  71 

The  true  interests  of  Cuba,          ......  71 

State  of  education,             .......  72 

Low  condition  of  the  people,         ......  73 

Disco  very  of  Cuba,           .......  73 

Early  History. — Velasquez. — Narvaez,        ....  74 

Story  of  the  Cacique  Hatuey,           .....  75 


Xll 


CONTENTS. 


The  island  depopulated,  . 

Rapidly  colonized  by  Spaniards, 

Seven  cities  founded  in  four  years, 

Havana  removed. — The  Gibraltar  of  America, 

Possibility  of  a  successful  attack, 


* 


PAGE. 

76 

,  77 
77 
77 
78 


CHAPTER    V. 


Departure  from   Havana. — the  gulf  of  mexico 
arrival  at  vera  cruz,    . 

The  British  mail  steamer  Dee,    . 

Running  down  the  coast,  . 

Beautiful  scenery — associations, 

Discoveries  of  Columbus. — The  island  groups, 

The  shores  of  the  continent, 

The  Columbian  sea,        ..... 

The  common  lot  of  genius, 

Sufferings  cf  the  great. — Cervantes, — Hylander, 

Associations,  historical  and  romantic,  . 

Shores  of  the  Columbian  sea, 

Wonderful  changes  wrought  by  time, 

Peculiar  characteristics  of  this  sea, 

Arrival  at  Vera  Cruz. — Peak  of  Orizaba.    . 

Castle  of  St.  Juan  de  Ulloa,    .... 

The  harbor  and  the  city,     .... 

Best  view  from  the  water — houses — churches, 

Suburbs — population,  .... 

Health — early  history,     .         .         . 

The  old  and  new  towns  of  Vera  Cruz, 


CHAPTER    VI. 

Santa  anna  de  tamaulipas  and  its  vicinity, 
The  old  and  new  towns  of  Tampico,  . 


.   79 

. 

80 

.   81 

82 

.   83 

84 

.   85 

&c, 

86 

.   87 

. 

88 

.   89 

. 

90 

.   90 

91 

.   92 

93 

.   94 

. 

95 

•   96 

3INITT, 

97 

.     . 

.   97 

CONTENTS. 


Xlll 


The  French  Hotel, 

Early  history  of  Tampico. — Grijalva, 
Situation  of  the  new  town — health, 
Commerce  of  the  place — smuggling, 
Foreign  letters — mails,    ..... 

Buildings — wages — rents — tone  of  morals, 
Gambling  almost  universal,       .... 

The  army. — The  Cargadores, 

The  Market  Place — monument  to  Santa  Anna, 

A  national  dilemma,    ..... 

"  The  Bluff"— Pueblo  Viejo, 

Visit  to  Pueblo  Viejo,         .... 

Its  desolate  appearance. — "  La  Fuente," 

Return  at  sunset. — Beautiful  scenery, 

The  Rancheros  of  Mexico,      .... 

The  Arrieros,     ...... 

A  home  comparison,        ..... 


PAGE. 

98 
98 
99 
100 
101 
102 
103 
104 
105 
106 
107 
108 
109 
110 
110 
111 
111 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Canoe  voyage  up  the  river  panuco. — rambles  among 
the  ruins  of  ancient  cities,     ....     113 

An  independent  mode  of  travelling,  .....  113 

The  river  Panuco — its  luxuriant  banks,        .         .         .  114 

A  Yankee  Brick  Yard, 115 

Indians — their  position  in  society,         .  .  .  •  .116 

An  Indian  man  and  woman,     .         .         .         .         .         .         117 

Topila  Creek.— "  The  Lady's  Room,"        .         .         .         .118 

Fellow  lodgers, 119 

An  aged  Indian,  .         . 120 

Ancient  ruins — site  of  an  aboriginal  town,         .         .         .         121 
Rancho  de  las  Piedras,         .......     122 

The  Topila  hills— mounds, 122 

An  ancient  well,  . 123 


av 


CONTENTS. 


A  wild  fig  tree — mounds, 
An  incident — civil  bandoleros, 


PAGE. 

124 
.     125 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Further  explorations  of  the  ruins  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  rancho  de  las  piedras,      .         .         .         127 

Situation  of  the  ruins,  .... 


Discoveries — a  female  head     . 

Description — transportation  to  New  York, 

Colossal  head,  ..... 

The  American  Sphinx, 

Conjectures,    .... 

Curiously  ornamented  head, 

A  mythological  suggestion, 

Deserted  by  my  Indian  allies, 

A  thrilling  adventure, 

The  escape,        .... 

A  road  side  view,    . 


127 
128 
129 
130 
132 
134 
136 
137 
138 
139 
140 
140 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Visit    to  the  ancient   town   of  panuco. — ruins, 

curious  relics  found  there,      ....     141 


Route  along  the  banks  of  the  river, 

Scenery — rare  and  curious  trees, 

Panuco  and  its  inhabitants,        .... 

Language — antiquarian  researches — Mr.  Gallatin, 
Extensive  ruins  in  the  vicinity  of  Panuco, 
Sepulchral  effigy,        ...... 

Custom  of  the  ancient  Americans. — A  conjecture, 
An  inference,  and  a  conclusion,    .... 

Ruins  on  every  side — Cerro  Chacuaco,  &c. 

A  pair  of  vases,  .  ... 


141 

142 
143 
144 
145 
145 
147 
148 
149 
150 


CONTENTS. 


XV 


CHAPTER    X. 


PAGE. 

Discovert  of  talismanic  penates. — return  by  night 
to  tampico,         .......         151 

Two  curious  ugly  lookiug  images, 
Speculations,  .... 

Humbugs,  ..... 

The  blending  of  idolatries, 

Far-fetched  theories, 

Similarity  in  forms  of  worship  evidence  of  a 

Ugliness  deified — Ugnee — Gan — Miroku, 

The  problem  settled,        .... 

The  Chinese — Tartars — Japanese, 
Return  to  the  "  Lady's  Room," 
Travelling  by  night — arrival  at  Tampico, 
Rumor  of  war — attitude  of  the  French,   . 
Mexicans  check-mated, 
Backing  out,    ...... 

Dii  Penates,       ..... 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Excursion  on  the  tamissee  river. — chapote,  its  ap- 
pearance IN  THE  LAKES  AND  THE  GULF  OF  MEXICO,    165 

Once  more  in  a  canoe,     .......  165 

The  Tamissee — its  fertile  banks,           .....  166 

Wages  of  labor — a  promising  speculation,          .         .         .  167 

The  Banyan.— The  Royal  Palm, 168 

Extensive  ruins. — Mounds  on  Carmelote  creek,         .         .  169 

A  Yankee  house. — The  native  Mexicans,     ....  170 

The  chapote  in  the  lakes  of  Mexico,         .         .         .         .  171 

The  chapote  in  the  gulf  of  Mexico,     .....  172 

New  Theory  of  the  Gulf  Stream, 172 

Comparative  temperature  of  the  Gulf  Stream  and  the  Ocean,  174 


XVI 


CONTENTS. 


Objections  to  this  new  Theory,  . 
Another  Theory,  not  a  new  one, 
Tampico  in  mourning, 


PAGE. 
.       175 

177 

,     178 


' 


CHAPTER  XII. 

GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MEXICO,  PAST  AND  PRESENT. 
OF    THE  CAREER  OF  SANTA  ANNA. 

Ancient  Mexico — its  extent — its  capital, 

Its  imperial  government — its  sovereigns,  . 

Its  ancient  glory. — The  last  of  a  series  of  monarchies, 

Extent  and  antiquity  of  its  ruins,     .... 

Present  condition  of  Mexico, 

Population — government — transfer  of  power, 

The  Revolution — Iturbide, 

Internal  commotions — Factions, 

Santa  Anna,  his  origin  and  success, 

Victoria. — Santa  Anna  in  retirement, 

Pedraza, — Santa  Anna  in  arms  again, 

Guerrero — Barradas  defeated  by  Santa  Anna, 

Bustamente  President. — Pedraza  again, 

Santa  Anna  President. — Taken  prisoner  at  San  Jacinto, 

Returns  to  Mexico,  and  goes  into  retirement, 

In  favor  again. — Dictator — President, 

Paredes — Herrera — Santa  Anna  banished, 

Literature  in  Mexico — Veytia — Clavigero, 

Antonio  Gama, — The  inflated  character  of  the  Press, 

Preparing  to  depart — annoyances,    .... 

Detained  by  illness, — Kindness  of  the  American  Consul, 

Departure — at  home,       ...... 


179 

180 
181 
182 
183 
184 
185 
186 
187 
188 
189 
189 
190 
190 
191 
191 
192 
193 
184 
195 
196 
197 
198. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 
The  two  American  riddles, 
Baron  Humboldt's  caution, 


199 
199 


CONTENTS 


XV11 


PAGE. 

Enigmas  of  the  Old  World  but  recently  solved,    .         .         ,     200 

The  two  extremes  of  theorists, 201 

A  medium  course,       .         .         .         .         .  .         .     202 

Previous  opinions  of  the  author  confnvmed,        .         .         .         203 
Absence  of  tradition  respecting  American  buildings,      .         .     203 
Nature  and  importance  of  tradition,  ....         204 

The  Aztecs  an  imaginative  people,       .....     205 

Supposed  effect  of  the  conquest  upon  them,     .         .         .         206 
The  Aztecs  not  the  only  builders, — The  Toltecs.  .         .     207 

Extensive  remains  of  Toltec  architecture, — A  dilemma,  .         208 
Character  and  condition  of  these  ruins,        ....     208 

Evidently  erected  in  different  ages,  ....         209 

Origin  of  the  builders — sceptical  philosophies,      .         .         .210 

The  solitary  tradition, 211 

Imaginary  difficulties — tropical  animals,       ....     212 

A  new  Giant's  Causeway, 212 

The  Aborigines  were  not  one,  but  many  races,     .         .         .213 
No  head  of  the  American  type  found  among  their  sculptural 

remains,        ........         213 

Art  an  imitation  of  nature — copies  only  from  life,         .         .     214 
Inference  from  the  absence  of  the  Indian  type,  .         .         214 

American  ruins  of  Asiatic  origin,         .....     215 

Migratory  habits  of  the  early  races  of  men,      .         .         .         215 
Overflowings  of  the  populous  north,  .         .         .         .215 

Conclusion, 216 


LIST    OF    EMBELLISHMENTS. 


"vlgnette  title  page.       ....... 

moro  castle,  havana.           ......  27 

Peak  of  orizaba.               .......  90 

Castle  of  san  juan  de  ulloa,  vera  cruz.           .         .  91 

Indian  man  and  woman.           -                  ...  117 

Female  head.        .         .                  .....  128 

Colossal  head.          .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .  130 

The  AMERICAN  sphinx. 132 

Curiously  ornamented  head. 136 

A  situation.         ........  139 

a  road  side.             140 

Sepulchral  effigy 145 

a  pair  of  vases.              150 

Travelling  by  night. 161 

talismanic  penates.         .         , 164 

Fragments  of  idols.             178 


RAMBLES  BY  LAND  AND  WATER. 


CHAPTER    I. 

VOYAGE    FROM    NEW    ORLEANS    TO    HAVANA.       DESCRIPTION 
OF    THE    CAPITAL    OF    CUBA. 

Introductory  remarks. — Departure  from  New  Orleans. — Com- 
pagnons  de  voyage. — Their  different  objects. — Grumblers  and 
grumbling. — Arrival  at  Havana. — Passports. — The  Harbor. 
— The  Fortifications. — The  City. — Its  streets  and  houses.— 
Anecdote  of  a  sailor. — Society  in  Cuba. — The  nobility. — 
"  Sugar  noblemen." — Different  grades  of  Society. — Effects 
upon  the  stranger. — Charitable  judgment  invoked. — Hos- 
pitality of  individuals. — General  love  of  titles  and  show. — 
Festival  celebration. — Neatness  of  the  Habaneros. 

Who,  in  these  days  of  easy  adventure,  does  not  make 
a  voyage,  encounter  the  perils  of  the  boisterous  c^ean, 
gaze  with  rapture  upon  its  illimitable  expanse,  make 
verses  upon  its  deep,  unfathomable  blue — if  perchance 
the  Muse  condescends  to  bear  him  company — plant  his 
foot  on  a  foreign  shore,  scrutinize  the  various  objects 
which  are  there  presented  to  his  view,  moralize  upon 
them  all,  contemplate  nations   in   their  past,  present 


22  IMPULSE    OP    AUTHORSHIP. 

and  future  existence,  swell  with  wonder  at  the  large- 
ness of  his  comprehension — and  return,  if  haply  he 
may,  to  his  native  land,  to  pour  into  the  listening  ears 
of  friends  and  countrymen,  the  tale  of  his  ups  and 
downs,  his  philosophic  gatherings,  with  undisguised 
complacency  %  Whose  history  does  not  present  a  chap- 
ter analogous  to  this?  We  might  almost  write  one 
universal  epitaph,  and  apply  it  to  every  individual  who 
has  nourished  in  the  present  century. — "  He  lived,  trav- 
elled, wrote  a  book,  and  died." 

And,  seeing  that  in  this  auspicious  age,  when  the 
public  mind  is  alive 

"  To  every  peril,  pain  and  dread  of  woe, 
That  genius  condescends  to  undergo — " 

when  it  seems  disposed  to  appreciate  the  toil  of  intel- 
lectual effort,  by  the  deference  which  it  pays,  the  obedi- 
ence it  yields,  and  the  signal  support  which  it  gives,  to 
the  meritorious  productions  of  the  historian,  the  states- 
man and  the  scholar ;  when  we  behold  the  power  of 
discrimination  so  strikingly  developed  in  the  fact,  that 
men  are  infinitely  more  regaled  with  the  simple,  truth- 
ful narrative,  than  with  the  ponderous  tome  of  fictitious 
events,  however  pleasing  the  fabrication  is  made  to 
appear ; — who,  it  may  be  asked,  I  care  not  whether  he 
has  washed  his  hands  in  the  clouds,  while  tossed  upon 
the  summit  of  a  troubled  wave,  or  looked  out  upon  the 
world,  from  Alps  highest  peak,  or  whether  he  has  lean- 
ed over  the  side  of  an  humble  canoe,  to  disturb  the 
tranquil  waters  of  some  placid  stream,  above  the  bosom 
of  which,  his  modest  aspirations  will  never  suffer  him 
to  rise, — who  that  has  travelled,  it  matters  not  how, 


DEPARTURE  FROM  NEW  ORLEANS.       23 

can  do  otherwise  than  exclaim,  "Oh  that  my  words 
were  now  written — Oh  that  they  were  printed  in  a  book !" 
Though  not  disposed  to  allow  that  no  higher  senti- 
ment than  this  prevalent  cacoethes  scribendi  has  influ- 
enced me  in  the  present  attempt,  I  am,  nevertheless,  so 
thoroughly  convinced  of  its  epidemic  prevalence  at  the 
present  time,  that  I  am  resolved  neither  to  wonder  nor 
complain,  if  friends  as  well  as  foes,  "gentle  readers" 
as  well  as  carping  critics,  should  set  it  down  as  only 
and  unquestionably  a  symptom.  I  shall  retain  my  own 
opinion,  however,  albeit  I  do  not  express  it ;  and,  con- 
tenting, nay  congratulating  myself  with  being  in  good 
company,  shall  complacently  set  out  upon  another 
"  ramble,"  and  sit  down  to  another  book,  whenever 

"  the  stars  propitious  shine," 

or  health,  or  business,  drives  me  away  from  my  quiet 
pursuits  at  home. 

It  is  no  slight  gratification,  it  must  be  allowed,  to  be 
enabled,  by  so  feeble  an  effort,  to  make  all  one's  friends, 
as  well  as  a  portion  of  the  great  world  unknown,  com- 
pagnons  de  voyage  in  all  our  rambles — to  bring  them 
into  such  a  magnetic  communication  with  our  souls, 
that  they  shall  at  once  see  with  our  eyes,  and  hear 
with  our  ears,  and  enjoy,  without  the  toil  and  weari- 
ness of  travel,  all  that  is  worthy  of  remembrance  and 
record,  in  our  various  adventures  by  sea  and  land. 

On  the  20th  of  January,  1844,  in  company  with 
sixty  fellow  passengers,  I  turned  my  back  upon  the 
crescent  city,  and  embarked  on  board  the  Steam  Ship 
Alabama,  Captain  Windle,  bound  from  New  Orleans  to 
Havana.     Many  of  our  number,  like  myself,  were  in 


24  COMPAGNONS    DE    VOYAGE. 

pursuit  of  health  and  pleasure,  some  were  braving  the 
dangers  and  enduring  the  privations  of  the  passage,  for 
the  purpose  of  amassing  wealth  in  the  sugar  and  coffee 
trade ;  and  others  were  seeking,  what  they  probably 
will  never  find  this  side  the  grave,  a  happier  home 
than  the  one  they  were  leaving  behind  them. 

With  a  variety  of  humors,  but  for  the  most  part  with 
light  hearts,  we  committed  ourselves  to  the  mercy  of  a 
kind  Providence,  a  capricious  element,  and  a  competent 
and  gentlemanly  captain ;  and,  setting  aside  such  regrets 
as  the  sensitive  mind  cannot  but  indulge,  in  bidding 
adieu  to  the  land  of  its  birth,  the  companions  of  youth, 
and  the  faithful  friends  of  after  years,  to  visit  distant 
and  dangerous  regions,  to  invite  disease  and  brave 
death  in  many  forms,  we  were  probably  as  happy  and 
merry  a  company  as  ever  pursued  their  trackless  path 
over  the  bounding  deep.  Our  ship  and  its  regula- 
tions were  unexceptionable,  our  table  was  sumptu- 
ously spread,  and  the  weather,  all  that  the  most  fas- 
tidious invalid  could  desire. 

To  the  above  description  of  our  company,  I  ought, 
perhaps,  to  make  an  exception  in  favor  of  a  few  pro- 
fessional grumblers  from  our  fatherland.  "  Those 
John  Bulls  "  of  our  company,  ceased  not  their  murmur- 
ings  and  repinings,  until  the  recollection  of  imaginary 
wrongs,  was  swallowed  up  in  the  experience  of  real 
and  substantial  suffering,  in  the  land  of  their  glorious 
anticipations.  But  we  must  not  marvel  at,  or  find  fault 
with,  the  redeeming  trait  of  British  character.  It  has 
long  been  universally  admitted  that  John  Bull  is  a 
grumbler.  Whether  it  is  a  "  streak  in  the  blood,"  a 
universal  family  characteristic,  or  a  matter  of  national 


GRUMBLERS  AND  GRUMBLING.  25 

education,  I  know  not ;  but  it  certainly  belongs  to  the 
species,  as  truly  and  distinctively  as  a  light  heart  and  a 
gay  deportment  do,  to  their  neighbors  on  the  other  side 
of  the  channel.  It  matters  not  whether  you  speak  of 
the  King  or  the  Queen,  the  Royal  Patronage  or  the 
doings  of  Parliament,  of  England,  or  France,  or  the 
moon,  he  is  always  ready  with  a  loud  and  argument- 
ative complaint,  drawn  from  his  own  experience.  If 
you  sympathize  with  him,  well ;  if  not,  his  indifference 
to  your  regard  will  certainly  match  your  stoicism. 
Talk  to  him  about  Church  affairs ;  and,  in  all  proba- 
bility, he  will  find  a  "true  bill"  against  every  Ecclesias- 
tical officer,  from  his  Grace  down  to  the  humblest  sub- 
ordinate. Still,  if  it  be  a  redeeming  trait,  why  should 
we  not  respect  it  as  such  ?  True,  it  does  not  sound 
well,  to  hear  one  speak  in  terms  of  approbation  respect- 
ing a  grumbler.  But  surely,  it  must  be  simply  because 
we  are  not  accustomed  to  view  this  character  in  its 
proper  light.  A  popular  English  writer  observes,  that 
"  it  is  probably  this  harsh  and  stubborn  but  honest  pro- 
pensity, which  forms  the  bulwark  of  British  grandeur 
abroad,  and  of  British  freedom  at  home.  In  short,  it  is 
this,  more  than  any  thing  else,  which  has  contributed 
to  make,  and  still  contributes  to  keep  England  what 
it  is."  No — it  will  never  answer  to  make  war  upon  a 
character  like  that  of  Bull.  We  may  occasionally  intro- 
duce him  to  the  reader,  but  it  shall  be  with  a  just  appre- 
ciation of  his  imprint,  and  a  profound  regard  for  his 
material  substance. 

After  sixty  hours  delightful  sail,  we  passed  the  cele- 
brated castle  of  the  Moro,  and  entered  the  harbor  of 
Havana.     Contrary  to  our  expectations,  we  were  per- 

3 


26  HAVANA. ITS    HARBOR. 

mitted  to  land  with  but  little  delay  or  inconvenience, 
except  that  which  arose  from  "  Elnorte,"  or  a  dry  norther, 
which  was  blowing  when  we  arrived,  and  rendered  our 
landing  a  little  uncomfortable.  The  thermometer  stood 
at  70°,  and  the  "natives"  were  shivering  under  the 
severity  of  the  cold  ! 

The  traveller,  visiting  this  Island,  should  furnish 
himself  with  a  passport,  issued  or  verified  by  the 
Spanish  Consul,  at  the  port  from  which  he  embarks. 
When  furnished  with  this  indispensable  credential,  if 
he  pay  a  strict  regard  to  the  laws  of  the  island,  little 
difficulty  is  to  be  apprehended ;  but,  neglecting  this,  he 
will  be  subject  to  fines  and  the  most  vexatious  delays  ; 
and,  probably,  he  will  be  prevented  from  landing. 
Strangers  proceeding  into  the  interior,  for  a  period  not 
exceeding  four  months,  must  also  be  prepared  with  a 
license  from  the  Governor  to  that  effect,  countersigned 
by  the  Consul  of  the  nation  to  which  he  belongs.  This 
requisition  is  undoubtedly  made  upon  the  unsuspecting 
traveller,  in  consequence  of  impositions  practiced  by 
foreigners,  during  the  recent  difficulties  which  have 
taken  place  in  Cuba.  Thus  will  undisguising  honesty 
ever  suffer  in  the  faults  of  a  common  humanity. 

The  harbor  of  Havana  is  one  of  the  best  in  the 
world.  The  entrance  into  it  is  by  a  narrow  channel, 
admitting  only  one  vessel  at  a  time,  while  its  capacious 
basin  within,  is  capable  of  containing  more  than  a 
thousand  ships.  The  view  of  the  harbor,  as  you  ap- 
proach it  from  without,  with  its  forest  of  masts,  and 
the  antique  looking  buildings  and  towers  of  the  city, 
contrasting  powerfully  with  the  luxuriant  verdure  of 
the  hills  in  the  back-ground,  is  scarcely  second  to  any 


FORTIFICATIONS. 


27 


in  the  world,  in  panoramic  beauty  and  effect ;  while 
the  view  sea-ward,  after  you  enter  the  sheltered  bay, 
the  waters  of  the  Gulf  Stream  lashing  the  very  posts 
of  the  narrow  gateway  by  which  you  came  in,  presents 
one  of  those  bold  and  striking  contrasts,  which  the  eye 
can  take  in,  and  the  mind  appreciate,  but  which  no 
pencil  can  pourtray,  no  pen  describe. 


MORO    CAST.LE. 


The  celebrated  Moro,  resting  upon  its  craggy  emi- 
nence, frowns  over  the  narrow  inlet.  The  Cabanas 
crowning  every  summit  of  the  hills  opposite  the  city,  is 
a  continuous  range  of  fortifications  of  great  extent,  from 
whose  outer  parapet,  elevated  at  least  a  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  a  most  commanding 
view  of  the  city  and  its  beautiful  environs  is  obtained. 
These  fortifications  are  said  to  have  cost  forty  millions 
of  dollars.  Within  a  mile  on  the  opposite  shore  from 
the  Moro,  is  still  another  fortress,  so  situated  upon 
a  considerable  height,  that  its  batteries  could  easily 


28  THE  CITY,  ITS  STREETS  AND  HOUSES. 

sweep  the  whole  space  between.  Looking  down  from 
these  frowning  battlements  upon  the  busy  scene  below, 
I  was  struck  with  the  variety  of  flags,  from  almost 
every  nation  under  heaven,  blending  their  various  hues 
and  curious  devices,  amid  the  thick  forest  of  masts  that 
lay  at  my  feet.  But  of  all  the  gay  and  flaunting 
streamers  that  waved  proudly  in  the  morning  breeze, 
the  stripes  and  stars,  the  ensign  of  freedom,  the  pride 
of  my  own  green  forest  land,  appeared  always  most 
conspicuous. 

The  city  of  Havana  stands  on  a  plain,  on  the  west 
side  of  the  harbor,  but  is  gradually,  with  its  continually 
increasing  population,  stretching  itself  up  into  the 
bosom  of  the  beautifully  verdant  hills  by  which  it  is 
surrounded.  Its  general  appearance  is  that  of  a  pro- 
vincial capital  of  Spain.  There  is  an  air  of  antiquity 
about  this,  and  the  cities  of  Mexico,  which  has  no 
similitude  in  the  United  States.  The  streets,  which 
are  straight  and  at  right  angles  to  each  other,  are  Mc- 
Adamized,  and,  in  good  weather,  are  remarkably  clean ; 
but,  during  the  rainy  season,  they  become  almost 
impassable.  They  are  also  very  narrow,  and  without 
any  side  walks  for  the  foot  passenger.  The  houses, 
many  of  which  are  one  story  high,  with  flat  roofs,  have 
a  general  air  of  neatness  and  comfort.  They  are 
usually  either  white  or  yellow  washed.  Many  of  them 
are  of  the  old  Moorish  style  of  architecture,  dark  and 
sombre,  as  the  ages  to  which  it  traces  back  its  origin. 
The  doors  and  windows  reach  from  the  ceiling  to  the 
floor,  and  would  give  an  airy  and  agreeable  aspect  to 
the  buildings,  were  it  not  for  their  massive  walls,  and 
the  iron  gratings  to  the  windows,  which  remind  one  too 


AN  AMERICAN  SAILOR.  29 

strongly  of  the  prison's  gloom.  It  is  here,  however, 
that  the  females  enjoy  the  luxury  of  the  air,  and  display 
their  charms.  They  are  never  seen  walking  in  the 
streets.  Those  who  cannot  afford  the  expense  of  a 
volante,  arraying  themselves  with  the  same  care  as 
they  would  for  a  promenade,  or  a  party,  may  be  seen 
daily  peering  through  their  grated  windows  upon  the 
passers  by,  and  holding  familiar  conversation  with  their 
friends  and  acquaintances  in  the  streets.  Many  a 
bright  lustrous  eye,  and  fairy-like  foot,  have  I  thus 
seen  through  the  wires  of  her  cheerful  cage,  which 
were  scarcely  ever  seen  beyond  it. 

A  characteristic  anecdote  is  related  of  an  American 
sailor,  who  saw  several  ladies  looking  out  upon  the 
street,  through  their  grated  parlor  windows.  Supposing 
them  to  be  prisoners,  and  sympathizing  with  their  for- 
lorn condition,  he  told  them  to  keep  up  a  good  heart, — 
and  then,  after  observing  that  he  had  been  in  limbo 
himself,  he  threw  them  a  dollar,  to  the  great  amuse- 
ment of  the  spectators,  who  understood  the  position  of 
the  inmates. 

But  notwithstanding  the  gloomy  appearance  of  the 
windows,  the  houses  are  well  ventilated  by  interior 
courts,  which  permit  a  free  circulation  of  air, — a  com- 
modity which  is  very  desirable  in  these  latitudes.  The 
floors  are  of  flat  stone  or  brick,  the  walls  stuccoed  or 
painted, — and  the  traveller,  judging  from  the  external 
appearance,  is  led  to  imagine  that  within,  every  desira- 
ble accommodation  may  be  obtained.  In  this,  however, 
he  is  disappointed,  and  must  content  himself  with  some 
privations.  Huge  door- ways  and  windows,  a  spacious 
saloon,  together  with  solidity  of  construction,  are  the 


30  SOCIETY THE    NOBILITY. 

chief  objects  to  which  the  architect  in  this  country 
seems  to  direct  his  attention.  The  main  entrance 
answers  the  purpose  of  a  coach-house ;  and  it  is  no 
uncommon  thing  to  see  the  volantes  occupying  a  very 
considerable  portion  of  the  parlor.  The  amount  de- 
manded for  rent,  in  proportion  to  similar  accommoda- 
tions in  other  cities,  is  exorbitant.  The  present  popula- 
tion of  the  city  and  its  suburbs,  is  about  185,000. 

Society  in  Havana, — and  it  is  the  same  throughout 
the  island — is  a  singular  anomaly  to  the  stranger.  It 
is  neither  that  of  the  city,  nor  that  of  the  country  alone 
— neither  national,  oecumenical,  nor  provincial,  nor  a 
mixture  of  all.  There  are  three  distinct  classes  of 
what  may  be  termed  respectable  society — the  Spanish, 
the  Creole,  and  the  foreigner.  Among  the  former,  with 
here  and  there  an  individual  of  the  second  grade,  there 
are  some  who  have  purchased  titles  of  nobility,  at 
prices  varying  from  thirty  to  fifty  thousand  dollars. 
They  are  often  distinguished  by  the  ludicrous  sobriquet 
of  "  sugar  noblemen,"  most  of  them  having  acquired 
their  titles  from  the  proceeds  of  their  sugar  plantations. 
Besides  these,  there  are  some  few  who  have  obtained 
the  coveted  distinction,  as  a  reward  for  military  services. 
Though  more  honorably  obtained,  the  title  is  of  less 
value  to  such,  as  they  rarely  have  the  means  to  support 
the  style,  which  usually  accompanies  the  rank.  There 
are  some  sixty  or  seventy  persons  in  the  island,  thus 
distinguished,  who  cannot,  as  a  matter  of  course,  con- 
descend to  associate  in  common,  with  the  untitled  grades 
below  them.  Neither  do  they  maintain  any  social 
relations  among  themselves.  The  proud  Spaniard 
despises  the  creole,  and,  titled  or  plebeian,  will  have 


BARRIERS  TO  SOCIAL   INTERCOURSE.  31 

nothing  to  do  with  him,  beyond  the  necessary  courtesies 
of  business.  Then  the  "nobleman,"  who  has  worn 
his  dearly  bought  honors  twenty  years,  esteems  it  quite 
beneath  his  dignity  to  exchange  civilities  with  those 
novi  homines,  who  are  but  ten  years  removed  from  the 
vulgar  atmosphere  of  common  life ; — while  he,  in  his 
turn,  is  quite  too  green  to  stand  on  a  par  with  those, 
whose  ancestors,  for  two  or  three  generations  back, 
have  been  known  to  fame. 

The  same  impassable  distinctions  exist  among  the 
plebeian  grades  of  society.  The  Spaniard  hates  the 
foreign  resident,  and  will  have  no  intercourse  with  him, 
except  so  far  as  his  interest,  in  the  ordinary  transactions 
of  business,  requires.  He  despises  the  Creole,  who,  in 
his  turn,  hates  the  Spaniard,  and  is  jealous  of  the  for- 
eigner. The  result  of  this  position  of  these  antagonist 
elements  of  society  is,  that  there  is  no  such  thing  as 
general  social  intercourse  among  the  inhabitants  of 
Cuba,  and  scarcely  any  chance  at  all  for  the  stranger, 
to  be  introduced  to  any  society  but  that  of  the  foreign 
residents.  As  these  are  from  almost  all  nations,  the 
range,  for  any  particular  one,  is  necessarily  small. 

This  being  the  case,  with  the  constitution  of  society 
in  Cuba,  it  would  be  extremely  difficult  for  a  temporary 
sojourner  correctly  to  delineate  the  character  of  its 
inhabitants,  perhaps,  even  unfair  to  attempt  it.  He  can 
never  see  them,  as  they  see  each  other.  He  can  rarely 
learn,  from  his  personal  observation,  any  thing  of 
society,  as  a  whole,  though  he  may  often  have  favora- 
ble opportunities  of  becoming  favorably  acquainted 
with  individual  families.  And  here,  two  remarks  seem 
to  me  to  be   demanded,   before   leaving  this   subject. 


32  INDIVIDUAL  HOSPITALITY. 

First,  that  in  all  cases  where  such  marked  distinctions, 
and  deeply  rooted  jealousies  exist  between  the  different 
sections  of  society,  the  open  slanders  and  covert  insin- 
uations of  the  one  against  the  other,  should  be  received 
with  the  most  liberal  allowances  for  prejudice.  Envy 
and  contempt  are,  by  their  very  natures,  evil-eyed, 
uncharitable,  and  arrant  liars.  They  see  through  a 
distorted  medium.  They  judge  with  one  ear  always 
closed.  And  he  who  receives  their  decisions  as  law 
will  generally  abuse  his  own  common  sense  and  good 
nature,  by  condemning  the  innocent  unheard.  Sec- 
ondly, if  the  society  which  Cuba  might  enjoy  may  be 
judged  of  by  the  known  urbanity  and  hospitality  of 
individuals,  it  might  become,  by  the  breaking  down  of 
these  artificial  barriers,  the  very  paradise  of  patriarchal 
life.  I  know  of  nothing  in  the  world  to  compare  with 
the  free,  open-handed,  whole-souled  hospitality  which 
the  merchant,  or  planter,  of  whatever  grade,  lavishes 
upon  those,  who  are  commended  to  his  regard  by  a 
respectable  introduction  from  abroad.  With  such  a 
passport,  he  is  no  longer  a  stranger,  but  a  brother,  and 
it  is  the  fault  of  his  own  heart  if  he  is  not  as  much  at 
home  in  the  family,  and  on  the  estate  of  his  friend,  as 
if  it  were  his  own.  There  is  nothing  forced,  nothing 
constrained  in  all  this.  It  is  evidently  natural,  hearty, 
and  sincere,  and  you  cannot  partake  of  it,  without  feel- 
ing, however  modest  you  may  be,  that  you  are  confer- 
ring, rather  than  receiving  a  favor.  This  remark  may 
be  applied,  with  almost  equal  force,  to  many  of  the 
planters  in  our  Southern  states,  and  in  the  other  West 
India  Islands.  Many  and  many  are  the  invalid  wan- 
derers from  home,  who  have  known  and  felt  it,  like 


LOVE  OF  SHOW.  33 

gleams  of  sunshine  in  their  weary  pilgrimage,  whose 
hearts  will  gratefully  respond  to  all  that  I  have  said. 
What  a  pity  then,  that  such  noble  elements  should 
always  remain  in  antagonism  to  each  other,  instead  of 
amalgamating  into  one  harmonious  confraternity,  mutu- 
ally blessing  and  being  blessed,  in  all  the  sweet  human- 
izing interchanges  of  social  life. 

Much  as  the  inferior  grades  of  society  envy  and  dis- 
like those  above  them,  they  all  display  the  same  love 
of  show,  the  same  passion  for  titles,  trappings,  and 
badges  of  honor,  whether  civil  or  military,  whenever 
they  come  within  their  reach.  And  when  attained, 
either  temporarily  or  permanently,  their  fortunate  pos- 
sessors do  not  fail  to  look  down  on  those  beneath  them, 
with  the  same  supercilious  pride  and  self  gratulation, 
which  they  so  recently  condemned  in  others.  I  saw 
some  striking,  and  to  me,  exceedingly  ludicrous  devel- 
opments of  this  trait  of  character,  during  the  progress 
of  a  festival  celebration,  in  honor  of  the  day,  when 
queen  Isabel  was  declared  of  age,  and  all  the  military 
and  civil  powers  swore  allegiance  to  her  Catholic 
Majesty.  The  ceremonies  of  this  celebration  were  con- 
tinued through  three  days.  The  Plaza,  and  the  quar- 
ters of  the  military,  were  splendidly  illuminated  with 
variegated  lamps,  and  the  buildings,  public  and  private, 
were  hung  with  tapestry  and  paintings,  interspersed 
with  small  brilliant  lights.  Business  was  entirely  sus- 
pended, and  the  streets  were  thronged  with  gay  excited 
multitudes,  arrayed  with  every  species  of  finery,  and 
decked  with  every  ornament  of  distinction,  which  their 
circumstances,  or  position  in  society,  Avould  allow.  Re- 
views of  troops,  and  sham  fights  on  land  and  sea,  in 


34        NEATNESS  OF  THE  HABANEROS. 

which  the  Governor,  and  all  the  high  dignitaries  of  the 
island,  took  part,  occupied  a  portion  of  the  time,  the 
remainder  being  filled  up  with  balls,  masquerades,  and 
a  round  of  other  amusements. 

I  do  not  know  that  it  has  been  remarked  by  any 
other  writer,  but  I  observed  it  so  often  as  to  satisfy 
myself  that  it  was  a  general  characteristic  of  the  better 
classes  of  the  Habaneros,  that  they  have  a  singular 
antipathy  to  water.  After  a  shower  of  rain,  they  are 
seldom  seen  in  the  streets,  except  in  their  volantes,  till 
they  have  had  time  to  become  perfectly  dry.  When 
necessity  compels  them  to  appear,  they  walk  with  the 
peculiar  circumspection  of  a  cat,  picking  their  way  with 
a  care  and  timidity  that  often  seems  highly  ludicrous. 
They  are  neat  and  cleanly  in  their  persons,  almost  to 
a  fault,  and  it  is  the  fear  of  contracting  the  slightest  soil 
upon  their  dress,  that  induces  this  scrupulous  nicety  in 
"  taking  heed  to  their  steps." 


■0-< 


CHAPTER   II. 

PUBLIC  BUILDINGS  OF  HAVANA,  AND   THE  TOMB  OF  COLUMBUS. 

The  Tacon  Theatre.— The  Fish  Market.— Its  Proprietor.— The 
Cathedral.- — Its  adornments. — View  of  Romanism. — Infidel- 
ity.— The  Tomb  of  Columbus. — The  Inscription. — Reflec- 
tions suggested  by  it.  The  Removal  of  his  Remains.  Mr. 
Irving's  eloquent  reflections. — A  misplaced  Monument. — 
Plaza  de  Armas. 

Among  the  public  buildings  in  Havana,  there  are  many- 
worthy  of  a  particular  description.  Passing  over  the 
Governor's  House,  the  Intendencia,  the  Lunatic  Asylum, 
Hospitals,  etc.,  to  which  I  had  not  time  to  give  a  per- 
sonal inspection,  I  shall  notice  only  the  Tacon  Theatre, 
the  Fish  Market,  and  the  Cathedral. 

The  Tacon  Theatre  is  a  splendid  edifice,  and  is  said 
to  be  capable  of  containing  four  or  five  thousand  spec- 
tators. It  has  even  been  stated,  that,  at  the  recent  mas- 
querade ball  given  there,  no  less  than  seven  thousand 
were  assembled  within  its  walls.  This  building  was 
erected  by  an  individual,  at  an  expense  of  two  hundred 
thousand  dollars.  It  contains  three  tiers  of  boxes,  two 
galleries,  and  a  pit,  besides  saloons,  coffee-rooms,  offices, 
etc.,  etc.     A  trellis  of  gilded  iron,  by  which  the  boxes 


36  THE  FISH  MARKET. 

are  balustraded,  imparts  to  the  house  an  unusually  gay 
and  airy  appearance.  The  pit  is  arranged  with  seats 
resembling  arm-chairs,  neatly  covered,  and  comfortably 
cushioned.  The  Habaneros  are  a  theatre-going  people, 
and  bestow  a  liberal  patronage  upon  any  company  that 
is  worthy  of  it. 

The  Fish  Market  is  an  object  of  no  little  interest  in 
Havana,  not  only  for  the  rich  variety  of  beautiful  fishes 
that  usually  decorate  its  long  marble  table,  but  for  the 
place  itself,  and  its  history.  It  was  built  during  the 
administration  of  Tacon,  by  a  Mr.  Marti,  who,  for  a 
service  rendered  the  government,  in  detecting  a  gang 
of  smugglers,  with  whom  it  has  been  suspected  he  was 
too  well  acquainted,  was  permitted  to  monopolize  the 
sale  of  fish  in  the  city  for  twenty  years.  Having  the 
prices  at  his  own  control,  he  has  made  an  exceedingly 
profitable  business  of  it,  and  is  now  one  of  the  rich 
men  of  the  island.  He  is  the  sole  proprietor  of  the 
Tacon  Theatre,  which  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the 
world,  and  which  has  also  the  privilege  of  a  twenty 
years  monopoly,  without  competition  from  any  rival 
establishment. 

The  Fish  Market  is  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in 
length,  with  one  marble  table  extending  from  end  to  end, 
the  roof  supported  by  a  series  of  arches,  resting  upon 
plain  pillars.  It  is  open  on  one  side  to  the  street,  and 
on  the  other  to  the  harbor.  It  is  consequently  well 
ventilated  and  airy.  It  is  the  neatest  and  most  inviting 
establishment  of  the  kind  that  I  have  ever  seen  in  any 
country ;  and  no  person  should  visit  Havana,  without 
paying  his  respects  to  it. 

The  Cathedral  is  a  massive  building,  constructed  in 


THE  CATHEDRAL.  37 

the  ecclesiastical  style  of  the  fifteenth  century.  It  is 
situated  in  the  oldest  and  least  populous  part  of  the 
city,  near  the  Fish  Market,  and  toward  the  entrance  of 
the  port.  It  is  a  gloomy,  heavy  looking  pile,  with  little 
pretensions  to  architectural  taste  and  beauty,  in  its 
exterior,  though  the  interior  is  considered  very  beautiful. 
It  is  built  of  the  common  coral  rock  of  that  neighbor- 
hood, which  is  soft  and  easily  worked,  when  first  quar- 
ried, but  becomes  hard  by  exposure  to  the  atmosphere. 
It  is  of  a  yellowish  white  color,  and  somewhat  smooth 
when  laid  up,  but  assumes  in  time  a  dark,  dingy  hue, 
and  undergoes  a  slight  disintegration  on  its  surface, 
which  gives  it  the  appearance  of  premature  age  and 
decay. 

In  the  interior,  two  ranges  of  massive  columns  sup- 
port the  ceiling,  which  is  high,  and  decorated  with 
many  colors  in  arabesque,  with  figures  in  fresco.  The 
sides  are  filled,  as  is  usual  in  Roman  Catholic  churches, 
with  the  shrines  of  various  Saints,  among  which,  that 
of  St.  Christoval,  the  patron  of  the  city,  is  conspicuous. 
The  paintings  are  numerous ;  and  some  of  them,  the 
works  of  no  ungifted  pencils,  are  well  worthy  of  a 
second  look. 

The  shrines  display  less  of  gilding  and  glitter  than 
is  usual  in  other  places.  They  are  all  of  one  style  of 
architecture,  simple  and  unpretending ;  and  the  effect 
of  the  whole  is  decidedly  pleasing,  if  not  imposing. 
This  effect  is  somewhat  heightened  by  the  dim,  uncer- 
tain light  which  pervades  the  building.  The  windows 
are  small  and  high  up  towards  the  ceiling,  and  cannot 
admit  the  broad  glare  of  day,  to  disturb  the  solemn  and 
gloomy  grandeur  of  the  place  of  prayer. 

4 


38  DECLINE  OF  ROMANISM. 

It  has  been  observed  by  residents  as  well  as  by 
strangers,  that  the  attendance  on  the  masses  and  other 
ceremonies  of  the  Roman  church,  has  greatly  dimin- 
ished within  a  few  late  years.  I  have  often  seen  nearly 
as  many  officiating  priests,  as  worshippers,  at  matins 
and  vespers.  They  are  attended,  as  in  all  other  places, 
chiefly  by  women,  and  not,  as  the  romances  of  the 
olden  time  would  have  us  suppose  it  once  was,  by  the 
young,  the  beautiful,  the  warm-hearted  and  enthusi- 
astic, but  by  the  old  and  ugly,  so  that  a  looker-on  might 
be  led  to  imagine  that  the  holy  place  was  only  a  dernier 
resort,  and  refuge  for  those,  for  whom  the  world  had 
lost  its  charms.  That  there  were  some  exceptions, 
however,  to  this  remark,  my  memory  and  my  heart 
must  bear  witness — some,  whose  graceful,  voluptuous 
figures,  bent  down  before  their  shrines,  their  beaming 
faces  and  keen  black  eyes  scarce  hidden  by  their  man- 
tillas, might  have  furnished  a  more  stoical  heart  than 
mine  with  a  very  plausible  excuse  for  paying  homage 
to  them,  rather  than  to  the  saints,  before  whose  shrines 
they  were  kneeling. 

In  the  various  religious  orders  of  this  church,  there 
has  been  a  corresponding  diminution  of  numbers  and 
zeal.  The  convents  of  friars,  in  Havana,  have  been 
much  reduced,  and  but  few  young  men  are  found,  who 
are  disposed  to  join  them ;  so  that,  in  another  generation, 
they  may  become  quite  extinct,  unless  their  numbers 
are  replenished  from  the  mother  country.  The  Gov- 
ernment has  taken  possession  of  their  buildings,  and 
converted  them  to  other  uses,  and  pensioned  off  their 
inmates,  allowing  a  premium  to  those  who  would  quit 
the  monastic  life,  and  engage  in  secular  business. 


THE  TOMB  OP  COLUMBUS.  39 

Among  the  people,  infidelity  seems  to  have  taken 
the  place  of  the  old  superstition.  Their  holy-days  are 
still  kept  up,  because  they  love  the  excitement  and 
revelry,  to  which  they  have  been  accustomed.  Their 
frequent  recurrence  is  a  great  annoyance  to  those  who 
have  business  at  the  Custom  House,  and  other  public 
offices,  while  they  add  nothing  to  the  religious  or  moral 
aspect  of  the  place.  Sunday  is  distinguished  from  the 
other  days  of  the  week,  only  by  the  increase  of  revelry, 
cock-fighting,  gambling,  and  every  other  species  of 
unholy  employment.  These  are  certainly  no  improve- 
ment upon  the  customs  of  other  days,  for  blind  super- 
stition is  better  than  profaneness,  and  ignorance  than 
open  vice.  But,  in  one  respect,  the  protestant  sojourner 
in  Havana  may  feel  and  acknowledge  that  times  have 
changed  for  the  better,  since  he  is  not  liable  now,  as 
formerly,  to  be  knocked  down  in  the  street,  or  impri- 
soned, for  refusing  to  kneel  in  the  dirt,  when  "the  host" 
was  passing. 

In  this  Cathedral,  on  the  right  side  of  the  great  altar, 
is  "  The  Tomb  of  Columbus."  A  small  recess  made 
in  the  wall  to  receive  the  bones,  is  covered  with  a  mar- 
ble tablet  about  three  feet  in  length.  Upon  the  face 
of  this  is  sculptured,  in  bold  relief,  the  portrait  of  the 
great  discoverer,  with  his  right  hand  resting  upon 
a  globe.  Under  the  portrait,  various  naval  imple- 
ments are  represented,  with  the  following  inscription 
in  Spanish. 

;  O  Restos  e  Imagen  del  grande  Colon ! 
Mil  siglos  durad  guardados  en  la  Orna, 
Y  en  la  remembranza  de  nuestra  Nacion. 


40  THE  INSCRIPTION. 

On  the  left  side  of  the  high  Altar,  opposite  the  tomb, 
hangs  a  small  painting,  representing  a  number  of 
priests  performing  some  religious  ceremony.  It  is 
very  indifferent  as  a  work  of  art,  but  possesses  a  pecu- 
liar value  and  interest,  as  having  been  the  constant 
cabin  companion  of  Columbus,  in  all  his  eventful 
voyages,  a  fact  which  is  recorded  in  an  inscription 
on  a  brass  plate,  attached  to  the  picture. 

The  Lines  on  the  tablet  may  be  thus  translated  into 
English. 

O  Remains  and  Image  of  the  great  Columbus  ! 

A  thousand  ages  may  you  endure,  guarded  in  this  Urn ; 

And  in  the  remembrance  of  our  Nation. 

Such  is  the  sentiment  inscribed  on  the  last  resting 
place  of  the  ashes  of  the  discoverer  of  a  world.  An 
inscription  worthy  of  its  place,  bating  the  arrogance 
and  selfishness  of  the  last  line,  which  would  claim 
for  a  single  nation,  that  which  belongs  as  a  common 
inheritance  to  the  world.  It  is  a  pardonable  assump- 
tion however ;  for,  where  is  the  nation,  under  the  face 
of  heaven,  that  would  not,  if  it  could,  monopolize  the 
glory  of  such  a  name  ? 

The  glory  of  a  name  !  Alas  !  that  those  who  win, 
are  so  seldom  allowed  to  wear  it !  Through  toil  and 
struggle,  through  poverty  and  want,  through  crushing 
care  and  heart-rending  disappointments,  through  seas 
of  fire  and  blood,  and  perhaps  through  unrelenting  per- 
secution, contumely  and  reproach,  they  climb  to  some 
proud  pinnacle,  from  which  even  the  ingratitude  and 
injustice  of  a  heartless  world  cannot  bring  them  down ; 
and  there,  alone,  deserted  and  pointed  at,  like  an  eagle 


REMOVAL  OF  HIS  REMAINS.  41 

entangled  in  his  mountain  eyrie,  amid  the  screams  and 
hootings  of  inferior  birds,  they  die, — bequeathing  their 
greatness  to  the  world,  leaving  upon  the  generation 
around  them  a  debt  of  unacknowledged  obligation, 
which  after  ages  and  distant  and  unborn  nations,  shall 
contend  for  the  honor  of  assuming  forever.  The  glory 
of  a  name  !  What  a  miserable  requital  for  the  cruel 
neglect  and  iron  injustice,  which  repaid  the  years  of 
suffering  and  self-sacrifice,  by  which  it  was  earned ! 

Columbus  died  at  Valladolid,  on  the  20th  of  May,  1506, 
aged  70  years.  His  body  was  deposited  in  the  convent  of 
St.  Francisco,  and  his  funeral  obsequies  were  celebrated 
with  great  pomp,  in  the  parochial  church  of  Santa  Maria 
de  la  Antigua.  In  1513,  his  remains  were  removed  to 
Seville,  and  deposited,  with  those  of  his  son,  and  suc- 
cessor, Don  Diego,  in  the  chapel  of  Santo  Christo, 
belonging  to  the  Carthusian  Monastery  of  Las  Cuevas. 
In  1536,  the  bodies  of  Columbus  and  his  son  were  both 
removed  to  the  island  of  Hispaniola,  which  had  been 
the  centre  and  seat  of  his  vice-royal  government  in  this 
western  world,  and  interred  in  the  principal  chapel  of 
the  Cathedral  of  the  -city  of  San  Domingo.  But  even 
here,  they  did  not  rest  in  quiet.  By  the  treaty  of  peace 
in  1795,  Hispaniola,  with  other  Spanish  possessions  in 
these  waters,  passed  into  the  hands  of  France.  With 
a  feeling  highly  honorable  to  the  nation,  and  to  those 
who  conducted  the  negotiations,  the  Spanish  officers 
requested  and  obtained  leave  to  translate  the  ashes  of 
the  illustrious  hero  to  Cuba. 

The  ceremonies  of  this  last  burial  were  exceedingly 
magnificent  and  imposing,  such  as  have  rarely  been 
rendered  to  the  dust  of  the  proudest  monarchs  on  earth, 


42  RECEPTION     AT  HAVANA. 

immediately  after  their  decease,  and  much  less  after  a 
lapse  of  almost  three  centuries.  On  the  arrival  of  the 
San  Lorenzo  in  the  harbor  of  Havana,  on  the  15th  of 
January,  1796,  the  whole  population  assembled  to  do 
honor  to  the  occasion,  the  ecclesiastical,  civil,  and  mili- 
tary bodies  vying  with  each  other  in  showing  respect  to 
the  sacred  relics.  On  the  19th,  every  thing  being  in 
readiness  for  their  reception,  a  procession  of  boats  and 
barges,  three  abreast,  all  habited  in  mourning,  with  muf- 
fled oars,  moved  solemnly  and  silently  from  the  ship  to 
the  mole.  The  barge  occupying  the  centre  of  these 
lines,  bore  a  coffin,  covered  with  a  pall  of  black  velvet, 
ornamented  with  fringes  and  tassels  of  gold,  and 
guarded  by  a  company  of  marines  in  mourning.  It 
was  brought  on  shore  by  the  captains  of  the  vessels, 
and  delivered  to  the  authorities.  Conveyed  to  the 
Plaza  de  Armas,  in  solemn  procession,  it  was  placed  in 
an  ebony  sarcophagus,  made  in  the  form  of  a  throne, 
elaborately  carved  and  gilded.  This  was  supported  on 
a  high  bier,  richly  covered  with  black  velvet,  forty-two 
wax  candles  burning  around  it. 

In  this  position,  the  coffin  was  opened  in  the  presence 
of  the  Governor,  the  Captain  General,  and  the  Com- 
mander of  the  royal  marines.  A  leaden  chest,  a  foot 
and  a  half  square,  by  one  foot  in  height,  was  found 
within.  On  opening  this  chest,  a  small  piece  of  bone 
and  a  quantity  of  dust  were  seen,  which  was  all  that 
remained  of  the  great  Columbus.  These  were  form- 
ally, and  with  great  solemnity  pronounced  to  be  the 
remains  of  the  "  incomparable  Almirante  Christoval 
Colon"  All  was  then  carefully  closed  up,  and  replaced 
in  the  ebony  sarcophagus. 


HONORS  TO  THE  ILLUSTRIOUS  DEAD.  43 

A  procession  was  then  formed  to  the  Cathedral,  in 
which  all  the  pomp  and  circumstance  of  a  military- 
parade,  and  the  solemn  and  imposing  grandeur  of  the 
ecclesiastical  ceremonial,  were  beautifully  and  harmo- 
niously blended  with  the  more  simple,  but  not  less 
heartfelt  demonstrations  of  the  civic  multitude — the 
air  waving  and  glittering  with  bamiers  of  eveiy  device, 
and  trembling  with  vollies  of  musketry,  and  the  ever 
returning  minute  guns  from  the  forts,  and  the  armed 
vessels  in  the  harbor.  The  pall  bearers  were  all  the 
chief  men  of  the  island,  who,  by  turns,  for  a  few 
moments  at  a  time,  held  the  golden  tassels  of  the  sar- 
cophagus. 

Arrived  at  the  Cathedral,  which  was  hung  in  black, 
and  carpeted  throughout,  while  the  massive  columns 
were  decorated  with  banners  infolded  with  black,  the 
sarcophagus  was  placed  on  a  stand,  under  a  splendid 
Ionic  pantheon,  forty  feet  high  by  fourteen  square, 
erected  under  the  dome  of  the  church,  for  the  temporary 
reception  of  these  remains.  The  architecture  and  dec- 
orations of  this  miniature  temple,  were  rich  and  beautiful 
in  the  extreme.  Sixteen  white  columns,  four  on  each 
side,  supported  a  splendidly  friezed  architrave  and  cor- 
nice, above  which,  on  each  side,  was  a  frontispiece, 
with  passages  in  the  life  of  Columbus  figured  in  bas- 
relief.  Above  this,  rising  out  of  the  dome  of  the  pan- 
theon, was  a  beautiful  obelisk.  The  pedestal  was 
ornamented  with  a  crown  of  laurels,  and  two  olive 
branches.  On  the  lower  part  of  the  obelisk  were  em- 
blazoned the  arms  of  Columbus,  accompanied  by  Time, 
with  his  hands  tied  behind  him — Death,  prostrate — and 
Fame,   proclaiming  the  hero  immortal  in  defiance  of 


J!?W 


44  MR.  irving's  reflections. 

Death  and  Time.  Other  emblematic  figures  occupied 
the  arches  of  the  dome. 

The  pantheon,  and  the  whole  Cathedral,  was  liter- 
ally a-blaze  with  the  light  of  wax  tapers,  several  hun- 
dred of  which  were  so  disposed  as  to  give  the  best  effect 
to  the  imposing  spectacle.  The  solemn  service  of  the 
dead  was  chanted,  mass  was  celebrated,  and  a  funeral 
oration  pronounced.  Then,  as  the  last  responses,  and 
the  pealing  anthem,  resounded  through  the  lofty  arches 
of  the  Cathedral,  the  coffin  was  removed  from  the 
Pantheon,  and  borne  by  the  Field  Marshal,  the  Inten- 
dente,  and  other  distinguished  functionaries,  to  its  des- 
tined resting  place  in  the  wall,  and  the  cavity  closed  by 
the  marble  slab,  which  I  have  already  described. 

"  When  we  read,"  says  the  eloquent  Mr.  Irving,  "  of 
the  remains  of  Columbus,  thus  conveyed  from  the  port 
of  St.  Domingo,  after  an  interval  of  nearly  three  hundred 
years,  as  sacred  national  reliques,  with  civic  and  mili- 
tary pomp,  and  high  religious  ceremonial ;  the  most 
dignified  and  illustrious  men  striving  who  should  most 
pay  them  reverence  ;  we  cannot  but  reflect,  that  it  was 
from  this  very  port  he  was  carried  off,  loaded  with  igno- 
minious chains,  blasted  apparently  in  fame  and  fortune, 
and  followed  by  the  revilings  of  the  rabble.  Such  hon- 
ors, it  is  true,  are  nothing  to  the  dead,  nor  can  they 
atone  to  the  heart,  now  dust  and  ashes,  for  all  the 
wrongs  and  sorrows  it  may  have  suffered :  but  they 
speak  volumes  of  comfort  to  the  illustrious,  yet  sland- 
ered and  persecuted  living,  showing  them  how  true 
merit  outlives  all  calumny,  and  receives  it  glorious 
reward  in  the  admiration  of  after  ages." 

Near  the  Quay,  in  front  of  the  Plaza  de  Armas,  is  a 


PLAZA  DE  ARMAS.  45 

plain  ecclesiastical  structure,  in  which  the  imposing 
ceremony  of  the  mass  is  occasionally  celebrated.  It  is 
intended  to  commemorate  the  landing  of  the  great  dis- 
coverer, and  the  inscription  upon  a  tablet  in  the  front  of 
the  building,  conveys  the  impression  that  it  was  erected 
on  the  very  spot  where  he  first  set  foot  upon  the  soil  of 
Cuba.  This,  however,  is  an  error.  Columbus  touched 
the  shore  of  Cuba,  at  a  point  which  he  named  Santa 
Catalina,  a  few  miles  west  of  Neuvitas  del  Principe, 
and  some  three  hundred  miles  east  of  Havana.  He 
proceeded  along  the  coast,  westward,  about  a  hundred 
miles,  to  the  Laguna  de  Moron,  and  then  returned.  He 
subsequently  explored  all  the  southern  coast  of  the 
island,  from  its  eastern  extremity  to  the  Bay  of  Cortes, 
within  fifty  miles  of  Cape  Antonio,  its  western  terminus. 
Had  he  continued  his  voyage  a  day  or  two  longer,  he 
would  doubtless  have  reached  Havana,  compassed  the 
island,  and  discovered  the  northern  continent. 

The  Plaza  de  Armas  is  beautifully  ornamented  with 
trees  and  fountains.  It  is  also  adorned  with  a  colossal 
statue  of  Ferdinand  VII. ;  and  during  the  evenings, 
when  the  scene  is  much  enlivened  by  the  fine  music  of 
the  military  bands  stationed  in  the  vicinity,  it  is  the 
general  resort  of  citizens  and  strangers ; — the  former  of 
whom  come  hither  to  enjoy  the  cheering  melody  of 
the  music  and  the  freshness  of  the  breeze, — the  latter, 
for  the  purpose  of  doing  homage  to  the  memory  of 
him  whose  footsteps  are  supposed  to  have  sanctified  the 
ground.  Here,  and  around  the  sepulchre  of  the  depart- 
ed, a  holy  reverence  seems  to  linger,  which  attracts  the 
visitor  as  to  "  pilgrim  shrines,"  before  which  he  bends 
with  respect  and  admiration. 


46 


REGLA. 


The  village  of  Regla,  one  of  the  suburbs  of  Havana, 
is  situated  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  harbor,  about  a 
mile  from  the  city,  and  having  constant  communication 
with  it,  by  means  of  a  ferry.  It  is  a  place  of  about  six 
thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  the  great  depot  of  the 
molasses  trade.  Immense  tanks  are  provided  to  receive 
the  molasses,  as  it  comes  in  from  the  neighboring  estates. 
I  say  the  neighboring  estates,  for  the  article  is  of  so 
little  value,  that  it  will  not  pay  the  expense  of  trans- 
portation from  any  considerable  distance;  and  very 
large  quantities  of  it  are  annually  thrown  away.  In 
some  places  you  may  see  the  ditches  by  the  road  side 
filled  with  it.  In  others,  the  liquid  is  given  to  any  who 
will  take  it  away,  though  in  doing  so,  they  are  expected  gj 
to  pay  something  more  than  its  real  value  for  the 
hogshead. 

The  greater  part  of  the  molasses  that  comes  to  Regla 
from  the  interior,  to  supply  the  export  trade  of  Havana, 
is  brought  in  five  gallon  kegs,  on  the  backs  of  the 
mules,  one  on  each  side,  after  the  manner  of  saddle-bags, 
or  panniers.  A  common  mule  load  is  four  or  six  kegs, 
equal  to  half,  or  two-thirds  of  a  barrel.  Large  quan- 
tities are  also  transported  in  lighters  from  all  the  smaller 
towns  on  the  coast,  much  of  it  coming  in  that  way  from 
a  distance  of  more  than  a  hundred  miles.  A  large  pro- 
portion of  the  article  shipped  from  this  port  hitherto, 
having  been  unfit  for  ordinary  domestic  uses,  and  suit- 
able only  for  the  distillery,  the  trade  in  it  has  been 
greatly  diminished  by  the  operation  of  the  mighty  Tem- 
perance reform,  which  has  blessed  so  large  a  portion  of 
our  favored  land.  I  have  not  the  means  at  hand  to 
show  the  precise  results;  but  will  venture   to  assert, 


GOING  TO  DECAY.  47 

from  personal  observation  and  knowledge  of  the  matter, 
that  the  exports  of  this  article  from  Cuba  to  this  coun- 
try, for  distilling  purposes,  have  fallen  off  more  than 
one  half  in  the  last  ten  years. 

The  concentration  of  this  once  active  and  lucrative 
traffic  at  Regla,  gave  it,  in  former  times,  the  aspect  of  a 
busy,  thriving  place.  Now,  it  looks  deserted  and  poor. 
It  was  formerly  one  of  the  many  resorts  of  the  pirates, 
robbers,  and  smugglers,  who  infested  all  the  avenues  to 
the  capital,  and  carried  on  their  business  as  a  regular 
branch  of  trade,  under  the  very  walls  of  the  city,  and 
in  full  view  of  the  custom-house  and  the  castle. 
Thanks  to  the  energetic  administration  of  Tacon,  they 
have  no  authorized  rendezvous  in  Cuba  now.  Regla  is 
consequently  deserted.  Its  streets  are  as  quiet  as  the 
green  lanes  of  the  country.  Its  houses  are  many  of 
them  going  to  decay.  Its  theatre  is  in  ruins,  and  the 
spacious  octagonal  amphitheatre,  once  the  arena  for 
bull-fighting,  the  favorite  spectacle  of  the  Spaniards, 
both  in  Spain  and  in  the  provinces,  and  much  resorted 
to  from  all  quarters  in  the  palmy  days  of  piracy  and 
intemperance,  is  now  in  a  miserably  dilapidated  condi- 
tion ;  affording  the  clearest  proof  of  the  immoral  nature 
and  tendency  of  the  sport,  by  revealing  the  character 
of  those  who  alone  can  sustain  it.  Tacon  and  temper- 
ance have  ruined  Regla. 

The  only  amusement  one  can  now  find  in  Regla,  is 
in  listening  to  the  wild  and  frightful  stories  of  the  rob- 
bers and  robberies  of  other  days.  It  is  scarcely  possible 
to  conceive  that  scenes  such  as  are  there  described,  as 
of  daily,  or  rather  nightly  occurrence,  could  have  taken 
place  in  a  spot  now  so  quiet  and  secure,  and  without 


48  MATERIAL  FOR  NOVELISTS. 

any  of  tnose  dark,  mysterious  lurking  places,  which 
the  imagination  so  easily  conjures  up,  as  essential  to  the 
successful  prosecution  of  the  profession  of  an  organized 
band  of  outlaws.  The  system  set  in  operation  by 
Tacon,  is  still  maintained;  and  mounted  guards  are 
nightly  seen  scouring  the  deserted  and  comparatively 
quiet  avenues,  offering  an  arm  of  defence  to  the  solitary 
and  timid  traveller,  and  a  caution  to  the  evil-disposed, 
that  the  stern  eye  of  the  law  is  upon  them.  Volumes 
of  entertaining  history,  for  those  who  have  the  taste  to 
be  entertained  by  the  marvellous  and  horrible,  might  be 
written  on  this  spot.  And  I  respectfully  recommend  a 
pilgrimage  to  it,  and  a  careful  study  of  its  scenery  and 
topography,  to  those  young  novelists  and  magazine  wri- 
ters, who  delight  to  revel  in  carnage,  and  blood,  anil 
treachery. 


CHAPTER  III. 


THE  SUBURBS  OF  HAVANA,  AND  THE  INTERIOR    OF    THE    ISLAND. 

The  Gardens. — The  Paseo  de  Tacon. — Guiness  an  inviting  resort. 
— Scenery  on  the  route. — Farms. — Hedges  of  Lime  and 
Aloe. — Orange  Groves. — Pines. — Luxuriance  of  the  Soil. — 
Coffee  and  Sugar  Plantations. — Forests. — Flowers  and 
Birds. — The  end  of  the  Road. — Description  of  Guiness. — 
The  Hotel.— The  Church.— The  Valley  of  Guiness.— Beau- 
tiful Scenery. — Other  Resorts  for  Invalids. — Buena  Espe- 
ranza. — The  route  to  it. — Limonar. — Madruga. — Cardenas, 
etc. — Cuba  the  winter  resort  of  Invalids. — Remarks  of  an 
intelligent  Physician. — Pulmonary  Cases. — Tribute  to  Dr. 
Barton. — The  clearness  of  the  Moon. — The  beauties  of  a 
Southern  Sky. — The  Southern  Cross. 

The  neighborhood  of  Havana  abounds  with  pleasant 
rides,  and  delightful  resorts,  in  which  the  invalid  may 
find  the  sweetest  and  most  delicious  repose,  as  well  as 
invigorating  recreation;  while  the  man  of  cultivated 
taste,  and  the  devout  worshipper  of  nature,  may  revel 
in  a  paradise  of  delights.  Among  the  many  attractive 
localities,  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  city,  the  gar- 
dens of  the  Governor  and  the  Bishop  are  pre-eminent. 

Outside  the  city  wall  is  the  "  Paseo  de  Tacon,"  which 
is  a  general  resort,  not  only  for  equestrians  and  pedes- 
5 


50  TRIP  TO  GUINESS. 

trians,  but  also  for  visitors  in  their  cumbrous  volantes. 
The  stranger  will  find  himself  richly  rewarded  on  a 
visit  to  this  frequented  resort.  It  consists  of  three  ways  : 
the  central,  and  widest,  for  carriages ;  and  the  two 
lateral,  which  are  shaded  by  rows  of  trees  and  provided 
with  stone  seats,  for  foot  passengers.  It  presents  a 
lively  and  picturesque  scene,  crowded  as  it  is  with  peo- 
ple of  all  classes,  neatly,  if  not,  elegantly  dressed. 

A  delightful  excursion  to  Guiness  occupies  but  four 
or  five  hours  by  rail-road.  It  is  much  frequented  by 
invalids,  as  an  escape  from  the  monotonous  routine  of 
city  life,  and  presents  many  advantages  for  the  restora- 
tion of  health,  and  the  gratification  of  rural  tastes  and 
pursuits.  Surrounded  by  luxurious  groves  of  orange 
and  other  fruit  trees, — by  coffee  and  sugar  plantations, — 
in  full  view  of  the  table  lands,  proximating  towards  the 
mountains,  and  enjoying  from  November  till  May,  a 
climate  unequalled  perhaps  by  any  other  on  the  face  of 
the  globe ;  the  fortunate  visitor  cannot  but  feel  that,  if 
earth  produces  happiness  in  any  of  its  charmed  haunts, 
"  the  heart  that  is  humble  might  hope  for  it  here ;"  and 
the  invalid,  forgetting  the  object  of  his  pursuit,  might 
linger  forever  around  its  rich  groves  and  shady  walks. 
During  three  months  of  the  year,  the  thermometer  ran- 
ges about  80°  at  sunrise,  seldom  varying  more  than 
from  70°  to  88°.  Nearer  the  coast,  there  is  more  liabil- 
ity to  fever. 

In  the  trip  to  Guiness,  we  did  not  fly  over  the  ground 
as  we  often  do  on  some  of  the  rail-roads  of  our  own 
country,  the  rate  seldom  exceeding  fifteen  miles  an 
hour.  And  it  would  be  more  loss  than  gain  to  the  pas- 
sengers to  go  faster.     The  country  is  too  beautiful,  too 


FARMS HEDGES — ORANGE  GROVES.       51 

rich  in  verdure,  too  luxuriant  in  fruits  and  flowers,  and 
too  picturesque  in  landscape  scenery,  to  be  hurried  over 
at  a  breath.  Passing  the  suburbs  of  the  city,  and  the 
splendid  gardens  of  Tacon,  the  road  breaks  out  into 
the  beautiful  open  country,  threading  its  arrowy  way 
through  the  rich  plantations  and  thriving  farms,  whose 
vegetable  treasures  of  every  description  can  scarcely  be 
paralleled  on  the  face  of  the  earth.  The  farms  which 
supply  the  markets  of  the  city  with  their  daily  abund- 
ance of  necessaries  and  luxuries,  occupy  the  foreground 
of  this  lovely  picture.  They  are  separated  from  each 
other,  sometimes  by  hedges  of  the  fragrant  white  flow- 
ering lime,  or  the  stiff  prim-looking  aloe,  {agave  amer- 
icana,)  armed  on  every  side  with  pointed  lances,  and 
lifting  their  tall  flowering  stems,  like  grenadier  sentinels 
with  their  bristling  bayonets,  in  close  array,  full  "twenty 
feet  into  the  air.  Those  who  have  not  visited  the  tropics, 
can  scarcely  conceive  the  luxuriant  and  gigantic  growth 
of  their  vegetable  productions.  These  hedges,  once 
planted,  form  as  impenetrable  a  barrier  as  a  wall  of 
adamant,  or  a  Macedonian  phalanx ;  and  wo  to  the 
unmailed  adventurer,  who  should  attempt  to  scale  or 
storm  those  self-armed  and  impregnable  defences. 

Within  these  natural  walls,  clustered  in  the  golden 
profusion  of  that  favored  clime,  are  often  seen  extensive 
groves  of  orange  and  pine  apple,  whose  perennial  ver- 
dure is  ever  relieved  and  blended  with  the  fragrant  blos- 
som— loading  the  air  with  its  perfume,  till  the  sense 
almost  aches  with  its  sweetness — and  the  luscious  fruit, 
chasing  each  other  in  unfading  beauty  and  inexhaus- 
tible fecundity,  through  an  unbroken  round  of  summers, 
that  know  neither  spring  time,  nor  decay.     There  is 


52  PLANTATIONS. 

nothing  in  nature  more  enchantingly  wonderful  to  the 
eye  than  this  perpetual  blending  of  flower  and  fruit,  of 
summer  and  harvest,  of  budding  brilliant  youth,  full  of 
hope  and  promise  and  gaiety,  and  mature  ripe  man- 
hood, laden  with  the  golden  treasures  of  hopes  realized, 
and  promises  fulfilled.  How  rich  must  be  the  resources 
of  the  soil,  that  can  sustain,  without  exhaustion,  this 
lavish  and  unceasing  expenditure  of  its  nutritious  ele- 
ments !  How  vigorous  and  thrifty  the  vegetation,  that 
never  falters  nor  grows  old,  under  this  incessant  and 
prodigal  demand  upon  its  vital  energies ! 

It  is  so  with  all  the  varied  products  of  those  ardent 
climes.  Crop  follows  crop,  and  harvest  succeeds  har- 
vest, in  uninterrupted  cycles  of  prolific  beauty  and 
abundance.  The  craving  wants,  the  grasping  avarice 
of  man  alone  exceeds  the  unbounded  liberality  of 
nature's  free  grifts. 

The  coffee  and  sugar  plantations,  chequering  the 
beautiful  valleys,  and  stretching  far  up  into  the  bosom 
of  the  verdant  hills,  are  equally  picturesque  and  beau- 
tiful with  the  farms  we  have  just  passed.  They  are, 
indeed,  farms  on  a  more  extended  scale,  limited  to  one 
species  of  lucrative  culture.  The  geometrical  regularity 
of  the  fields,  laid  out  in  uniform  squares,  though  not  in 
itself  beautiful  to  the  eye,  is  not  disagreeable  as  a  vari- 
ety, set  off  as  it  is  by  the  luxuriant  growth  and  verdure 
of  the  cane,  and  diversified  with  clumps  of  pines  and 
oranges,  or  colonnades  of  towering  palms.  The  low  and 
evenly  trimmed  coffee  plants,  set  in  close  and  regular 
columns,  with  avenues  of  mangoes,  palms,  oranges,  or 
pines,  leading  back  to  the  cool  and  shady  mansion  of 
the  proprietor,  surrounded  with  its  village  of  thatched 


FORESTS  AND  BIRDS.  53 

huts  laid  out  in  a  perfect  square,  and  buried  in  over- 
shadowing trees,  form  a  complete  picture  of  oriental 
wealth  and  luxury,  with  its  painful  but  inseparable  con- 
trast of  slavery  and  wretchedness. 

The  gorgeous  tints  of  many  of  the  forest  flowers,  and 
the  yet  more  gorgeous  plumage  of  the  birds,  that  fill 
the  groves  sometimes  with  melody  delightful  to  the  ear, 
and  sometimes  with  notes  of  harshest  discord,  fill  the 
eye  with  a  continual  sense  of  wonder  and  delight. 
Here  the  glaring  scarlet  flamingo,  drawn  up  as  in  battle 
array  on  the  plain,  and  there  the  gaudy  parrot,  glitter- 
ing in  every  variety  of  brilliant  hue,  like  a  gay  bouquet 
of  clustered  flowers  amid  the  trees,  or  the  delicate, 
irised,  spirit-like  humming  birds,  flitting,  like  animated 
flowerets  from  blossom  to  blossom,  and  coqueting  with 
the  fairest  and  sweetest,  as  if  rose-hearts  were  only 
made  to  furnish  honey-dew  for  their  dainty  taste — what 
can  exceed  the  fairy  splendor  of  such  a  scene  ! 

But  roads  will  have  an  end,  especially  when  every 
rod  of  the  way  is  replete  with  all  that  can  gratify  the 
eye,  and  regale  the  sense,  of  the  traveller.  The  forty- 
five  miles  of  travel  that  take  you  to  Guiness,  traversing 
about  four-fifths  of  the  breadth  of  the  island,  appear,  to 
one  unaccustomed  to  a  ride  through  such  garden-like 
scenery,  quite  too  short  and  too  easily  accomplished; 
and  you  arrive  at  the  terminus,  while  you  are  yet 
dreaming  of  the  midway  station,  looking  back,  rather 
than  forward,  and  lingering  in  unsatisfied  delight  among 
the  fields  and  groves  that  have  skirted  the  way. 

San  Julian  de  los  Guiness  is  a  village  of  about  twen- 
ty-five hundred  inhabitants,  and  one  of  the  pleasantest 
in  the  interior  of  the  Island.     It  is  a  place  of  considera- 


54  THE  VALLEY  OP  GUINESS. 

ble  resort  for  invalids,  and  has  many  advantages  over 
the  more  exposed  places  near  the  northern  shore.  The 
houses  in  the  village  are  neat  and  comfortable.  The 
hotel  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  island.  The  church  is 
large,  built  in  the  form  of  a  cross,  with  a  square  tower 
painted  blue.  Its  architecture  is  rude,  and  as  unattrac- 
tive as  the  fanciful  color  of  its  tower. 

The  valley,  or  rather  the  plain  of  Guiness,  is  a  rich 
and  well  watered  bottom,  shut  in  on  three  sides  by 
mountain  walls,  and  extending  between  them  quite  down 
to  the  sea,  a  distance  of  nearly  twenty  miles.  It  is,  per- 
haps, the  richest  district  in  the  island,  and  in  the  highest 
state  of  cultivation.  It  is  sprinkled  all  over  with  cattle 
and  vegetable  farms,  and  coffee  and  sugar  estates,  of 
immense  value,  whose  otherwise  monotonous  surface -is 
beautifully  relieved  by  clusters,  groves,  and  avenues  of 
stately  palms,  and  flowering  oranges,  mangoes  and 
pines,  giving  to  the  whole  the  aspect  of  a  highly  culti- 
vated garden. 

I  have  dwelt  longer  upon  the  description  of  Guiness, 
and  the  route  to  it,  because  it  will  serve,  as  it  respects 
the  scenery,  and  the  general  face  of  the  country,  as  a 
pattern  for  several  other  routes ;  the  choice  of  which  is 
open  to  the  stranger,  in  quest  of  health,  or  a  temporary 
refuge  from  the  business  and  bustle  of  the  city. 

One  of  these  is  Buena  Esperanza,  the  coffee  estate  of 
Dr.  Finlay,  near  Alquizar,  and  about  forty  miles  from 
Havana.  One  half  of  this  distance  is  reached  in  about 
two  hours,  in  the  cars.  The  remainder  is  performed  in 
volantes,  passing  through  the  pleasant  villages  of  Beju- 
cal,  San  Antonio,  and  Alquizar,  and  embracing  a  view 
of  some  of  the  most  beautiful  portions  of  Cuba.     Lim- 


HINTS  TO  INVALIDS.  55 

onar,  a  small  village,  embosomed  in  a  lovely  valley,  a 
few  miles  from  Matanzas — Madruga,  with  its  sulphur 
springs,  four  leagues  from  Guiness — Cardenas — Villa 
Clara — San  Diego — and  many  other  equally  beautiful 
and  interesting  places,  will  claim  the  attention,  and 
divide  the  choice  of  the  traveller. 

An  intelligent  writer  remarks  that,  "with  the  con- 
stantly increasing  facilities  for  moving  from  one  part  of 
this  island  to  the  other,  the  extension  and  improvement 
of  the  houses  of  entertainment  in  the  vicinity  of  Ha- 
vana, and  the  gaiety  and  bustle  of  the  city  itself  during 
the  winter  months,  great  inducements  are  held  out  to 
visit  this  •'  queen  of  the  Antilles  ;'  and  perhaps  the  time 
is  not  far  distant,  when  Havana  may  become  the  winter 
Saratoga  of  the  numerous  travellers  from  the  United 
States,  in  search  either  of  health  or  recreation."  He 
then  proceeds  to  suggest,  what  must  be  obvious  to  any 
reflecting  and  observing  mind,  that  those  whose  cases 
are  really  critical  and  doubtful,  should  always  remain  at 
home,  where  attendance  and  comforts  can  be  procured, 
which  money  cannot  purchase.  To  leave  home  and 
friends  in  the  last  stages  of  a  lingering  consumption, 
for  example,  and  hope  to  renew,  in  a  foreign  clime  and 
among  strangers,  the  exhausted  energies  of  a  system, 
whose  foundations  have  been  sapped,  and  its  vital  func- 
tions destroyed,  is  but  little  better  than  madness.  In 
such  cases,  the  change  of  climate  rarely  does  the  patient 
any  good,  and  particularly  if  accompanied  with  the 
usual  advice — to  "  use  the  fruits  freely."  Those,  how- 
ever, who  are  but  slightly  affected,  who  require  no  extra 
attention  and  nursing,  but  simply  the  benefit  a  favora- 
ble climate,  co-operating  with  their  own  prudence  in 


56  DR.  BARTON. 

diet  and  exercise,  and  who  are  willing  to  abide  by  the 
advice  of  an  intelligent  physician  on  the  spot,  may  visit 
Cuba  with  confidence,  nay,  with  positive  assurance,  that 
a  complete  cure  will  be  effected.  This  is  the  easiest, 
and,  in  most  cases,  the  cheapest  course  that  can  be  pur- 
sued, in  the  earlier  stages  of  bronchial  affections. 

As  a  lover  of  my  species,  and  particularly  of  my 
countrymen,  so  many  of  whom  have  occasion  to  resort 
to  blander  climates,  to  guard  against  the  insidious 
inroads  of  consumption,  I  cannot  leave  this  subject, 
without  making  use  of  my  privilege,  as  a  writer,  to  say 
a  word  of  an  eminent  physician^  residing  in  Havana, 
who  enjoys  an  exalted  and  deserved  reputation  in  the 
treatment  of  pulmonary  diseases.  I  refer  to  Dr.  Barton, 
a  gentleman  whose  name  is  dear,  not  only  to  the  many 
patients,  -whom,  under  providence,  he  has  restored  from 
the  verge  of  the  grave,  but  to  as  numerous  a  circle  of 
devoted  friends,  as  the  most  ambitious  affection  could 
desire.  His  skill  as  a  physician  is  not  the  only  quality, 
that  renders  him  peculiarly  fitted  to  occupy  the  station, 
where  providence  has  placed  him.  His  kindness  of 
heart,  his  urbanity  of  manners,  his  soothing  attentions, 
his  quick  perception  of  those  thousand  nameless  deli- 
cacies, which,  in  the  relation  of  physician  and  patient, 
more  than  any  other  on  earth,  are  continually  occuring, 
give  him  a  pre-eminent  claim  to  the  confidence  and 
regard  of  all  who  are  brought  within  the  sphere  of  his 
professional  influence.  To  the  stranger,  visiting  a  for^ 
eign  clime  in  quest  of  health,  far  from  home  and  friends, 
this  is  peculiarly  important.  And  to  all  such,  I  can  say 
with  the  fullest  confidence,  they  will  find  in  him  al 


SPLENDORS  OF  A  TROPICAL  SKY.  57 

that  they  could  desire  in  the  most  affectionate  father,  or 
the  most  devoted  brother. 

In  the  interior  of  the  island,  I  observed  that  the  moon 
displays  a  far  greater  radiance  than  in  higher  latitudes. 
To  such  a  degree  is  this  true,  that  reading  by  its  light 
was  discovered  to  be  quite  practicable ;  and,  in  its 
absence,  the  brilliancy  of  the  Milky  Way,  and  the 
planet  Venus,  which  glitters  with  so  effulgent  a  beam 
as  to  cast  a  shade  from  surrounding  objects,  supply,  to 
a  considerable  extent,  the  want  of  it.  These  effects 
are  undoubtedly  produced  by  the  clearness  of  the  atmos- 
phere, and,  perhaps,  somewhat  increased  by  the  altitude. 
The  same  peculiarities  have  been  observed,  in  an  infe- 
rior degree,  upon  the  higher  ranges  of  the  Alleghany 
mountains,  and  in  many  other  elevated  situations, 
where,  far  above  the  dust  and  mists  of  the  lower  world, 
celestial  objects  are  seen  with  a  clearer  eye,  as  well  as 
through  a  more  transparent  medium. 

In  this  region,  the  traveller  from  the  north  is  also  at 
liberty  to  gaze,  as  it  were,  upon  an  unknown  firmament, 
contemplating  stars  that  he  has  never  before  been  per- 
mitted to  see.  The  scattered  Nebulae  in  the  vast  expanse 
above — the  grouping  of  stars  of  the  first  magnitude,  and 
the  opening  of  new  constellations  to  the  view,  invest 
with  a  peculiar  interest  the  first  view  of  the  southern 
sky.  The  great  Humboldt  observed  it  with  deep  emo- 
tion, and  described  it,  as  one  appropriately  affected  by 
its  novel  beauty.  Other  voyagers  have  done  the  same, 
till  the  impression  has  become  almost  universal,  among 
those  who  have  not  "  crossed  the  line,"  that  the  south- 
ern constellations  are,  in  themselves,  more  brilliant,  and 
more  beautifully  grouped,  than  those  of  the  northern 


58  THE  SOUTHERN  CROSS. 

hemisphere.  In  prose  and  poetry  alike,  this  illusion 
has  been  often  sanctioned  by  the  testimony  of  great 
names.  But  it  is  an  illusion  still,  to  be  accounted  for 
only  by  the  natural  effect  of  novelty  upon  a  sensitive 
mind,  and  an  ardent  imagination.  The  denizen  of  the 
south  is  equally  affected  by  the  superior  wonders  of  the 
northern  sky,  and  expatiates  with  poetic  rapture  upon 
the  glories  which,  having  become  familiar  to  our  eyes, 
are  less  admired  than  they  should  be. 

If  any  exception  should  be  made  to  the  above  remarks, 
it  should  be  only  with  reference  to  the  Southern  Cross, 
which,  regarded  with  a  somewhat  superstitious  venera- 
tion by  the  inhabitants  of  these  beautiful  regions,  as  an 
emblem  of  their  faith,  is  seen  in  all  its  glory,  shedding 
its  soft,  rich  light  upon  the  rolling  spheres,  elevating  the 
thoughts  and  affections  of  the  heart,  and  leading  the 
soul  far  beyond  those  brilliant  orbs  of  the  material  hea- 
vens, to  the  contemplation  of  that  "  Hope,  which  we 
have  as  an  anchor  of  the  soul,  both  sure  and  steadfast." 

It  would  be  an  easy  task  to  enlarge  upon  the  won- 
ders of  the  sky,  but  how  shall  man  describe  the  works 
of  Him  "  who  maketh  Arcturus,  Orion,  Pleiades,  and 
the  Chambers  of  the  South  ?  " 


CHAPTER    IV. 

GENERAL  VIEW  OF  THE  ISLAND  OF    CUBA,  ITS    CITIES,   TOWNS, 
RESOURCES,  GOVERNMENT,    ETC. 

Its  political  importance. — Coveted  by  the  Nations. — National 
Robbery  and  Injustice. — Climate  of  Cuba. — Its  Forests  and 
Fruits. — Its  great  staples,  Sugar  and  Coffee. — Copper  mines. 
— Population. — Extent  and  surface.— Principal  cities. — Ma- 
tanzas. — Cardenas. — Puerto  del  Principe.— Santiago  deCuba. 
— Bayamo. — Trinidad  de  Cuba. — Espiritu  Santo. — Govern- 
ment of  the  Island. — Count  Villa  Nueva. — Character  and 
Services  of  Tacon. — Commerce  of  Cuba. — Relations  to  the 
United  States. — Our  causes  of  complaint. — The  true  interests 
of  Cuba. — State  of  Education. — Discovery  and  early  history 
of  the  Island. 

Cuba  is  the  largest,  richest,  most  flourishing,  and  most 
important  of  the  West  India  Islands.  In  a  political 
point  of  view,  its  importance  cannot  be  rated  too  high. 
Its  geographical  position,  its  immense  resources,  the 
peculiar  situation,  impregnable  strength,  and  capacious 
harbor  of  its  capital,  give  to  it  the  complete  command 
of  the  whole  Gulf  of  Mexico,  to  which  it  is  the  key. 
It  is  certainly  an  anomaly  in  the  political  history  of  the 
world,  that  so  weak  a  power  as  that  of  Spain,  should 
be  allowed  to  hold  so  important  a  post,  by  the  all-grasp- 


60  CUBA  COVETED. 

ing,  ambitious  thrones  of  Europe — to  say  nothing  of 
the  United  States,  where  decided  symptoms  of  relation- 
ship to  old  England  begin  to  appear.  It  has  often  been 
found  easy,  where  no  just  cause  of  quarrel  exists,  to  make 
one ;  and  it  is  a  matter  of  marvel  that  the  same  pro- 
found wisdom  and  far-reaching  benevolence,  that  found 
means  to  justify  an  aggressive  war  upon  China,  because, 
in  the  simplicity  of  her  semi-barbarism,  she  would  not 
consent  to  have  the  untold  millions  of  her  children 
drugged  to  death  with  English  opium — cannot  now 
make  slavery,  or  the  slave  trade,  or  piracy,  or  something 
else  of  the  kind,  a  divinely  sanctioned  apology  for 
pouncing  upon  Cuba.  That  she  has  long  coveted  it, 
and  often  laid  plots  to  secure  it,  there  is  no  doubt.  That 
it  would  be  the  richest  jewel  in  her  crown,  and  help 
greatly  to  lessen  the  enormous  burdens  under  which 
her  tax-ridden  population  is  groaning,  there  can  be  no 
question.  But,  the  science  of  politics  is  deep  and  full 
of  mysteries.  It  has  many  problems  which  even  time 
cannot  solve. 

And  then,  as  to  these  United  States — how  conve- 
niently might  Cuba  be  annexed  !  How  nicely  it  would 
hook  on  to  the  spoon-bill  of  Florida,  and  protect  the 
passage  to  our  southern  metropolis,  and  the  trade  of  the 
Gulf.  We  can  claim  it  by  an  excellent  logic,  on  the 
ground  that  it  was  once  bound  closely  to  Florida,  the 
celebrated  de  Soto  being  governor  of  both  ;  and  Spain 
had  no  more  right  to  separate  them,  in  the  sale  and  ces- 
sion of  Florida,  than  she  or  her  provinces  had,  after- 
wards, to  separate  Texas  from  Louisiana.  It  is  a  good 
principle  in  national  politics,  to  take  an  ell  where  an  inch 
is  given,  especially  when  the  giver  is  too  weak  to  resist 


CLIMATE FORESTS.  61 

the  encroachment — and  it  has  been  so  often  practised 
upon,  that  there  is  scarcely  a  nation  on  earth  that  can 
consistently"  gainsay  it.  The  annexation  fever  is  up 
now,  and  I  suggest  the  propriety  of  taking  all  we  intend 
to,  or  all  we  want,  at  a  sweep — lest  the  people  should 
grow  conscientious,  and  conclude  to  respect  the  rights 
of  their  weaker  neighbors. 

But,  to  be  serious,  let  us  take  warning  from  the  past, 
and  learn  to  be  just,  and  moderate,  in  order  that  we  may 
be  prosperous  and  happy.  The  epitaph  of  more  than 
one  of  the  republics  of  antiquity,  might  be  written  thus 
— ruit  sua  mole. 

Much  as  has  been  said,  and  that  with  great  justice 
and  propriety,  of  the  delightful  climate  of  Cuba,  it  is 
subject  to  no  inconsiderable  changes,  and  the  invalid, 
who  resorts  thither  in  quest  of  health,  must  be  on  his 
guard  against  those  changes.  The  "  wet  northers," 
that  sometimes  sweep  down  upon  the  coast,  are  often 
quite  too  severe  for  a  delicate  constitution  to  bear ;  and 
a  retreat  to  the  interior  becomes  necessary.  During  the 
prevalence  of  these  winds,  the  southern  side  of  the 
island  is  the  favorite  resort.  Fortunately,  these  chilly 
visitors  are  few  and  far  between,  seldom  continuing  more 
than  three  or  four  days,  with  as  many  hours  of  rain. 
In  the  absence  of  these,  the  climate  is  as  perfect  as 
heart  can  desire,  resembling,  for  the  most  part,  that  of 
the  south  of  France. 

Notwithstanding  the  large  tracts  of  cultivated  plan- 
tations and  farms,  which  make  this  beautiful  island  a 
perfect  garden,  it  has  extensive  forests  of  great  beauty 
and  value.  The  palm,  whether  found  in  clusters  or 
alone,  is  always  a  magnificent  tree,  and  is  useful  for  a 

6 


62        PRODUCTIONS  AND  POPULATION. 

variety  of  purposes — its  trunk  for  building,  its  leaves 
for  thatching,  and  several  kinds  of  convenient  manu- 
factures, and  its  seeds  for  food.  Mahogany  abounds  in 
some  parts,  and  other  kinds  of  hard  wood  suitable  for 
ship  building,  a  business  which  has  been  carried  on  very 
extensively  in  the  island.  The  vine  attains  to  a  luxu- 
riant growth,  so  as  often  to  destoy  the  largest  trees  in  its 
parasitical  embrace.  The  orange  and  the  pine-apple, 
both  of  a  delicious  flavor,  abound  on  all  sides.  Indian 
corn,  the  sweet  potatoe,  rice,  and  a  great  variety  of 
other  important  edibles  are  extensively  cultivated,  giving 
wealth  to  some,  and  sustenance  to  thousands. 

The  great  staples  of  Cuba,  however,  and  the  princi- 
ple sources  of  her  immense  wealth,  are  sugar  and  coffee. 
These  are  produced  in  the  greatest  abundance.  The 
annual  exports  amount  to  about  six  hundred  and  fifty 
millions  pounds  of  sugar,  and  eighty-four  millions  of 
coffee.  The  exports  of  tobacco  are  about  ten  millions 
pounds  in  the  leaf,  besides  three  hundred  and  ten  mil- 
lions of  manufactured  cigars.  There  are  also  large 
exports  of  molasses,  honey,  wax,  etc. 

There  are  copper  mines  of  great  value  in  the  south 
east  part  of  the  island,  in  the  neighborhood  of  Santiago. 
They  were  worked  a  long  time,  but  for  some  reason 
were  abandoned  for  more  than  a  century.  More  recently 
they  have  been  re-opened,  and  are  now  esteemed  the 
richest  copper  mines  in  the  world.  They  are  worked 
principally  by  an  English  company,  and  the  ore  is  sent 
to  England  to  be  smelted.  The  annual  amount  is  not 
far  from  a  million  and  a  half  of  quintals. 

The  whole  population  of  Cuba  is  estimated  at  a  little 
over  a  million,  420,000  whites,   440,000  slaves,  and 


EXTENT — PRINCIPAL  CITIES.  63 

150,000  free  colored  persons.  The  annual  revenue  of 
the  island,  obtained  from  heavy  taxes  upon  the  sales  of 
every  species  of  property,  and  from  duties  export  as 
well  as  import,  is  twelve  millions  of  dollars.  This  is 
all  drawn  from  its  420,000  whites,  averaging  nearly 
thirty  dollars  a  head.  Of  this  amount,  hut  very  little 
is  expended  in  the  island,  except  for  the  purpose  of 
holding  the  people  in  subjection.  Four  millions  go  into 
the  coffers  of  the  mother  country.    . 

The  island  of  Cuba  is  nearly  eight  hundred  miles  in 
length,  from  east  to  west,  varying  in  breadth  from 
twenty-five  to  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles  Its  coast 
is  very  irregular,  deeply  indented  with  bays  and  inlets, 
and  surrounded  with  numerous  islands  and  reefs,  mak- 
ing a  difficult  and  dangerous  navigation.  It  has  many 
excellent  harbors,  that  of  Havana  being,  as  has  already 
been  said,  one  of  the  best  in  the  world.  A  range  of 
mountains,  rising  into  the  region  of  perpetual  barrenness, 
traverses  the  entire  length  of  the  island,  dividing  it  into 
two  unequal  parts,  the  area  of  the  southern  portion 
being  rather  the  larger  of  the  two.  There  are  also 
many  other  isolated  mountain  peaks  and  lofty  hills,  in 
different  parts  of  the  island,  some  of  them  beautifully 
wooded  to  their  very  summits,  and  others  craggy,  bar- 
ren, precipitious,  and  full  of  dark  caverns  and  frightful 
ravines. 

The  principal  places,  after  Havana,  are  Matanzas, 
Cardenas,  Puerto  del  Principe,  Santiago,  St.  Salvador, 
Trinidad,  and  Espiritu  Santo.  Besides  these  there  are 
some  half  a  dozen  smaller  cities,  twelve  considerable 
towns,  and  about  two  hundred  villages.  The  principal 
seaports  are  all  strongly  fortified. 


64  MATANZAS — CARDENAS. 

Matanzas  is  situated  on  the  northern  shore,  about 
sixty  miles  east  of  the  capital.  It  contains,  including 
its  suburbs,  about  twenty  thousand  inhabitants,  of 
whom  rather  more  than  half  are  whites,  and  about  one 
sixth  are  free  blacks.  It  commands  the  resources  of  a 
rich  and  extensive  valley,  and  its  exports  of  coffee, 
sugar,  and  molasses,  are  veiy  large.  The  bay  of 
Matanzas  is  deep  and  broad,  and  is  defended  by  the 
castle  of  San  Severino.  The  harbor  at  the  head  of  this 
bay,  is  curiously  protected  against  the  swell  of  the  sea, 
during  the  prevalence  of  the  north-east  winds,  by  a 
ledge  of  rocks  extending  nearly  across  it,  leaving  a 
narrow  channel  on  each  side,  for  the  admission  of  ves- 
sels. The  city  is  built  upon  a  low  point  of  land  between 
two  small  rivers,  which  empty  themselves  into  the  bay, 
and  from  which  so  heavy  a  deposit  of  mud  has  been 
made,  as  materially  to  lessen  the  capacity  of  the  har- 
bor. The  anchorage  ground  for  vessels  is,  consequently, 
about  half  a  mile  from  the  shore,  and  cargoes  are  dis- 
charged and  received  by  means  of  lighters. 

Cardenas  is  comparatively  a  new  place,  the  first  set- 
tlement having  been  made  less  than  twenty  years  ago. 
It  now  numbers  about  two  thousand  inhabitants.  It  is 
finely  situated  at  the  head  of  a  beautiful  bay,  fifty  miles 
eastward  of  Matanzas.  This  bay  was  once  a  famous 
resort  for  pirates,  who,  secure  from  observation,  or 
winked  at  by  the  well-feed  officials,  brought  in  the  ves- 
sels they  had  seized,  drove  them  ashore  on  the  rocks, 
and  then  claimed  their  cargoes  as  wreckers,  the  mur- 
dered crews  not  being  able  to  claim  even  a  salvage  for 
their  rightful  owners.  In  the  exhibition  of  scenes  like 
this,  the  bay  of  Cardenas  was  not  alone,  or  singular. 


PRINCIPE SANTIAGO.  65 

Many  an  over-hanging  cliff,  and  dark  inlet  of  that 
blood-stained  shore,  could  tell  a  similar  tale. 

The  rail-road  from  this  place  to  Bemba,  eighteeen 
miles  distant,  passes  through  a  beautiful  tract  of  coun- 
try, and  affords  to  the  traveller  a  view  of  some  of  the 
most  picturesque  scenery  that  is  to  be  found  in  the 
island. 

Owing  to  its  fine  harbor,  and  its  facilities  of  commu- 
nication with  the  rich  tract  of  country  lying  behind  it, 
this  place  will  become  a  formidable  rival  to  Matanzas, 
when  its  port  shall  be  thrown  open  to  foreign  commerce. 
At  present,  there  is  no  custom  house  here,  and  all  the 
produce  is  transported  in  lighters  to  Matanzas  or  Hava- 
na, to  be  sold.  It  has  not  depth  of  water  for  the  largest 
class  of  vessels,  but  the  greater  part  of  those  usually 
employed  in  the  "West  India  trade,  can  be  well  accom- 
modated. 

Puerto  del  Principe,  situated  in  the  interior  of  the 
island,  about  midway  between  its  northern  and  southern 
shores,  and  more  than  four  hundred  miles  eastward 
from  Havana,  contains  a  population  of  twenty-four 
thousand — fourteen  thousand  being  whites,  and  about 
six  thousand  slaves.  This  district  is  celebrated  for  the 
excellent  flavor  of  its  cigars.  It  is  a  place  of  consid- 
erable importance,  and  the  residence  of  a  lieutenant- 
governor. 

Santiago  de  Cuba,  is  on  the  southern  coast,  about  one 
hundred  miles  from  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  island, 
and  nearly  seven  hundred  south-east  of  Havana.  Its 
popoulation  is  twenty-five  thousand,  of  whom  nearly 
ten  thousand  are  whites,  and  eight  thousand  slaves.  It 
has  a  fine,  capacious  harbor,  scarcely  second  to  that  of 


66  BAYAMO TRINIDAD ESPIRITU  SANTO. 

Havana,  and  strongly  defended  by  a  castle,  and  several 
inferior  batteries.  It  has  a  large  trade  in  sugar,  coffee, 
and  molasses.  About  twelve  miles  from  the  city,  west- 
ward, is  the  town  of  Santiago  del  Prade,  near  which 
the  rich  copper  mines,  before  mentioned,  are  situated, 
giving  employment  in  one  way  or  another,  to  nearly  all 
of  its  two  thousand  inhabitants. 

Bayamo,  or  St.  Salvador, — sixty  miles  west  of  San- 
tiago, numbers  nearly  ten  thousand  souls.  Manzanilla, 
thirty  miles  south  from  this,  has  three  thousand. 

Trinidad  de  Cuba,  two  hundred  miles  further  west, 
and  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  from  Havana,  has  a 
population  of  thirteen  thousand,  of  whom  six  thousand 
are  whites,  and  four  thousand  five  hundred,  free  colored. 

Espiritu  Santo,  thirty-five  miles  eastward  from  Trin- 
idad, has  less  than  ten  thousand  inhabitants  in  the  city, 
and  thirty-four  thousand  in  the  whole  district,  of  whom 
twenty-two  thousand  are  whites,  a  very  unusual  propor- 
tion in  these  islands. 

In  their  general  features,  in  the  style  of  the  buildings, 
in  the  character  of  the  people,  their  occupations,  modes 
of  living,  customs  of  society,  etc.,  etc.,  all  these  places 
bear  a  close  resemblance  to  each  other,  varying  only  in 
location,  and  the  lay  of  the  land,  and  the  forms  of  the 
rivers  and  bays  about  them. 

The  government  of  Cuba  is  a  military  despotism, 
whose  edicts  are  enforced  by  an  armed  body  of  more 
than  twelve  thousand  soldiers.  The  Captain  General 
is  appointed  by  the  crown  of  Spain,  and  is  a  kind  of 
vice-roy,  exercising  the  functions  of  commander-in-chief 
of  the  army,  Governor  of  the  western  province  of  the 
island,  President  of  the  provincial  assembly,  etc.     The 


GOVERNMENT.  67 

present  incumbent,  Don  Leopold  O'Donnell,  enjoys  a 
great  share  of  popularity.  He  holds  no  civil  jurisdic- 
tion over  the  eastern  province,  of  which  Santiago  is  the 
capital.  The  governor  of  that  province  is  entirely  in- 
dependent of  the  Captain  General,  except  in  military 
matters,  and  is  amenable  only  to  the  court  of  Madrid. 

The  Intendente,  Count  Villa  Nueva,  recently  re-in- 
stated in  that  office,  is  said  to  be  very  desirous  to  ame- 
liorate the  burdens  of  the  planting  interest ;  and  in  his 
efforts  to  secure  this  result,  he  has  evinced  the  good 
sense  and  prudence,  which  are  usually  followed  with 
success.  His  integrity  and  talents,  together  with  the 
fact  that  he  is  the  only  "  native"  who  was  ever  exalted 
to  high  official  rank,  have  secured  for  him  the  un- 
bounded confidence  and  affection  of  the  people.  His 
power  is  distinct  from  that  of  the  Governor,  and  is  in 
no  way  dependent  upon  it.  He  exercises  certain  legal 
rights,  such  as  the  entire  control  of  the  imports  and 
exports,  and  is,  in  fact,  the  sole  manager  of  all  the 
financial  concerns  of  the  colony.  By  this  arrangement, 
the  purse  and  the  sword  are  entirely  separated,  and  the 
dangers  to  be  apprehended  from  the  abuse  of  power, 
greatly  diminished. 

No  attempt  to  illustrate  the  position,  resources,  and 
character  of  Cuba,  at  the  present  time,  would  do  justice 
to  its  subject,  or  to  the  feelings  of  its  author,  without  an 
honorable  and  grateful  mention  of  the  name  of  Tacon. 
And  no  one  who  has  visited  the  island,  or  who  feels  any 
interest  in  its  welfare,  or  any  regard  for  the  lives  and 
fortunes  of  those  who  hold  commercial  intercourse  with 
its  inhabitants,  can  withhold  from  the  memory  of  that 
truly  great  and  good  man,  the  well-earned  tribute  of 


68  SERVICES  OF  TACON. 

admiration  and  gratitude.  He  was  a  rare  example  of 
wisdom  and  benevolence,  firmness  and  moderation,  and 
seems  to  have  been  raised  up  by  Providence,  and  qual- 
ified for  the  peculiar  exigency  of  his  time.  He  has,  no 
doubt,  been  eminently  useful  in  other  stations  in  his 
native  land  ;  else  he  would  never  have  been  known  to 
his  monarch,  as  fitted  for  the  difficult  task  assigned  him 
here.  But,  if  he  had  never  acted  any  other  part  on  the 
stage  of  life — if  the  term  of  his  public  and  private  use- 
fulness had  been  limited  to  the  brief  period  of  his  chief 
magistracy  in  Cuba,  he  had  won  a  fame  nobler  than 
that  of  princes,  fairer,  worthier,  and  more  enduring 
than  that  of  the  proudest  conquerors  earth  ever  saw. 
The  memorial  of  such  a  man  can  never  be  found  in 
marble,  or  in  epitaph.  It  is  written  in  the  prosperity  of 
a  people,  and  of  the  nations  with  whom  they  hold  com- 
mercial intercourse.  It  lives,  and  should  for  ever  live,  in 
the  gratitude,  admiration  and  reverence  of  mankind. 

When  General  Tacon  was  appointed  Governor  Gen- 
eral of  Cuba,  Havana  was  literally  a  den  of  thieves, 
a  nursery  of  the  foulest  crimes,  a  school  where  the 
blackest  conceptions  of  which  the  human  heart  is 
capable,  and  the  most  diabolical  inventions  of  mischief, 
were  not  only  seen  to  escape  punishment,  but  were 
officially  tolerated  and  encouraged.  A  spirit  of  venal- 
ity and  almost  incredible  corruption  prevailed  in  the 
judicial  and  financial  departments ;  and  the  subaltern 
magistrates,  if  not  actual  partakers,  by  receiving  theiv 
share  of  the  booty,  connived  at  every  variety  of  rob- 
bery and  plunder.  No  natural  or  civil  rights  were 
regarded — no  one's  life  or  property  was  held  sacred. 
Murders  in  the  open  street,  and  under  the  broad  b"  aze 


CHANGE  EFFECTED.  69 

of  a  sunlit  sky,  were  fearlessly  committed  ;  slaves  and 
pirates  imblushingly  perambulated  the  streets,  discus- 
sing their  fiendish  machinations,  and  perpetrating 
deeds  of  darkness,  over  which  humanity  should  weep. 
Specie  transported  from  one  part  of  the  city  to  another, 
required  the  protection  of  an  armed  force.  Such  was 
the  aspect,  and  such  the  lamentable  state  of  affairs, 
both  public  and  private,  in  Havana,  at  the  time  that 
Tacon  came  into  power.  The  measures  adopted  by  him 
for  the  introduction  of  order  and  the  purification  of  the 
whole  political  system,  were  no  less  wise  and  judicious, 
than  his  fearlessness,  promptness  and  perserverance  in 
enforcing  them,  Avere  deserving  of  the  highest  com- 
mendation. His  labors  were  truly  Herculean,  and  his 
success  in  cleansing  this  Augean  stable  most  signal. 

During  his  elevation  to  power,  which  continued  four 
years,  the  aspect  of  things  in  Havana  was  completely 
changed.  Order  supplanted  confusion,  and  whole- 
some authority  succeeded  to  anarchy  and  misrule. 
Individuals  became  secure  in  the  possession  of  life 
and  property  ;  strangers  and  foreigners  no  longer  felt 
themselves  surrounded  by  lawless  bandits,  and  com- 
pelled, by  the  absence  of  law,  order  and  discipline,  to 
take  the  law  into  their  own  hands,  or  abandon,  at  the 
first  appearance  of  violence,  the  protection  of  their 
rights,  property  and  life.  The  man  who  formerly 
walked  abroad  in  Havana,  was  forced  to  feel,  and 
to  act  accordingly  :  that  "  his  hand  was  against  every 
man,  and  every  man's  against  him." 

This  Solon  of  Cuba  was  the  originator  and  promoter 
of  most  of  the  principal  improvements  which  now 
adorn  the  city  and  surrounding   country,   many  of 


70  COMMERCE  WITH  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

which  bear  his  name.  This  bloodless  revolution  was 
accomplished  without  any  additional  public  expense 
or  burdensome  tax  upon  the  people,  by  a  wise  adminis- 
tration and  righteous  application  of  the  ordinary  re- 
sources of  the  government.  Such,  and  more,  were  the 
blessings  bestowed  upon  Cuba  by  Tacon.  Such  are 
the  glorious  results  of  the  public  career  of  one  whose 
highest  ambition  and  whose  proudest  aim  seemed  to 
be,  the  elevation  of  his  countrymen — the  welfare,  secu- 
rity and  happiness  of  mankind.  As  we  honor  and 
revere  the  names  of  Washington  and  La  Fayette,  so 
should  the  dwellers  on  that  island  ever  love  and  cherish 
the  name  of  the  illustrious  Tacon.  At  the  expiration 
of  four  years,  he  voluntarily  retired  to  Spain,  and  was 
succeeded  in  the  government  by  General  Espeleta. 
"  May  the  shadow  of  Tacon  never  be  less ;"  or,  as  they 
say  in  his  own  native  tongue,  "  viva  listed  muchos 
dtlos" 

The  commerce  of  Cuba  is  with  the  world ;  yet  its 
importance  as  a  trading  mart  is  chiefly  realized  by  its 
nearest  neighbor,  the  United  States.  Its  annual  imports 
and  exports,  which  nearly  balance  each  other,  amount 
to  about  twenty-five  millions  of  dollars  each.  Of  the 
imports,  during  the  last  year,  which  may  be  taken  as  a 
fair  average,  it  received  five  millions  two  hundred  and 
forty  thousand  dollars,  or  more  than  one-fifth,  from  the 
United  States.  Of  the  exports,  during  the  same  period, 
we  received  nine  millions  nine  hundred  and  thirty 
thousand  dollars,  within  a  fraction  of  two-fifths.  In 
addition  to  this,  its  commerce  with  the  different  ports 
of  Europe,  South  America,  and  other  parts  of  the  world, 
furnished  profitable  freights  to  a  large  number  of  our 


THE  TRUE  INTERESTS  OF  CUBA.  71 

carrying  ships,  and  employment  to  our  hardy  seamen. 
We  are  in  duty  bound,  therefore,  to  regard  this  minia- 
ture continent,  hanging  on  our  southern  border,  with  a 
favorable  eye,  and  to  cultivate  with  it  the  most  neigh- 
borly relations. 

It  is  true,  we  have  had  some  cause  of  complaint  in 
our  intercourse  hitherto,  and  we  may  not  soon  look  for 
its  entire  removal.  The  imposts  upon  our  productions 
are  severe  and  disproportionate,  the  port-charges  oner- 
ous, and  the  incidental  exactions  unreasonable  and 
vexatious.  We  are  often  subjected  to  frivolous  delays, 
and  unjust  impositions,  in  the  adjustment  of  difficulties  at 
the  custom  house,  and  in  the  recovery  of  debts  in  the 
courts  of  law.  We  have  also,  in  times  past,  been  severe 
sufferers  from  the  depredations  of  well  known  and  almost 
licensed  pirates,  who,  in  open  day,  and  under  the  walls 
of  the  castle,  have  plundered  our  property,  and  butchered 
our  seamen.  Still,  with  all  the  offsets  which  the  most 
ingenious  grumbler  could  array,  we  owe  much  to  the 
'•'  Queen  of  the  Antilles,"  and  might  have  more  occa- 
sion for  regret,  than  for  gratulation,  should  she  ever  be 
transferred  to  the  crown  of  England,  or  annexed  to  the 
territories  of  the  United  States.  If  her  people  were 
prepared  for  self-government — if  the  incongruous  ele- 
ments of  society  there  could,  by  any  possibility,  amal- 
gamate and  harmonize,  the  establishment  of  an  inde- 
pendent government  would  doubtless  promote  her  own 
happiness,  and  benefit  us  and  the  world.  The  luxu- 
riant plains,  and  valleys,  and  hill-sides  of  this  beautiful 
isle,  have  capacities  amply  sufficient  to  sustain  a  popu- 
lation ten  times  as  large  as  that  which  it  now  contains. 
Burdened,  and  almost  crushed  under  the  weight  of 


72  STATE  OF  EDUCATION. 

their  own  taxes,  ruled  with  a  rod  of  iron,  and  held 
in  almost  slavish  subjection  by  the  bristling  bayonets 
of  a  mercenary  foreign  soldiery,  who,  under  the  pre- 
tence of  defending  them  from  invasion  or  insurrection, 
eat  out  their  substance,  and  rivet  their  chains — the  mil- 
lion who  now  reside  there,  with  the  exception  of  a  few 
overgrown  estates  among  the  planters  and  merchants, 
find,  for  the  most  part,  a  miserable  subsistence.  There 
is  probably  no  class  of  people  in  any  portion  of  the 
United  States,  so  miserably  poor  and  degraded,  as  the 
mass  of  the  Monteros  and  free  blacks  of  Cuba.  Give 
them  a  fostering  government,  and  free  institutions, 
educate  them,  make  men  of  them,  and  throw  wide  open 
to  all  the  avenues  to  comfort,  wealth  and  distinction — ■ 
and  there  is  no  spot  on  the  face  of  the  globe  that  would 
sustain  a  denser  population  than  this. 

The  exports  from  the  United  States  to  Cuba  consist 
of  lumber  of  various  kinds,  codfish,  rice,  bacon,  lard, 
candles,  butter,  cheese.  The  first  two  articles  are 
almost  exclusively  from  the  Northern  States,  the  third 
from  the  Southern,  the  remainder  from  all.  The  im- 
ports hence  are  of  all  the  productions  of  the  island. 

The  cause  of  education  in  this  lovely  land  is  lament- 
ably low.  In  the  large  cities  and  towns,  respectable 
provision  is  made  for  the  wants  of  the  young  in  this 
respect.  The  Royal  University  at  Havana,  embracing 
among  its  advantages,  schools  of  medicine  and  law, 
offers  very  considerable  facilities  to  the  industrious  stu- 
dent. There  are  also  several  other  lesser  institutions 
in  the  city,  with  schools,  public  and  private,  for  teach- 
ing the  elementary  branches  of  a  common  education. 
Some  of  these  are  tolerably  well   sustained ;  but  the 


LOW  CONDITION  OP  THE  PEOPLE.  73 

range  they  afford,  and  the  talent  they  command,  is 
comparatively  so  limited,  that  most  of  those  who  are 
able  to  bear  the  expense,  prefer  sending  their  sons  to 
the  United  States  or  Europe,  to  complete  their  educa- 
tion. 

No  other  place  in  the  island  is  so  well  provided  in 
this  respect  as  the  capital.  Arrangements  are  made,  in 
most  of  the  towns  and  interior  districts,  for  gratuitous 
instruction.  In  some  cases,  this  provision  is  wholly 
inadequate.  In  others,  it  is  regarded  with  indifference 
by  the  class  for  whose  benefit  it  is  designed.  Their 
abject  poverty  and  destitution  of  the  common  comforts 
of  life,  seems  to  cramp  all  their  energies,  and  dishearten 
them  from  any  attempt  to  better  the  condition  of  their 
children.  And,  indeed,  under  their  present  civil  and 
political  institutions,  but  few  advances  could  be  made, 
even  if  the  people  were  ambitious  to  improve.  For  the 
government,  like  all  despotisms,  is  jealous  of  the  intel- 
ligence of  its  subjects,  well  knowing  that  a  reading, 
thinking  people  must  and  will  be  free. 

Cuba  was  the  fifth  of  the  great  discoveries  of  Colum- 
bus, and  by  far  the  most  important  of  the  islands  he 
visited.  San  Salvador,  Conception,  Exuma  and  Isa- 
bella, which  he  had  already  seen  and  named,  were 
comparatively  small  and  of  little  note,  though  so  rich 
and  beautiful,  that  they  seemed  to  the  delighted  imagi- 
nation of  the  discoverer,  the  archipelago  of  Paradise, 
or  the  "  islands  of  the  blest."  It  is  very  remarkable, 
that,  though  he  skirted  the  whole  of  the  southern,  and 
more  than  half  the  northern  coast  of  Cuba,  following 
its  windings  and  indentations  more  than  twelve  hun- 
dred miles,  till  he  was  fully  convinced  that  it  was  a 

7 


74  EARLY  HISTORY  OF  CUBA. 

part  of  a  great  continent,  and  not  an  island ;  yet  he 
made  no  attempt  to  occupy  it,  or  to  plant  a  colony 
there.  It  was  not  even  visited  during  his.  life-time,  and 
he  died  in  the  full  conviction  that  it  was  not  an  island. 
He  gave  it  the  name  of  Juana,  in  honor  of  the  young 
prince  John,  heir  to  the  crowns  of  Castile  and  Leon. 
It  afterwards  received  the  name  of  Fernandina,  by  order 
of  the  king  in  whose  name  it  was  occupied  and  held. 
But  the  original  designation  of  the  natives  finally  pre- 
vailed over  both  the  Spanish  ones,  which  were  long 
since  laid  aside.  It  is  understood  to  be  derived  from 
the  Indian  name  of  a  tree,  which  abounded  in  the 
island. 

In  1511,  about  five  years  after  the  death  of  Colum- 
bus, his  son  and  successor,  Diego,  in  the  hope  of  obtain- 
ing large  quantities  of  gold,  which  was  then  growing 
scarce  in  Hispaniola,  sent  Don  Diego  Yelasquez,  an 
experienced  and  able  commander,  of  high  rank  and 
fortune,  to  take  possession  of  Cuba.  Panfilo  de  Nar- 
vaez  was  the  second  in  command  in  this  expedition. 
The  names  of  both  these  knights  are  conspicuous  in 
the  subsequent  history  of  Spanish  discovery  and  con- 
quest, in  the  islands,  and  on  the  continent,  but  more 
especially  in  their  relation  to  Cortes,  the  great  conqueror 
of  Mexico. 

The  inhabitants  of  Cuba,  like  those  of  Hispaniola, 
and  some  of  the  other  islands,  were  a  peaceful  effemi- 
nate race,  having  no  knowledge  of  the  arts  of  war,  and 
fearing  and  reverencing  the  Spaniards  as  a  superior 
race  of  beings  descended  from  above.  They  submitted, 
without  opposition,  to  the  yoke  imposed  upon  them.  It 
was  for  the  most  part,  a  bloodless  conquest,  yielding 


STORY  OF  HATUEY.  75 

few  laurels  to  the  proud  spirits  who  conducted  it,  but 
rich  in  the  spoils  of  spiritual  warfare  to  the  kind- 
hearted  and  devoted  Las  Casas,  subsequently  Bishop  of 
Chiapa,  who  accompanied  the  army  in  all  its  marches, 
the  messenger  of  peace  and  salvation  to  the  subjugated 
indians.  According  to  the  record  of  this  good  father, 
the  indefatigable  missionary  of  the  cross,  only  one 
chief  residing  on  the  eastern  part  of  the  island,  offered 
any  resistance  to  the  invaders ;  and  he  was  not  a  native, 
but  an  emigrant  from  Hispaniola,  whence  he  had 
recently  escaped,  with  a  few  followers,  from  the  cruel 
oppression  of  their  new  masters,  to  find  repose  on  the 
peaceful  shores  of  Cuba.  Alarmed  and  excited  by  the 
appearance  of  the  Spanish  ships  approaching  his  new 
found  retreat,  Hatuey  called  his  men  together,  and  in 
an  eloquent  an  animated  speech,  urged  them  to  a  des- 
perate resistance,  in  defence  of  their  homes  and  their 
liberty.  With  scornful  irony,  he  assured  them  that 
they  would  not  be  able  successfully  to  defend  them- 
selves, if  they  did  not  first  propitiate  the  god  of  their 
their  enemies.  "  Behold  him  here,"  said  he,  pointing  to 
a  vessel  filled  with  gold,  "  behold  the  mighty  divinity, 
whom  the  white  man  adores,  in  whose  service  he  rava- 
ges our  country,  enslaves  us,  our  wives  and  our  chil- 
dren, and  destroys  our  lives  at  his  pleasure.  Behold 
the  god  of  your  cruel  enemies,  and  invoke  his  aid  to 
resist  them."  After  some  slight  ceremonies  of  invoca- 
tion, in  imitation  of  the  rites  of  Christian  worship, 
which  they  had  learned  from  their  oppressors,  they  cast 
the  gold  into  the  sea,  that  the  Spaniards  might  not 
quarrel  about  it,  and  prepared  for  their  defence.  They 
fought  desperately,  resolved  rather  to  die  in  battle,  than 


76  THE  ISLAND  DEPOPULATED. 

submit  to  the  cruel  domination  of  the  invaders.  They 
were  nearly  all  destroyed.  The  Cacique  Hatuey  was 
taken  prisoner,  and  condemned  to  be  burned  alive,  in 
order  to  strike  terror  into  the  minds  of  the  other  chiefs 
and  their  people.  In  vain  did  the  benevolent  mission- 
ary protest  against  the  cruel,  unchristian  sacrifice.  He 
labored  diligently  to  convert  the  poor  cacique  to  the 
Christian  faith,  urging  him  most  affectionately  to  receive 
baptism,  as  the  indispensable  requisite  for  admission  to 
heaven.  His  reply  is  one  of  the  most  eloquent  and 
bitterly  taunting  invectives  on  record.  Enquiring  if  the 
white  men  would  go  to  heaven,  and  being  answered  in 
the  affirmative,  he  replied — "  then  I  will  not  be  a  chris- 
tian, for  I  would  not  willingly  go  where  I  should  find 
men  so  cruel."  He  then  met  his  death  with  heroic  for- 
titude, or  rather  with  that  stoical  indifference,  which  is 
a  common  characteristic  of  the  aborigines  of  America ; 
preferring  even  a  death  of  torture  to  a  life  of  servitude, 
especially  under  the  hated  Spaniards,  who  had  shown 
themselves  as  incapable  of  gratitude,  as  they  were  des- 
titute of  pity,  and  the  most  common  principles  of  justice. 
The  army  met  with  no  further  opposition.  The 
Avhole  island  submitted  quietly  to  their  sway,  and  the 
unresisting  inhabitants  toiled,  and  died,  and  wasted 
away  under  the  withering  hand  of  oppression.  It  is 
probable,  from  all  accounts,  that  the  population,  at  the 
time  of  the  conquest,  was  nearly,  if  not  quite  as  great, 
as  it  is  at  the  present  time  :  though  some  of  the  Spanish 
chroniclers,  to  cover  the  cruelty  of  so  dreadful  a  sacri- 
fice, greatly  reduce  the  estimate.  Whatever  were  their 
numbers,  however,  they  disappeared  like  flowers  before 
the  chilling  blasts  of  winter.     Unaccustomed  to  any 


THE  GIBRALTAR  OF  AMERICA.  77 

kind  of  labor,  they  fainted  under  the  heavy  exactions 
of  their  cruel  and  avaricious  task-masters.  Diseases, 
►  hitherto  unknown  among  them,  were  introduced  by 
their  intercourse  with  the  strangers ;  and,  in  a  few 
years,  their  fair  and  beautiful  inheritance  was  depopu- 
lated, and  left  to  the  undisputed  possession  of  the  mer- 
ciless intruders. 

In  four  years  after  the  subjugation,  Velasques  had 
laid  the  foundation  of  seven  cities,  the  sites  of  which 
were  go  well  selected,  that  they  still  remain  the  princi- 
pal places  in  the  colony,  with  the  exception  of  Havana, 
which  was  originally  located  on  the  southern  shore, 
near  Batabano,  but  afterwards  abandoned  on  account 
of  its  supposed  unhealthiness.  Its  present  site,  then 
called  the  port  of  Carenas,  was  selected  and  occupied  in 
1519. 

So  much  has  been  said  of  the  impregnable  strength 
of  Havana,  that  I  shall  venture,  at  some  risk  of  repeti- 
tion, as  well  of  being  out  of  place  with  my  remarks,  to 
say  a  few  words  more  on  that  point.  The  position  of 
the  Moro,  the  Cabanas,  and  the  fortress  on  the  opposite 
eminence,  has  been  sufficiently  illustrated.  I  know  not 
that  any  thing  could  be  added  to  these  fortifications,  to 
make  them  more  perfect,  in  any  respect,  than  they  are. 
They  confer  upon  Havana  a  just  claim  to  be  called,  as 
it  has  been,  "  The  Gibraltar  of  America."  In  effecting 
this,  nature  has  combined  with  artr  in  a  beautiful  and 
masterly  manner,  so  that  the  stranger  is  struck,  at  the 
first  glance,  with  the  immense  strength  of  the  place, 
and  the  thought  of  surprising  or  storming  it,  would 
seem  to  be  little  short  of  madness. 

But  let  it  be  remembered  that  the  impregnable  Gib- 


78  IS  HAVANA  IMPREGNABLE? 

raltar  was  successfully  attacked,  and  is  now  in  posses- 
sion of  the  conquerors.  The  inaccessible  heights  of 
Abraham  were  scaled  in  a  night,  and  Quebec  stift 
remains  to  show  what  seeming  impossibilities  courage 
and  skill  united  can  achieve. 

With  the  exception  of  the  Moro,  all  the  great  fortifi- 
cations at  Havana,  are  of  comparatively  recent  construc- 
tion. They  have  been  erected  since  the  memorable 
seige  of  1762,  when,  after  one  of  the  most  desperate 
and  sanguinary  conflicts  on  record,  the  English  fleet 
and  army  succeeded  in  capturing  the  city.  The  Span- 
iards say,  that  the  final  and  successful  sortie  was  made 
in  the  afternoon,  while  their  generals  was  taking  their 
siesta — a  cover  for  the  shame  of  defeat,  about  as  trans- 
parent as  that  of  the  Roman  sentinels  at  the  tomb  of 
Christ,  whom  the  wily  priests  induced  to  declare,  that 
"  his  disciples  stole  him  away  while  they  slept."  There 
is  no  question,  however,  that,  notwithstanding  the  great 
strength  of  this  place,  and  its  entire  safety  from  any 
attack  by  sea,  it  could  be  assailed  with  effect,  by  the 
landing  of  efficient  forces  in  the  rear,  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  these  other  places,  just  mentioned,  were  taken, 
and  as  the  French  have  recently  succeeded  in  capturing 
Algiers. 


CHAPTER  V. 

DEPARTURE  FROM  HAVANA. THE  GULF  OF  MEXICO. ARRIVAL 

AT  VERA  CRUZ. 

The  Steamer  Dee.— Running  down  the  coast. — Beautiful  scenery. 
— Associations  awakened  by  it. — Columbus. — The  scenes  of 
his  glorious  achievements. — The  island  groups. — The  shores 
of  the  continent. — "  The  Columbian  sea." — Disappointments 
and  sufferings,  the  common  inheritance  of  genius. — Cervantes, 
Hylander,  Camoens.  Tasso. — These  waters  rich  in  historical 
incidents. — Revolutions. — Arrival  at  Vera  Cruz. — The  Peak 
of  Orizaba. — Description  of  Vera  Cruz. — Churches. — The 
Port. — San  Juan  de  Ulloa. — Scarcity  of  Water. — The  sub- 
urbs.— Population. — Yellow  Fever. 

The  British  Royal  mail  steamer  Dee,  arriving  at  Ha- 
vana on  one  of  her  regular  circuits,  presented  a  very- 
favorable  opportunity  to  gratify  a  disposition  for  change. 
Accordingly,  on  the  10th  of  February,  I  embarked  on 
board  of  her,  with  the  intention  of  touching  at  Vera 
Cruz,  and  thence  proceeding  to  Tampico,  and  such 
other  interesting  points  as  my  time  and  health  would 
allow. 

The  "Dee"  is  one  of  a  Line  of  Steamers,  built  by  a 
company  in  London,  to  carry  the  mails,  which  are 
placed  in  charge  of  an  officer,  acting  under  the  direc- 


80  RUNNING  DOWN  THE  COAST. 

tion  of  the  British  government.  This  company  receives 
from  the  government,  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand 
pounds  annually.  The  vessels  average  about  one  thou- 
sand tons  each,  and  are  so  built  as  to  be  readily  altered 
into  men-of-war,  should  they  be  required  to  strengthen 
the  English  naval  power.  The  Dee  consumes  about 
thirty-five  tons  of  coal  per  day.  Her  average  speed, 
however,  under  the  most  favorable  circumstances,  does 
not  exceed  eight  and  a  half  knots  an  hour.  She  is 
commanded  by  a  sailing  master  of  the  British  navy, 
whose  salary  is  about  fifteen  hundred  dollars  per 
annum.  She  has  been  in  service  only  two  years,  but 
has  the  appearance  of  being  a  much  older  vessel ;  a 
circumstance  caused  no  doubt  by  the  "  retrenchments" 
consequent  upon  the  unlimited  extravagance  of  the 
company's  first  outfit.  Her  so-called  "  accommodations" 
were  very  inferior,  and  the  table  was  miserably  fur- 
nished, but  the  service  of  plate,  emblazoned  with  heraldic 
designs,  was,  unquestionably,  beautiful. 

We  steamed  out  of  the  harbor  at  sunrise,  the  ever 
wakeful  Moro  looking  sternly  down  upon  us  as  we 
passed  under  its  frowning  battlements ;  and,  being 
favored  with  delightful  weather,  skirted  the  coast  as  far 
as  we  could,  and  took  our  departure  from  Cape  Antonio. 

Nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  and  sublimity  of  the 
natural  scenery  thus  presented  to  our  view,  between 
Havana  and  the  point  of  the  Cape.  The  broad  rich 
plains,  the  gentle  slopes,  the  luxuriant  swells,  the  hills 
clothed  with  verdure  to  their  very  crowns,  the  lofty 
mountains  with  their  abrupt  and  craggy  prominences 
and  ever  changing  forms,  make  up  a  landscape  of  the 
richest  and  rarest  kind,  beautiful  in  all  its  parts,  and 


ASSOCIATIONS.  81 

exceedingly  picturesque  in  its  general  effect.  The  hills, 
with  highly  cultivated  plantations,  extending  from  the 
lovely  valleys  below,  in  beautiful  order  and  luxuriance, 
far  up  towards  their  forest-crowned  summits,  looked 
green  and  inviting,  as  if  full  of  cool  grottos  and  shady 
retreats  ;  while  the  far-off  mountains  where 

"  Distance  lent  enchantment  to  the  view," 

seemed  traversed  with  dark  ravines  and  gloomy  cav- 
erns, fit  abodes  for  those  hordes  of  merciless  banditti, 
whose  predatory  achievements  have  given  to  the  shores 
and  mountain  passes  of  Cuba,  an  unenviable  pre-emi- 
nence in  outlawry. 

The  motion  of  our  oaken  leviathan,  sweeping  heavily 
along  through  the  quiet  sea,  created  a  long,  low  swell, 
which,  like  a  miniature  tide,  rose  gently  upon  the 
resounding  shore,  washing  its  moss-covered  bank,  and 
momentarily  disturbing  the  echoes  that  lingered  in  its 
voiceless  caves.  It  was  painful  to  feel  that  I  was  leav- 
ing those  beautiful  shores,  never,  in  all  probability,  to 
revisit  them.  A  gloomy  feeling  took  possession  of  my 
soul,  as  if  parting  again,  and  for  ever,  from  the  shores 
of  my  early  home.  Then  came  up,  thronging  upon  the 
memory  and  the  fancy,  a  multitude  of  historical  asso- 
ciations, suggested  by  the  land  before  me,  and  the  sea 
on  whose  bosom  I  was  borne — associations  of  the  most 
thrilling  and  painful  interest,  and  yet  so  wonderfully 
arrayed  in  the  gorgeous  drapery  of  romance,  that  I 
would  not,  if  I  could,  dismiss  them. 

Albeit,  then,  I  may  be  in  imminent  danger  of  running 
into  vain  repetitions,  in  giving  indulgence  to  the  melan- 
choly humor  of  the  hom1,  I  cannot  refrain  from  follow- 


82  THE  ISLAND  GROUPS. 

ing  out,  in  this  place,  where  a  clear  sky  and  an  open 
sea  leave  me  no  better  employment,  some  of  those  re- 
flections, which,  if  indulged  in  at  all,  might,  perhaps, 
with  equal  appropriateness  have  found  a  place  in  one 
of  the  previous  chapters.  With  Cuba,  one  of  the  earliest, 
and  the  most  important  of  the  great  discoveries  of 
Columbus,  behind  me — the  shores  of  Central  America, 
the  scene  of  his  last  and  greatest  labors  in  the  cause  of 
science,  before  me — and  the  wide  expanse  of  sea, 
which  witnessed  all  his  toils,  and  sufferings,  around  me 
on  every  side — how  could  I  do  otherwise  than  recall  to 
mind  all  that  he  had  accomplished,  and  all  that  he  had 
endured,  in  this  region  of  his  wonderful  adventures ! 
Here  was  the  grand  arena  of  his  more  than  heroic  vic- 
tories, the  theatre  of  his  proud  triumph  over  the  two 
great  obstacles,  which,  in  all  ages  have  opposed  the 
march  of  mind — the  obstinate  bigotry  of  the  ignorant, 
and  the  still  more  obstinate  ignorance  of  the  learned. 

Behind  me,  far  away  toward  the  rising  sun,  was  the 
little  island  of  San  Salvador,  where  the  New  World,  in 
all  its  elysian  beauty,  its  virgin  loveliness,  burst  upon 
his  view.  Conception,  Fernandina,  and  Isabella,  the 
bright  enchanting  beacons  rising  out  of  the  bosom  of 
the  deep,  to  guide  his  eager  prow  to  Cuba,  the  "  Queen 
of  the  Antilles,"  were  there  too,  slumbering  on  the  outer 
verge  of  the  coral  beds  of  the  Bahamas.  Nearer,  and 
full  in  view,  its  mountain  peaks  towering  to  the  skies, 
and  stretching  its  long  arm  nearly  three  hundred 
leagues  away  toward  the  south-east,  lay  the  beautiful 
island  I  had  just  left,  the  richest  jewel  of  the  ocean,  the 
brightest  gem  in  the  crown  of  Spain.  Farther  on  in 
the  same  direction,  and  dimly  descried  from  the  eastern 


THE  SHORES  OF  THE  CONTINENT.  83 

promontories  of  Cuba,  were  the  lofty  peaks  of  St.  Do- 
mingo, beautifully  flanked  by  Porto  Rico  on  the  rights 
and  Jamaica  on  the  left.  Then,  farther  still,  sweeping  in 
a  graceful  curve  toward  the  outermost  angle  of  the  South- 
ern continent,  and  completing  the  emerald  chain,  which 
nature  has  so  beautifully  thrown  across  the  broad  chasm 
that  divides  the  eastern  shores  of  the  two  Americas,  lay 
the  windward  cluster  of  the  Caribbean  islands,  terminat- 
ing with  Trinidad,  in  the  veiy  bosom  of  the  Gulf  of  Paria. 
Returning  westward,  along  the  coast  of  Paria,  where 
Columbus  first  actually  saw  the  continent,  and  travers- 
ing the  whole  extent  of  the  Caribbean  Sea,  you  might 
reach  the  shores  of  Honduras,  where  he  again  touched 
the  shores  of  the  continent,  and  finished,  amid  the  in- 
firmities of  age,  and  the  sufferings  consequent  upon  a 
life  of  toil,  hardship  and  exposure,  his  great  achieve- 
ment of  discovery,  his  career  of  usefulness  and  glory. 

Coming  northward,  toward  the  point  whither  we 
were  then  tending,  and  rounding  Cape  Catoche  into  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico,  you  would  behold  the  true  Eldorado 
which  they  all  sought  for,  and  which  the  brave  Cortes 
afterwards  found — the  golden  mountains  and  golden 
cities  of  Anahuac.  Northward  still,  some  two  hundred 
leagues,  the  "  Father  of  rivers  "  pours  his  mighty  cur- 
rent into  the  bosom  of  the  Gulf,  after  watering  and 
draining  the  richest  and  broadest  valleys  in  the  world, 
and  linking  together,  by  its  various  and  extended 
branches,  the  mighty  fraternity  of  republics,  spread  over 
the  vast  territories  of  the  North. 

I  pity  the  man,  whoever  he  may  be,  and  of  whatever 
nation,  who  can  visit  these  islands,  or  traverse  these 
seas,  for  the  first  time,  without  feeling  as  if  he  were 


84  THE  COLUMBIAN  SEA. 

treading  on  enchanted  ground.  Every  country,  every 
sea  has  its  peculiar  history,  and  its  peculiar  associa- 
tions. There  is  much  to  interest  the  heart,  and  inflame 
the  imagination  in  the  dark  legends  of  the  Indian  archi- 
pelago— in  the  classic  memories  and  time-hallowed 
monuments  of  the  "  Isles  of  Greece,"  and  of  the  shores 
and  bays,  the  mountains  and  streams  of  all  the  coun- 
tries bordering  on  the  Mediterranean — in  the  rock- 
bound  coast  of  the  North  Sea — in  the  basaltic  columns 
and  gigantic  caverns  of  the  Emerald  Isle  ; — but  they 
do  not,  in  my  view,  either  or  all  of  them,  surpass,  in 
the  deep  interest  and  moral  grandeur  of  the  associations 
they  awaken,  the  shores  that  then  surrounded  me — the 
American  Isthmus,  and  the  American  archipelago. 

The  American  archipelago  ! — the  Mediterranean  of 
the  Western  World,  with  its  beautiful  clusters  of  mag- 
nificent islands — why  not  call  it,  as  Bradford  long  ago 
suggested,  The  Columbian  Sea  7  Surely,  if  the 
Florentine  merchant  has  been  permitted  to  rob  the  great 
Genoese  discoverer  of  the  honor  of  conferring  his  own 
illustrious  name  upon  the  two  vast  continents,  which 
his  genius  and  perseverance  brought  to  light,  while  the 
whole  world  has  quietly  sanctioned  the  larceny — we, 
who  know  the  equity  of  his  claims,  and  feel  how 
shamefully  he  has  been  abused,  might  at  least  do  him 
the  tardy  justice  to  affix  his  name,  in  perpetuo,  to  this 
sea,  which,  by  universal  acknowledgment,  he  was  the 
first  to  traverse  and  explore — the  scene  of  his  glorious 
triumph  over  the  narrow  and  ignorant  prejudices  of  his 
day,  as  well  as  of  his  romantic  adventures,  toils  and 
sufferings. 

What  must  have  been  the  emotions  of  Columbus 


THE  COMMON  LOT  OF  GENIUS.  85 

when  he  first  traversed  these  waters,  and  beheld  these 
lovely  islands  !  For,  even  now,  with  the  mind  already 
prepared  by  the  full  and  elaborate  descriptions  of  geo- 
graphers and  travellers,  they  are  beheld  by  the  voyager, 
for  the  first  time,  with  sensations  of  surprise  and  de- 
light. The  objects  of  wonder  with  which  he  and  his 
crew  were  surrounded — the  variation  of  the  compass, 
the  regularity  of  the  winds,  and  other  phenomena,  of 
the  existence  of  which  they  could  not  possibly  have 
been  apprised,  must  have  been  truly  exciting.  Think 
of  his  astonishment  on  landing,  to  find  myriads  of  peo- 
ple, disposed  to  regard  him  and  his  adventurous  crew, 
as  beings  of  a  superior  order,  whom  they  were  almost 
ready  to  adore.  And  then,  pray  that  the  veil  of  ob- 
livion may  be  thrown  over  the  fiendish  requital  which, 
in  after  years,  succeeded  this  hospitable  reception. 

It  is  any  thing  but  agreeable  to  a  generous  heart,  to 
witness  or  contemplate  the  strivings  of  a  noble  mind, 
with  the  cares  and  anxieties  of  life,  having  some  mag- 
nificent project  in  view,  but  hindered  from  carrying  it 
forward,  by  the  stern  demand  of  a  starving  household, 
or  the  want  of  that  golden  lever,  which,  with  or  without 
a  place  to  stand  upon,  has  power  to  move  the  world. 
With  but  few  exceptions,  it  has  ever  been  the  case,  that 
men  of  genius  have  struggled  with  adversity, — 

Have  felt  the  influence  of  malignant  star, 
And  waged  with  fortune  an  eternal  war. 

Fortune  seldom  smiles  upon  the  sons  of  science.  Rarely, 
indeed,  does  she  condescend  to  become  the  companion 
'of  genius.  It  was  not  until  Columbus  had  touched  the 
master  passion  of  his  royal  patrons,  that  he  could  induce 

8 


86       SUFFERINGS  OF  THE  TRULY  GREAT. 

them  to  grant  him  assistance.  When  he  had  convinced 
the  king  of  the  great  pecuniary  advantage  to  be  derived 
to  the  crown  from  his  enterprise,  and  the  queen  of  the 
vast  accessions  to  the  holy  church,  in  bringing  new 
territories  under  her  sway,  and  converting  nations  of 
heathen  to  the  christian  faith, — then,  and  not  till  then, 
did  they  consent  to  favor  his  expedition.  Absorbed 
with  their  one  idea  of  planting  the  standards  of  Castile 
and  of  the  Cross  on  the  marble  palaces  of  the  Alham- 
bra,  they  had  no  time  to  consider,  no  treasure  to  sus- 
tain, such  magnificent  schemes  of  discovery.  Should 
Columbus  be  succored,  when  Cervantes,  suffered  and 
hungered  for  bread  ?  Was  it  not  the  cold  treatment 
Cervantes  received,  that  wrung  from  his  subdued  spirit 
the  humiliating  complaint,  that  "  the  greatest  advantage 
which  princes  possess  above  other  men,  is  that  of  being 
attended  by  servants  as  great  as  themselves?"  But 
why  should  we  seek  out,  dwell  upon,  and  hold  up  to 
the  execration  of  the  world,  these  instances  of  royal  lit- 
tleness, injustice,  and  ingratitude,  when  the  world  is, 
and  always  has  been,  full  of  such  exhibitions  of  human 
nature  ?  Was  not  Hylander  compelled  to  sell  his  notes 
on  Dion  Casseus  for  a  dinner  7  Did  not  Camoens,  the 
solitary  pride  of  Portugal, — he  who  after  his  death  was 
honored  by  the  appellation  of  "the  great," — beg  for 
bread  1  Has  not  a  Tasso  from  the  depths  of  his  pov- 
erty, besought  his  cat  to  assist  him  with  the  lustre  of 
her  eyes,  that  he  might  pen  his  immortal  verse  1  Yes, — 
and  one  simple  story  would  tell  the  fate  of  a  Homer, 
Ariosto,  Dryden,  Spenser,  Le  Sage,  Milton,  Sydenham, 
and  a  mighty  host  of  others,  who,  after  having  spent 
their  lives  in  the  cause  of  letters,  and  of  human  advance- 


DEEPLY  INTERESTING  ASSOCIATIONS.  87 

ment  and  liberty,  were  neglected  by  their  countrymen, 
and  suffered  to  die  in  obscurity,  if  not  in  poverty  and 
want ! 

The  Columbian  Sea  !  divided  by  the  projecting  pen- 
insulse  of  Yucatan  and  Florida,  and  the  far-stretching 
walls  of  Cuba  and  Hispaniola,  into  two  great  sections, 
the  Caribbean  Sea,  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico — how  full 
of  interest,  historical  and  romantic,  how  curious,  how 
wonderful  in  many  of  the  phenomena  it  exhibits ! 
Here  is  the  inexhaustible  fountain  head  of  that  inexpli- 
cable mystery  of  nature,  the  Gulf  Stream,  which,  with- 
out any  visible  adequate  supply,  throws  its  mighty  cur- 
rent of  calid  water,  thousands  of  miles  across  the  cold 
Atlantic.  Here  European  civilization,  and  European 
depotism  first  planted  its  foot  in  the  elysian  fields  of  the 
west.  Here  the  dreadful  work  of  subjugation,  and 
extermination  commenced  a  work,  which,  in  three  brief 
centuries,  under  the  banners,  too,  of  the  Prince  of 
Peace,  and  in  the  name  of  Christianity,  has  blotted  from 
the  face  of  the  earth  a  mighty  family  of  populous 
nations,  some  of  them  far  advanced  in  civilization  and 
refinement,  leaving  only  here  and  there  a  scattered  and 
almost  exhausted  tribe,  bending  under  the  yoke  of  sla- 
very, or  flying  before  the  continual  encroachments  of 
the  white  man. 

It  is  difficult  to  say  to  which  quarter  of  this  sea  one 
should  turn,  in  order  to  gather  up  the  incidents  and 
associations,  which  shall  most  deeply  touch  the  heart, 
and  excite  the  imagination.  On  the  east,  these  beautiful, 
luxuriant  islands,  the  first  seen  and  visited,  where  the 
great,  the  noble,  the  generous-hearted  discoverer  was 
received  as  a  god  by  the  simple  and  hospitable  natives, 


88  SHORES  OF  THE  COLUMBIAN  SEA. 

and  afterwards  calumniated,  oppressed,  deserted  by  his 
friends,  and  left  by  his  envious  foes  to  pine  a  whole 
year  on  the  shores  of  Jamaica,  with  no  shelter  but  the 
wreck  of  his  last  vessel — where  too  he  was  shamefully 
imprisoned,  and  then  sent  home  in  chains?  deprived  of 
his  honors  and  his  rights.  On  the  west,  the  golden 
regions  of  Mexico,  where  the  Montezumas  reigned  with 
a  degree  of  splendor  rivalling  the  most  brilliant  dynas- 
ties of  the  Old  World — where  civilization,  and  the  arts 
of  refinement,  were  enjoyed  to  a  degree  unknown  to 
many  of  the  most  powerful  nations  of  antiquity — where 
pyramids,  temples,  and  palaces,  whose  extent  and  mag- 
nificence might  have  vied  with  those  of  Egypt  and 
Syria,  still  remain  in  ruins  to  attest  the  departed  glory 
of  the  Astec  races — and  where  the  marvellous,  the 
scarcely  credible  adventures  of  Cortes,  and  his  little 
band  of  brave  invaders,  brought  desolation  and  wo  on 
all  that  sunny  region.  On  the  south,  the  great  conti- 
nent, the  scene  of  similar  adventures — the  theatre  of 
oppression,  of  civil  discord,  of  revolution,  of  a  perpetual 
struggle  for  power,  but,  it  may  be  hoped,  ere  long  of 
republican  liberty.  On  the  north — what  shall  I  say — 
the  fairest  and  best  portion  of  the  wide  earth — the  home 
of  liberty — the  home  of  our  fathers — in  a  word,  which 
contains  a  depth  of  meaning  that  belongs  to  no  other 
in  any  language — home  ! 

How  wonderfully  have  these  shores  changed  hands 
and  masters,  since  the  day  when  Columbus  gave  them 
all  to  Spain.  What  has  she  now  left  ?  The  entire 
continent  of  South  America,  the  golden  regions  of  the 
Isthmus,  the  broad  savannahs  of  Florida,  and  the 
boundless  prairies  of  the    great  west,  have  all  been 


WONDERFUL  CHANGES.  89 

wrested  from  her  iron  and  oppressive  rule.  And,  of  all 
that  rich  cluster  of  islands,  that  lie  along  the  eastern 
boundary  of  this  great  sea — only  Cuba  and  Porto  Rico 
now  acknowledge  her  sway.  How  bitterly  the  wrongs 
she  inflicted  upon  the  hapless  natives  of  these  fair 
lands,  have  recoiled  upon  her  own  head,  and  upon  the 
heads  of  all  her  representatives  in  the  New  World. 
Scarcely  for  one  moment  have  they  held  any  of  their  ill- 
gotten  possessions  in  peace.  Revolt  and  revolution  have 
swept  over  them  in  quick  succession,  like  the  Sirocco 
of  the  desert,  burying  millions  of  merciless  oppressors  in 
the  same  graves  with  the  millions  of  the  oppressed. 
Anarchy,  confusion,  bloodshed,  and  civil  discord  and 
commotion,  have  been  the  lot  of  their  inheritance.  And 
even  to  this  day,  except  in  the  islands  above  named, 
wherever  the  Spanish  race  remains  in  the  ascendancy, 
the  seat  of  its  power  is,  as  it  were,  the  crater  of  a  vol- 
cano, where  society,  no  less  than  the  earth,  heaves  and 
groans  and  trembles  with  the  throes  of  inward  convul- 
sion. Look  yonder,  as  we  near  the  shores  of  Mexico. 
Clouds  of  dust  and  smoke — the  thunders  of  artillery, 
the  falling  of  successive  dynasties,  mingle  with  the  ter- 
rible din  of  the  earthcruake,  and  the  sulphureous  belch- 
ings  of  subterraneous  fires,  and  send  up  their  angry 
shouts,  and  voices  of  wailing  to  the  skies,  till  the 
whole  civilized  world  is  disturbed  by  their  incessant 
broils.  How  long  shall  it  be  ?  When  shall  this  land 
have  rest  ?  When  shall  the  curse  of  war,  which  has 
been  laid  upon  it  for  so  many  centuries,  be  revoked  ? 
Heaven  speed  the  day. 

There  are  some  features  which  have  been  noticed 
by  voyagers,  as  peculiar  to  these  waters.     Whether  they 


90  ARRIVAL  AT  VERA  CRUZ. 

do  not  belong  to  inland  seas,  and  to  bays  and  gulfs 
generally,  my  personal  observation  does  not  enable  me 
to  determine.  The  color  of  the  water  is  a  less  decided 
blue  than  that  of  the  ocean.  This  phenomenon  I  am 
at  a  loss  to  explain,  having  always  supposed  that  the 
color  of  the  sea  was  only  the  reflection  of  the  azure 
depths  of  the  sky,  and  that,  consequently,  in  the  clear 
atmosphere,  and  the  deep  blue  heavens,  of  the  tropics, 
it  would  show  a  deeper  tinge  of  cerulean  than  else- 
where. 

It  is  also  remarked  that  there  is  seldom  known  here, 
the  long  equable  swell,  and  gentle  undulation,  of  the 
open  ocean,  but  a  short  pitchy  sea,  which,  in  small 
craft,  is  very  disagreeable,  but  is  less  noticeable  in  the 
larger  class  of  vessels.  The  gulf  is  subject  to  period- 
ical calms  in  the  summer,  and  to  violent  gales  from  the 
north  in  the  autumnal  months.  Of  the  Chapote,  an 
asphaltic  ebullition  on  the  surface  of  the  sea,  I  shall 
speak  more  fully  in  another  place,  in  connection  with 
a  similar  phenomenon  observed  in  the  lakes  of  Mexico. 

We  arrived  at  Vera  Cruz  on  the  15th  of  February. 
The  voyage  proved  agreeable — especially  to  those  of 
our  party  who  were  subject  to  sea-sickness,  and  who 
could  therefore  well  appreciate  their  entire  freedom  from 
the  unpalatable,  and  often  ludicrous  effects  produced  by 
the  unceremonious  movement  of  the  waves,  when  un- 
controlled by  the  irresistible  agency  of  steam.  Indeed, 
we  all  felt  strongly  convinced,  that  steam  navigation  is 
the  ne  plus  ultra  of  travelling  at  sea. 

Long  before  we  made  the  land,  the  grand  and  lofty 
peak  of  Orizaba,  with  its  spotless  mantle  of  eternal 
snow,  rearing  its  hoary  head  seventeen  thousand  feet 


'M 


< 

< 
IS 

3 

o 
o 


SAN  JUAN  DE  ULLOA. 


91 


above  us,  presented  itself  to  our  view.  The  highest 
ranges  of  the  Alleghanies,  and  the  lofty  summits  of  the 
Catskill,  of  my  own  country,  were  familiar  to  my  boy- 
ish days — but,  I  was  little  prepared  to  behold  a  scene 
like  this — a  scene  which  caused  the  wonders  of  my 
childhood  to  dwindle  almost  into  nothing.  Art,  with 
all  her  charms,  may,  and  often  does,  disappoint  us — 
but  Nature,  never.  The  conception  of  Him  who  laid 
the  foundations  of  the  mountains,  cannot  be  approached 
even  by  the  most  aspiring  flight  of  the  imagination. 


CASTLE  OF  SAN  JUAN  DE  TXLiOA. 


The  first  object  that  strikes  the  eye,  in  approaching 
Vera  Cruz  by  water,  is  the  Castle  of  San  Juan  de  Ulloa, 
with  the  spires  and  domes  of  the  churches  peering  up 
in  the  distance  behind  it.  It  stands  alone,  upon  a  small 
rocky  island,  on  one  side  of  the  main  entrance  to  the 
harbor,  and  only  about  half  a  mile  from  the  wall  of  the 
city,  and  consequently  has  complete  command  of  the 
port.     The  entrance  on  the  other  side,  is  so  barred  with 


92  THE  HARBOR  AND  THE  CITY. 

broken  reefs  and  ledges,  that  it  can  only  be  used  by 
small  craft  in  favorable  weather. 

The  Castle  is  circular,  strongly  built,  and  heavily 
mounted.  Its  principal  strength,  however,  is  in  its 
position,  inaccessible  except  by  water,  and  its  guns 
pointing  every  way,  leave  no  side  open  to  the  attack 
of  an  enemy.  It  has  never  been  reduced  but  once,  and 
then  its  natural  ally,  the  city,  was  against  it.  The  sea 
was  in  the  hands  of  its  enemies,  and  all  communica- 
tion with  the  outer  world  was  cut  off.  It  held  out 
bravely  while  its  provisions  lasted,  and  then  yielded  to 
famine,  and  not  to  arms.  This  was  in  1829,  during  the 
last  dying  struggles  of  Spain  to  hold  on  to  her  revolted 
provinces  in  Central  America. 

Our  pilot  brought  us  to  anchor  in  the  harbor,  or 
roadstead,  under  the  walls  of  this  celebrated  old  castle, 
and  within  a  few  rods  of  the  landing.  An  unexpected 
visit  from  a  "  Norther,"  gave  me  an  opportunity  which 
would  not  otherwise  have  presented  itself,  of  paying  my 
respects  to  the  town. 

"  Vera  Cruz  Triunfante,"  the  Heroic  City,  as  it  is 
styled  in  all  public  documents,  in  consequence  of  the 
prowess  of  its  citizens  in  taking  the  Castle  San  Juan 
de  Ulloa,  which,  as  above  stated,  surrendered  from 
starvation,  lies  in  a  low,  sandy  shore  ;  and,  like  all 
American  Spanish  towns,  has  few  attractions  for  the 
stranger,  either  in  its  general  appearance,  or  in  the  style 
of  its  architecture.  The  town  is  laid  out  with  great 
regularity.  The  streets  are  broad  and  straight,  at  right 
angles  with  each  other,  and  are  well  paved,  which,  un- 
fortunately, is  more  than  can  be  said  of  many  of  the 
paved  cities  in  the  United  States.     The  side- walks  are 


HOUSES  AND  CHURCHES.  93 

covered  with  cement,  and  are  altogether  superior  to 
those  of  Havana.  The  houses  are  generally  well  con- 
structed to  suit  the  climate.  Many  of  them  are  large, 
some  three  stories  high,  built  in  the  old  Spanish  or 
Moorish  style,  and  generally  enclosing  a  square  court- 
yard, with  covered  galleries.  They  have  flat  roofs,  and 
parti-colored  awnings,  displaying  beneath  the  latter  a 
profusion  of  flowers. 

The  best  view  of  Yera  Cruz  is  from  the  water. 
There  are,  within  and  outside  the  walls,  seventeen 
church  establishments,  the  domes  or  cupolas  of  which 
may  be  seen  in  approaching  it  from  that  direction,  with 
quite  an  imposing  effect.  The  port  is  easy  of  access, 
but  very  insecure,  being  open  to  the  north,  and  conse- 
quently subject  to  the  terrible  "  northers,"  which,  in 
more  senses  than  one,  during  the  winter  season,  prove 
a  scourge  to  this  coast.  It  is  well  defended  by  a  strong 
fort,  situated  on  a  rock  of  the  island  of  St.  Juan  de 
Ulloa,  about  half  a  mile  distant.  The  name  of  this 
island,  and  the  castle  upon  it,  are  associated  with 
some  of  the  most  terrible  scenes  of  blood  and  cruelty, 
that  have  given  to  the  many  revolutionary  struggles  of 
that  ill-fated  country,  an  unenviable  pre-eminence 
of  horror. 

The  form  of  the  city  is  semi-circular,  fronting  the 
sea.  It  is  situated  on  an  arid  plain,  surrounded  by  sand 
hills,  and  is  very  badly  supplied  with  water, — the  chief 
reliance  being  upon  rain  collected  in  cisterns,  which  are 
often  so  poorly  constructed  as  to  answer  but  very  little 
purpose.  The  chief  resource  of  the  lower  classes,  is 
the  water  of  a  ditch,  so  impure  as  frequently  to  occa- 
sion disease.     An  attempt  was  made,  more  than  a  cen- 


94  SUBURBS — POPULATION. 

tury  ago,  to  remedy  this  evil,  by  the  construction  of  a 
stone  aqueduct  from  the  river  Xamapa ;  but,  unfortu- 
nately, after  a  very  large  sum  had  been  expended  on 
the  work,  it  was  discovered  that  the  engineer  who  pro- 
jected it,  had  committed  a  fatal  mistake,  in  not  ascer- 
taining the  true  level,  and  the  work  was  abandoned  in 
despair. 

The  outside  of  the  city  looks  solitary  and  miserable 
enough.  The  ruins  of  deserted  dwelling  houses,  dilap- 
idated public  edifices,  neglected  agriculture,  and  streets, 
once  populous  and  busy,  now  still  and  overgrown  with 
weeds,  give  an  air  of  melancholy  to  the  scene,  which  it 
is  absolutely  distressing  to  look  upon,  and  which  the 
drillings  of  the  soldiery,  and  "  all  the  pomp  and  circum- 
stance" of  warlike  parade,  were  insufficient  to  dispel. 

The  population  of  this  place  is  now  about  six  thou- 
sand. In  1842,  two  thousand  died  of  black  vomit,  the 
greater  portion  of  whom  were  the  poor,  half-enslaved 
Indians,  brought  from  their  healthy  mountain  homes,  to 
serve  as  soldiers  on  the  deadly  coast.  This  dreadful 
scourge  made  its  appearance  on  the  continent  of  Amer- 
ica, in  1699,  where  it  was  introduced  by  an  English 
ship  from  the  coast  of  Africa,  loaded  with  slaves ; 
inflicting  upon  the  country,  at  the  same  instant,  two  of 
the  greatest  curses  which  the  arch-enemy  of  our  race 
could  have  devised.  The  infectious  disease  we  cannot 
lay  to  the  charge  of  England.  It  was  one  of  those 
accidents  which  can  only  be  referred  to  the  mysterious 
visitations  of  that  all-wise,  but  inscrutable  providence, 
which  rules  over  all  the  affairs  of  our  little  world.  But 
for  the  other,  and  not  less  hideous  evil,  the  introduction 
of  slavery,  that   Government  is  directly  responsible; 


HEALTH — EARLY  HISTORY.  95 

and,  however  high  and  noble  the  principles  of  benevo- 
lence, by  which  the  present  race  of  Englishmen  are 
actuated  in  their  endeavors  to  procure  universal  eman- 
cipation, it  ill  becomes  them  to  reproach  us,  or  our 
fathers,  for  the  existence  of  a  curse  among  us,  which 
their  own  government  forced  upon  us,  and  their  own 
fathers  supplied  and  sustained,  with  a  zeal  and  perse- 
verance worthy  of  a  better  cause.  Ages  of  penance 
and  contrition,  will  not  wipe  out  this  dark  stain  from 
the  British  escutcheon. 

Vera  Cruz  is  more  subject  to  the  yellow  fever,  than 
perhaps  any  other  place  on  the  coast.  This  is  chiefly 
owing  to  the  filthy  ditch  before  spoken  of,  from  which 
the  lower  classes  are  compelled  to  obtain  a  part  of  their 
supply  of  water,  and  to  the  pools  of  stagnant  water, 
which  abound  among  the  sand  hills  in  the  vicinity.  If 
these  could  be  drained  off,  and  the  city  supplied  with 
wholesome  water,  there  can  be  no  doubt  it  would  fare 
as  well  in  the  matter  of  health,  as  any  other  place  on 
the  coast,  instead  of  being  regarded,  as  it  is  now,  by 
the  Spanish  physicians,  as  the  source  and  fountain-head 
of  yellow  fever  for  the  whole  country.  There  is  scarcely 
any  season  of  the  year  exempt  from  its  ravages,  but  it 
prevails  most  in  the  rainy  season,  particularly  in  Sep- 
tember and  October. 

The  history  of  Vera  Cruz,  as  a  place  of  importance 
to  the  Spaniards,  commences  with  the  very  first  steps 
of  the  conquest.  The  name  of  San  Juan  de  Ulloa, 
was  given  to  the  island  where  the  Castle  now  stands, 
by  Grijalva,  on  his  pioneer  visit  to  the  place,  in  1518, 
where  he  was  so  roughly  handled  by  the  "  natives." 
Cortes,  after  touching  at  Cozumel,  made  a  landing  at 


96  OLD  AND  NEW  TOWNS. 

this  place,  in  1519.  He  afterwards  laid  the  foundation 
of  a  colony  in  the  vicinity,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river 
Antigua.  It  was  from  this  point  that  he  set  out  on  his 
adventurous  march  to  the  capital  of  the  Astec  empire — 
an  adventure  seemingly  the  most  rash  and  ill  advised, 
hut  in  its  results,  the  most  triumphant,  in  the  annals  of 
history. 

The  present  site  of  Vera  Cruz,  which  was  founded 
by  Count  de  Monterey,  near  the  close  of  the  sixteenth 
century,  and  is  sometimes,  by  way  of  distinction,  called 
Vera  Cruz  Nueva,  is  not  the  same  as  that  of  the  ancient 
city,  planted  by  Cortes.  That  was  situated  fifteen 
miles  to  the  north  from  the  city  of  our  day,  and  was 
called  "  La  Villa  Rica  de  la  Vera  Cruz " — The  rich 
town  of  the  true  cross.  The  harbor  of  the  old  town  is 
far  better  than  that  of  the  new,  which,  in  fact,  is  no 
harbor  at  all,  but  an  open  roadsted,  exposed  to  every 
blast  from  the  north.  No  good  reason  has  been  assigned 
for  the  removal.  One  historian  has  suggested  that  it 
was  owing  to  the  unhealthiness  of  the  old  town.  If 
so,  it  is  no  mean  illustration  of  the  sagacity  of  the 
unfortunate  fish,  that,  in  attempting  to  escape  his  inev- 
itable fate,  "jumped  out  of  the  frying-pan  into  the  fire." 


CHAPTER    VI. 

SANTA  ANNA  DE  TAMAULIPAS,  AND    ITS    VICINITY. 

The  old  and  new  towns. — The  French  Hotel. — Early  history 
of  the  place. — Remains  of  an  ancient  Indian  town. — Situa- 
tion of  Pueblo  Nuevo. — Health  of  the  place. — Commerce. — 
Smuggling. — Corruption  in  Public  Offices. — Letters  and 
Mails. — Architecture. — Expense  of  living. — Tone  of  morals. 
Gaming. — The  soldiery. — Degraded  condition  of  the  Indians. 
— The  Cargadores. — The  market  place. — Monument  to  Santa 
Anna. — The  Bluff. — Pueblo  Viejo. — Visit  to  the  ruins. — 
Desolate  appearance  of  the  place. — "  La  Fuente." — Return 
at  sunset. — The  Rancheros  of  Mexico. — The  Arrieros. 

On  the  17th  of  February,  we  bade  adieu  to  Vera  Cruz, 
and  sailed  along  the  coast,  northwardly,  for  Tampico, 
distant  over  two  hundred  miles.  The  passage  was  a 
very  favorable  one ;  and  we  arrived  at  our  destination 
on  the  evening  of  the  following  day.  Coming  to 
anchor  outside  the  bar,  a  launch  from  the  shore,  man- 
ned by  naked  Indians,  was  soon  at  our  service,  to  take 
us  up  to  the  city.  It  was  a  pull  of  six  miles  on  the 
river  Panuco.  On  our  way  up,  we  passed  Pueblo  Viejo, 
or  the  old  town  of  Tampico,  on  our  left,  once  a  place 
of  considerable  trade,  but  now  deserted,  and  compara- 
tively in  ruins.    Two  miles  above  this  place,  we  landed 

9 


98  EARLY  HISTORY  OF  TAMPICO. 

at  the  mole,  as  it  is  called,  where  our  luggage  under- 
went the  usual  vexatious  examinations ;  after  which, 
permission  was  given  us  to  enter  the  town  of  Santa 
Anna  de  Tamaulipas,  known  also  as  the  Pueblo  Nuevo, 
or  New  Town  of  Tampico. 

I  was  soon  ensconced  in  a  hotel,  kept  by  a  French- 
man. It  was  a  sad  place.  The  accommodations,  if  such 
a  word  can,  with  any  propriety,  be  used  in  reference 
to  such  a  house,  were  as  uninviting  as  could  be  desired. 
The  house  was,  in  all  respects,  uncomfortable  and 
dirty,  and  the  charges  $2,  50  per  day.  But  a  shelter,  in 
this  country,  though  a  poor  one,  is  something  to  be 
thankful  for ;  and,  in  the  almost  universal  absence  of 
comfort,  one  often  has  occasion  to  be  grateful  for  any 
thing  that  bears  a  distant  resemblance  to  it.  With  this 
kind  of  philosophy,  I  endeavored  to  console  myself  in 
the  present  instance,  remembering  that  my  situation  was 
not  quite  as  bad  as  it  might  be,  nor  indeed  as  it  often- 
times had  been  in  other  places. 

Santa  Anna  de  Tamaulipas  stands  on  what  was 
once  the  site  of  a  populous  Indian  town,  which  was 
first  visited  by  Juan  de  Grijalva,  in  1518.  This  "  hope- 
ful young  man  and  well  behaved,"  as  he  is  described 
by  one  of  the  old  historians,  was  the  captain  of  the 
second  expedition,  sent  from  Cuba,  to  explore  the  large 
and  rich  islands,  as  they  were  then  supposed  to  be, 
lying  to  the  west,  part  of  which  were  discovered  by 
Columbus  in  1502  and  1503,  and  part  by  Juan  Dias  de 
Solis  and  Vincent  Yafiez  Pinzon,  in  1506.  At  this 
place,  Grijalva  had  a  severe  conflict  with  the  "  natives," 
who  defended  "  their  altars  and  their  homes  "  with  great 
bravery.     The  old  historians  of  the  conquest  agree  that 


SITUATION HEALTH.  99 

Cortes,  who  followed  Grijalva,  and  finally  succeeded  in 
reducing  the  whole  country  to  the  Spanish  yoke,  met 
with  a  warm  reception  on  the  Panuco.  Few  places 
Were  more  ably  defended,  or  more  relunctantly  sur- 
rendered by  the  Indians. 

But  few  traces  remain  of  the  ancient  city,  or  of  its 
brave  inhabitants.  Yet  occasionally,  in  digging  for  the 
foundations  of  buildings  recently  erected,  the  bones,  and 
sometimes  complete  skeletons,  of  that  unfortunate  race 
are  found,  as  well  as  remains  of  their  household  utensils. 

Fifteen  years  ago,  this  place  was  occupied  only  by 
a  few  Indian  huts,  and  Pueblo  Viejo,  the  old  town,  was 
in  its  most  flourishing  condition.  But  the  superior  ad- 
vantages of  this  position  were  too  apparent  to  be  longer 
overlooked  by  the  searching  eye  of  commercial  enter- 
prise. The  bank  of  the  river  is  very  bold,  and  the 
water  of  sufficient  depth  to  allow  vessels  to  anchor 
close  to  the  shore ;  and  the  navigation  inland  is  unin- 
terrupted for  more  than  a  hundred  miles.  The  town  is 
laid  out  in  regular  squares.  The  site  is  a  sort  of  low 
flat  shelf  of  land,  forming  the  terminus  of  a  rocky 
peninsula,  above  and  back  of  which  there  is  a  cluster 
of  lakes  or  ponds,  having  an  outlet  into  the  Panuco. 
These  ponds,  like  those  in  the  vicinity  of  Yera  Cruz, 
are  fruitful  of  yellow  fever,  which  annually  ravages 
this  devoted  coast.  This  terrible  scourge,  which  seems 
to  be  one  of  the  settled  perquisites  of  the  place,  together 
with  the  formidable  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  are 
serious  drawbacks  to  the  prosperity  of  the  town.  Were 
it  possible  to  remove  them,  I  think  there  is  little  doubt 
that  Santa  Anna  de  Tamaulipas  would  soon  become  one 
of  the  most  flourishing  seaport  towns  in  Mexico.      Its 


100  COMMERCE SMUGGLING. 

local  situation  is  favorable — it  is  the  nearest  point  on 
the  coast  to  the  richest  of  the  mining  districts,  and  the 
place  from  which  the  greater  portion  of  the  specie  is 
exported.  It  has  also  a  considerable  business  in  dye- 
woods  and  hides. 

But  the  commerce  of  Santa  Anna  de  Tamaulipas 
has  been  declining  for  several  years,  and,  unless  some 
new  impulse  is  given  to  it,  by  some  such  improvements 
as  are  above  suggested,  it  must  continue  to  decline. 
The  little  business  that  is  now  done  there,  is  chiefly  in 
the  hands  of  foreigners. 

Smuggling  was  once  carried  on  here  to  a  very  great 
extent ;  but  the  severe  and  stringent  regulations  of  the 
government,  have  nearly  succeeded  in  breaking  it  up. 
Or,  to  speak  with  more  perfect  accuracy,  the  business 
has  changed  hands,  and  that,  which  was  before  done 
through  the  venality  of  the  subordinates,  is  now  carried 
on  by  the  direct  connivance  of  the  heads  of  the  de- 
partments, who  have  contrived  to  monopolize  to  them- 
selves this  lucrative  traffic,  and  thus,  by  robbing  the 
government,  to  enrich  themselves  and  the  merchants  at 
the  same  time.  There  is  probably  no  country  in  the 
world,  where  there  is  such  utter  destitution  of  good 
faith  and  common  honesty,  on  the  part  of  those  who 
contrive  to  secure  the  offices  of  trust.  It  is  a  remark 
of  almost  universal  application,  though  it  will  probably 
apply  with  peculiar  emphasis  to  the  custom  house 
department,  where  the  largest  amount  of  spoils  are 
necessarily  to  be  found.  The  most  glaring  cases  of 
fraud  are  constantly  occurring.  Thousands  of  dollars 
are  weekly  passed  over  to  the  officials,  which  never 
find  their  way  into  the  treasury ;  and  thousands  that 


FOREIGN  LETTERS MAILS.  101 

have  gone  in  are  missing,  having  never  honestly  found 
their  way  out.  But  little  attention  is  paid  to  these 
instances  of  corruption.  The  criminals,  though  well 
known,  are  allowed  to  retain  their  stations ;  or,  if  by 
chance  removed,  through  the  complaints  of  those  who 
are  eager  to  step  into  their  places,  they  are  only  ele- 
vated to  more  important  and  lucrative  offices,  where 
they  have  a  wider  field  of  operation,  and  a  better 
chance  to  serve  themselves,  and  those  ivho  appointed 
them.  How  far  we  of  the  United  States  may  be 
placing  ourselves  in  the  condition  of  those  who  live  in 
glass  houses,  by  thus  throwing  stones  at  the  Mexicans, 
I  know  not.  But  it  is  my  candid  opinion,  shrewd  and 
cunning  as  we  are  allowed  to  be  in  all  matters  of 
finance,  that  we  are  quite  out-done  in  these  matters  by 
our  more  southern  neighbors. 

Letters  arriving  or  departing  by  ship,  cannot  be  de- 
livered, without  first  passing  through  the  Post  Office. 
The  charges,  which  are  very  high,  are  regulated  by 
weight,  as  under  the  new  system  in  the  United  States. 
No  captain,  or  consignee,  is  permitted  to  receive  a  let- 
ter, without  the  government  stamp,  under  a  heavy 
penalty.  Whether  the  same  restriction  and  penalty  is 
laid  upon  passengers  and  travellers,  I  am  not  informed  ; 
but  it  would  be  very  difficult  to  carry  them  without 
observation,  as  every  nook  and  corner  of  every  trunk, 
box,  or  bag,  is  searched,  as  well  as  the  linings  of  every 
article  of  dress,  and  even  of  your  boots  and  shoes.  All 
letters  are  liable  to  seizure  and  inspection,  and  they  are 
often  broken,  when  any  cause  of  jealousy  or  suspicion 
arises.  The  ordinary  mails  in  the  northern  part  of  the 
country,  are  more  regular  than  rapid,  being,  for  the 


102  BUILDINGS TONE  OF  MORALS. 

most  part,  transported  on  the  backs  of  the  Indians.  Of 
course,  neither  money,  nor  valuable  documents  of  any 
kind,  are  entrusted  to  this  conveyance.  An  armed  con- 
ducta  performs  this  service  between  the  mines  and 
the  capital,  and  between  the  capital  and  the  principal 
seaports. 

In  the  buildings  of  Santa  Anna  de  Tamaulipas,  there 
is  no  uniformity  of  style,  and  no  pretensions  to  beauty. 
American,  English,  and  Spanish,  are  intermingled  with 
the  rude  hut  of  the  Indian.  The  population  is  as  mot- 
ley and  heterogeneous  as  can  well  be  conceived ;  and 
with  the  variety  of  feature,  expression,  manners,  cos- 
tume and  no  costume,  ranks  under  what  may  be  termed 
the  "picturesque. 

Notwithstanding  the  gradual  decline  of  business 
here,  rents  and  wages  are  extremely  high,  and  the 
prices  paid  for  every  article  of  consumption  are  so  enor- 
mous, that  I  should  scarcely  be  believed  if  I  should 
name  them.  And  this,  too,  among  a  beggarly-looking, 
half-naked  population.  The  average  range  of  the  ther- 
mometer is  from  86°  to  92°. 

As  might  be  expected,  from  what  has  been  said 
already,  the  general  tone  of  morals  in  society  is  by  no 
means  elevated.  The  native,  or  Creole  population,  are, 
for  the  most  part,  shamefully  ignorant  and  debased, 
and,  with  few  exceptions,  destitute  of  moral  principle. 
They  are  extremely  jealous  of  foreigners,  and  seem  to 
regard  every  stranger  coming  among  them  as  an  un- 
welcome intruder.  As  far  as  I  had  an  opportunity  of 
judging,  which  was  not  inconsiderable,  I  should  say 
that,  as  a  race,  they  are  as  destitute  of  ambition  to  im- 
prove, as  they  are  of  education.     There  is  no  taste 


GAMBLING  ALMOST  UNIVERSAL.  103 

among  them  for  the  cultivation  of  the  fine  arts,  "which 
once  flourished  in  this  ill-fated  country ;  whether  among 
the  remote  ancestors  of  the  present  Indian  tribes,  or 
among  other  and  nobler  races  of  men,  it  is  not  easy 
now  to  decide. 

The  almost  universal  resource  of  the  Creoles,  is  the 
gaming  table,  at  which  numbers  of  them  spend  a  large 
portion  of  their  time.  In  this  miserable  and  demoral- 
izing recreation,  I  am  sorry  to  be  obliged  to  say,  that 
the  "  natives "  are  not  the  only  sharers.  Strangers, 
who  resort  here  for  business,  whether  English,  Ameri- 
can, Spanish  or -French,  with  a  few  rare  and  honorable 
exceptions,  sustain  and  encourage  them  by  their  exam- 
ple. Large  amounts  are  sometimes  lost  and  won, 
though,  for  the  most  part,  the  stakes  are  light ;  the  pas- 
sion being  rather  for  gaming,  and  its  attendant  excite- 
ments, than  for  winning. 

The  Indians,  another  and  inferior  class  of  natives, 
though  nominally  free,  are  in  fact  slaves.  They  are 
the  drudges  and  bearers  of  burdens,  for  the  whole  com- 
munity. They  are  ignorant,  indolent  and  unthrifty  to 
the  last  degree,  and  seem  to  have  no  idea  of  the  possi- 
bility of  bettering  their  condition.  Like  their  superiors, 
they  are  much  addicted  to  gaming,  though  necessarily 
on  a  very  limited  scale.  In  their  condition  of  desperate 
poverty,  they  have  little  to  lose  ;  but  that  little  is  daily 
put  at  stake,  and  lost,  or  rather  thrown  away,  with  as 
much  coolness  and  indifference,  as  if  the  inexhaustible 
mines  of  their  golden  mountains  were  all  their  own. 
And  it  not  unfrequently  happens,  that,  having  lost  his 
last  mai'avedi,  he  stakes  himself  upon  another  throw, 
and  becomes  the  temporary  slave  of  the  winner.     The 


104  THE  SOLDIERY. 

laws,  though  they  do  not  recognize  slavery  in  the  ab- 
stract, are  so  constructed,  as  to  admit  of  this  arrange- 
ment. The  consequence  is,  that  vast  numbers,  whom 
indolence  or  improvidence  have  reduced  to  the  neces- 
sity of  running  in  debt  to  their  white  neighbors,  are  as 
truly  slaves,  as  they  were  before  the  revolution. 

It  is  from  the  native  Indians,  that  the  rank  and  file 
of  the  Mexican  army  is,  for  the  most  part,  supplied.  A 
greater  burlesque  upon  the  name  of  a  soldier  can  scarcely 
be  conceived — a  debased,  insolent,  drunken,  half-naked 
rabble,  in  comparison  with  which  Colonel  Pluck's 
famous  regiment  would  have  made  a  display  so  bril- 
liant, as  to  make  all  Philadelphia  stare.  It  is  a 
marvel  to  me  how  they  can  accomplish  any  thing  with 
such  a  miserable  set  of  ill-appointed,  semi-civilized 
beings,  especially,  when  their  enlistment  is  for  the  most 
part  compulsory,  while  they  fight  for  self-constituted, 
tyrannical,  unfeeling  masters,  and  not  for  themselves,  or 
their  children.  I  should  suppose  that  a  single  company 
of  well  disciplined  Anglo-Saxon  soldiers,  would  be  more 
than  a  match  for  an  ordinary  Mexican  army.  If  it 
was  with  such  regiments  as  these,  that  Santa  Anna 
undertook  to  reduce  the  refractory  province  of  Texas, 
it  is  no  matter  of  surprise  that  a  handful  of  Yankee 
adventurers  were  able,  not  only  to  keep  him  at  bay,  but 
to  put  him,  and  his  army  of  scarecrows,  completely  to 
route. 

The  Indian,  as  I  have  before  remarked,  is  the  abject 
slave  of  the  Mexican;  and  upon  him  devolves  every 
kind  of  menial  labor.  The  "  Cargadores,"  who  act  as 
porters,  are  seen  in  all  the  streets.  They  carry  the 
heaviest  burdens,  such   as  bales,  barrels,  boxes,  etc. 


MARKET  PLACE MONUMENT  TO  SANTA  ANNA.    105 

upon  their  backs ;  dray  and  draft  horses  being  un- 
known here.  Others  are  seen  in  the  market  places, 
and  lying  about  the  public  streets,  houseless,  and  almost 
naked,  objects  at  once  of  pity  and  disgust  to  those  un- 
accustomed to  such  sights.  No  means  are  employed, 
and  no  desire  manifested,  on  the  part  of  their  superiors, 
to  improve  their  character  or  condition.  Politically,  the 
Mexican  regards  them  as  his  equals,  while  he  treats 
them  far  worse  than  even  the  English  do  their  slaves, 
either  at  home  or  abroad. 

The  Market  Place  of  Tampico  is  a  rude  open  square, 
without  embellishment,  natural  or  artificial,  one  corner 
of  which  is  occupied  with  stalls  or  tables,  for  meats 
and  vegetables,  which  are  guarded  and  dealt  out  by  as 
motley  a  set  of  beggars  as  I  had  ever  seen,  as  uninvi- 
ting group  of  caterers  as  can  well  be  imagined.  The 
terriers  at  home  can  little  realize  the  many  disagreeable 
offsets  to  the  pleasure  one  derives  from  visiting  foreign 
lands  ;  while  the  traveller  learns,  by  a  painful  daily 
experience,  to  appreciate  all  the  little  conveniences  and 
proprieties,  as  well  as  the  thousand  substantial  comforts 
of  home. 

In  the  centre  of  this  square,  a  monument  is  to  be 
erected  in  honor  of  the  celebrated  General  Santa  Anna, 
commemorating  his  successful  encounter  with  the  old 
Spanish  forces,  in  this  place,  in  the  year  1829,  during 
the  last  struggles  of  Mexico  to  throw  off  the  yoke  of 
Spain,  and  establish  an  independent  government.  The 
foundation  of  this  monument  is  finished,  and  the 
builders  are  waiting  the  arrival  of  the  column  from 
New  York,  where,  as  I  was  informed,  Italian  artists  are 
employed  in  completing  it.     It  is  intended  to  be  worthy 


106  A  NATIONAL  DILEMMA. 

of  the  name  of  the  distinguished  man  in  whose  honor 
it  is  reared,  and  of  the  event  which  it  is  designed  to 
commemorate.  How  the  two  can  be  fitly  blended  in 
one  inscription,  it  is  difficult  to  conceive.  The  victory 
which  Santa  Anna  achieved  over  the  Spanish  oppres- 
sors of  the  struggling  province,  may  indeed  have  a 
claim  to  be  recorded  on  the  enduring  marble ;  but,  for 
the  honor  due  to  a  name  like  that  of  the  exiled  hero 
of  San  Jacinto,  a  name  so  long  associated  with  every 
species  of  tyranny  and  oppression,  of  treason  to  his 
country,  and  of  treachery  alike  to  friend  and  to  foe — 
how  shall  it  be  appropriately  expressed?  In  what 
terms  of  mingled  eulogium  and  execration  shall  it  be 
couched?  "  The  name  and  the  event  !"  It  will 
doubtless  be  an  easy  matter  to  frame  an  inscription 
suitable  to  the  event — but  to  illustrate  the  glory  of  the 
name — hoc  opus,  his  labor  est. 

In  a  state  of  society  like  that  which  has  existed  in 
Mexico,  for  many  years  past,  it  would  seem  a  difficult 
task  to  erect  monuments  to  illustrate  the  services  of 
their  great  men.  Revolution  succeeding  revolution, 
and  dynasty  chasing  dynasty,  in  rapid  succession  like 
the  waves  of  the  sea,  a  successful  leader  has  scarcely 
time  to  reach  the  post  his  high  ambition  has  aimed  at, 
and  procure  a  decree  for  a  triumph  and  a  monument, 
before  a  rival  faction  has  obtained  possession  of  all  the 
outposts,  and  begins  t6  thunder  under  the  walls  of  the 
capital.  One  after  another,  they  have  risen,  and  fallen} 
and  passed  away,  some  of  them  for  ever,  and  some  only 
to  rise  again  with  more  rapid  strides,  and  then  to  expe- 
rience a  more  ruinous  fall,  than  before.  The  monument 
which  was  begun  yesterday  in  honor  of  one  successful 


THE  BLUFF.  107 

hero,  may,  to-morrow,  be  consecrated  to  the  victory  won 
over  him  by  his  enemy ;  and  then,  perhaps,  be  thrown 
down  to  give  place  to  another,  which  commemorates  the 
overthrow  of  both. 

How  many  times  the  government  of  Mexico  is  des- 
tined to  be  overturned  and  remodeled,  before  the  com- 
pletion of  the  Tampico  monument,  and  what  will  be 
the  position  of  the  man  for  whose  honor  it  was  origi- 
nally designed,  when  the  column  shall  be  ready  to  be 
placed  on  its  pedestal,  it  would  be  hazardous  to  conjec- 
ture. It  may  not  be  unsafe,  however,  to  predict,  that 
neither  this,  nor  any  other  column,  or  statue,  erected  in 
Mexico,  will  confer  upon  Santa  Anna  a  greater  noto- 
riety than  he  now  enjoys,  or  in  any  way  alter  the 
world's  estimate  of  his  true  character.  Impartial  his- 
tory has  marred  the  beauty  of  many  a  monumental 
tablet,  and  converted  that  which  was  meant  for  glory, 
into  a  perpetual  memorial  of  shame. 

A  few  yards  from  the  Market  place  is  a  bold  bluff  of 
rock,  fronting  the  Panuco,  from  the  top  of  which  we 
have  an  extensive  view  of  the  surrounding  country. 
Near  this  place,  the  River  Tamissee,  which  drains  the 
adjacent  lagoons,  forms  its  junction  with  the  Panuco, 
which  sweeps  gracefully  along  from  the  southwest, 
broken  and  diversified  by  a  number  of  low  wooded 
islands,  which  disturb,  but  beautify  its  course. 

On  the  opposite  shore,  at  some  distance,  lies  the 
lagoon  of  Pueblo  Viejo,  and  beyond  that,  but  within 
sight  from  this  bluff,  the  ruins  of  the  old  town,  situated 
on  a  beautiful  plateau,  or  table  land,  flanked  by  the 
spires  of  the  Cordilleras. 

The  low  lands  of  the  suburbs  are  filled  with  rude 


108  PEUBLO  VIEJO. 

huts  of  the  Indians,  built  chiefly  of  bamboo,  and  cov- 
ered with  the  palm-leaf.  A  more  squalid  state  of  misery 
than  is  exhibited  among  this  class,  both  here  and  in  the 
town,  it  has  never  fallen  to  my  lot  to  witness. 

Not  satisfied  with  this  distant  view  of  the  ruins  of 
the  Pueblo  Viejo,  I  determined  to  form  a  nearer 
acquaintance  with  them,  by  a  personal  visit.  The 
American  Consul,  and  his  accomplished  lady,  very 
kindly  accompanied  me  thither,  in  a  canoe,  under  the 
guidance  of  an  Indian.  We  descended  the  Panuco  a 
short  distance,  and  passed  into  a  bayou  communicating 
with  one  of  the  great  lagoons,  near  which  the  old  town 
is  situated.  The  locale  is  decidedly  agreeable  and  pic- 
turesque. Though  in  the  uplands,  it  lies  at  the  foot  of 
a  steep  and  thickly  wooded  hill,  which  affords  a  variety 
of  romantic  retreats,  and  commanding  look-outs  for  the 
surrounding  country.  But,  however  much  they  might 
have  been  improved  and  valued  in  former  times,  they 
are  now  deserted,  and  forgotten.  An  almost  death-like 
tranquillity  reigns  in  the  forsaken  streets  and  environs, 
forming  a  melancholy  contrast  to  the  half  European, 
and  comparatively  bustling  aspect  of  its  now  more 
prosperous  rival. 

The  houses  are  low-built,  with  flat  roofs.  The  fa- 
cades of  some  of  them  show,  in  the  faded  gaiety,  and 
dubious  taste  of  their  coloring,  what  they  were  in  the 
palmy  days  of  the  Pueblo  Viejo's  early  glory.  Many 
of  them  had  court-yards  and  porticos.  One  group 
of  old  buildings,  of  Spanish  architecture,  situated 
near  the  humble  church  that  consecrated  the  public 
square,  shows  many  marks  of  its  ancient  grandeur, 
even  in  its  present  state  of  desolation  and  decay. 


LA  FUENTE.  109 

It  is  painful  to  stroll  through  the  streets  of  a  city  of  our 
own  times,  once  full  of  life  and  bustle,  but  now  falling 
into  the  decrepitude  of  a  premature  old  age.  It  is  like 
walking  among  the  sepulchres  of  the  living  ;  and  the 
few  signs  of  life  that  remain,  only  serve  to  give  inten- 
sity to  the  shadows  of  night  that  are  deepening  around 
it.  Here,  there  was  nothing  to  relieve  the  melancholy 
aspect  of  the  scene.  The  people,  both  masters  and 
slaves,  were  poor,  listless  and  inactive  ;  their  dwellings 
were  comfortless  and  uninviting,  and  their  lands  miser- 
ably neglected  and  unproductive.  A  death-like  incubus 
seemed  to  hang  on  the  whole  place. 

We  traversed  the  whole  length  of  the  streets,  through 
the  suburbs,  to  visit  "  La  Fuente,"  which  is  situated 
in  a  small  dell  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  which  overhangs 
the  town.  It  is  a  beautiful  spot,  ornamented  with 
every  variety  of  flower.  Its  source  was  concealed  from 
view.  "  La  Fuente  "  is  an  artificial  stone  reservoir,  of 
considerable  length,  beautifully  overshadowed  with 
trees,  from  whose  branches  depends  a  kind  of  curtain 
of  interwoven  vines,  falling  in  the  most  luxuriant 
festoons  on  every  side.  It  is  not  now,  as  perhaps  it  has 
been  in  former  days,  a  place  of  public  resort  for  recrea- 
tion. It  is  the  general  laundry  of  Tampico ;  and  its 
margin  is  daily  crowded,  not  with  sylphs  and  naiads, 
but  with  a  motley  set  of  Indian  women,  more  appro- 
priately compared  to  ancient  sybils,  or  modern  gypsies. 
It  was,  altogether,  the  most  remarkable  and  striking 
scene  that .  had  fallen  under  my  view  in  my  recent 
travels,  and  one  that  would  figure  well  in  the  hands  of 
the  author  of  the  «  Twice  Told  Tales,"  or  the  "  Char- 
coal   Sketches."     To  their  notice  I  commend  it,  with 

10 


110  RETURN  AT  SUNSET. 

free  license  to  make  what  use  they  please  of  my  poor 
description. 

The  sun  was  setting  when  we  returned  to  Santa 
Anna  de  Tamaulipas.  We  paddled  slowly  away,  paus- 
ing occasionally  to  admire— with  my  agreeable  com- 
panions— the  brilliant  effect  of  the  last  rays  of  day  light 
upon  the  lakes,  woods  and  mountains,  and  the  luxuriant 
foliage,  realizing  more  fully  than  I  had  ever  been  able 
to  do  before,  the  rare  beauty  of  those  remarkable  lines 
of  Beattie — 

Oh  !  how  canst  thou  renounce  the  boundless  store 

Of  charms  that  nature  to  her  votary  yields, 

The  warbling  woodland,  the  resounding  shore, 

The  pomp  of  groves,  and  garniture  of  fields, 

All  that  the  genial  ray  of  morning  gilds, 

And  all  that  echoes  to  the  song  of  even, 

All  that  the  mountain's  sheltering  bosom  shields, 

And  all  the  dread  magnificence  of  heaven — 

Oh !  how  canst  thou  renounce,  and  hope  to  be  forgiven  ! 

Winding  between  verdant  banks,  through  the  broken 
channel,  into  the  beautiful  Panuco,  we  reached  the 
mole  before  night-fall,  well  satisfied  with  the  adven- 
tures of  the  day. 

Before  leaving  the  town,  I  wish  to  introduce  to  the 
reader  two  classes  of  men,  who  are  somewhat  peculiar 
in  their  appearance,  characters  and  habits,  as  well  as 
somewhat  important  in  their  relations  to  the  business  of 
the  country. 

The  Rancheros  are  a  mixed  race  of  Mexican  and 
Indian  blood.  They  live  on  the  Ranchos,  or  large  cattle 
farms,  and  act  as  drovers.  They  are  brave,  and  full  of 
life  and  vivacity,  but  profoundly  ignorant  of  every  thing 


THE  ARRIEROS.  Ill 

beyond  their  immediate  occupations.  There  is  an  air 
of  independence,  and  a  fearlessness  of  manner,  in  the 
Ranchero,  which  is  quite  imposing.  Sallying  forth  on 
his  sinewy  horse,  encased  in  leather,  with  the  ready 
lasso  at  his  saddle  bow,  he  seems,  though  in  coarse 
attire,  the  embodiment  of  health,  strength  and  agility. 

The  Arrieros,  the  muleteers  of  the  country,  have 
their  peculiarities,  the  most  striking  of  which,  and  by 
far  the  most  agreeable,  is,  that  they  are  honest.  For 
this  virtue  they  are  proverbial,  as  indeed  they  should  be 
in  a  land  where  it  is  scarcely  known  in  any  other  class 
of  society.  Many  of  them  pride  themselves  much  upon 
their  vocation,  which  frequently  passes  down  from 
father  to  son,  through  several  generations.  They  are 
civil,  obliging  and  cheerful.  They  have,  as  a  class,  the 
entire  confidence  of  the  community,  and  millions  of 
property  are  confided  to  their  care.  Their  honesty  and 
trustworthiness  remain  unimpaired  amid  all  the  politi- 
cal changes  of  the  country.  Often  as  they  are  com 
pelled  to  change  masters,  they  serve  the  new  with  the 
same  fidelity  as  the  old,  and  a  stranger,  or  even  an 
enemy,  as  well  as  a  friend. 

Although  this  rigid  honesty  and  trustworthinesss,  in 
this  class  of  persons  in  Mexico,  is  worthy  of  remark  and 
of  all  praise,  I  take  pleasure  in  stating,  from  my  own 
personal  observation,  that  it  is  not  peculiar  to  that  coun- 
try. The  same  class  of  persons  in  many  parts  of  the 
United  States,  are  distinguished  for  the  same  virtue. 
Our  common  stage  drivers  and  mail  carriers,  although 
their  employment  is  of  the  hardiest  character,  and  their 
general  associations  such  as  to  expose  them  to  many  of 
the  worst  temptations  of  taverns,  bar-rooms,  and  other 


112  A  HOME  COMPRISON. 

kindred  influences,  are  as  well  known  for  their  integrity 
and  faithfulness,  in  the  trusts  committed  to  them,  as  for 
their  skill  and  fearlessness  in  the  management  of  their 
teams.  It  is  the  common  custom,  in  many  parts  of  the 
country,  to  employ  these  men  in  conveying  remittances 
from  the  interior,  to  the  hanks,  or  merchants,  in  the  sea- 
port towns.  Thousands  and  thousands  of  dollars  are 
daily  sent  in  this  way,  without  receipt  or  acknowledge- 
ment, and  with  perfect  reliance  on  the  faithfulness  of 
the  carrier.  And  I  do  not  remember  an  instance,  in 
that  part  of  the  country  where  I  have  been  most 
acquainted,  in  which  this  confidence  has  been  mis- 
placed. If  the  Mexican  Arriero  is  deserving  of  more 
credit  for  his  virtue,  in  consequence  of  the  inferior  tone 
of  morals  in  the  community  about  him,  we  would  not 
willingly  deprive  him  of  it.  At  the  same  time,  we  con- 
fess to  a  patriotic  pride  in  finding,  for  every  thing  that 
is  "lovely  and  of  good  report"  in  foreign  lands,  an 
offset  of  something  equally  good,  or  better,  at  home. 


mF*' 


CHAPTER    VII. 

CANOE  VOYAGE  UP   THE    RIVER    PANUCO.       RAMBLES    AMONG  THE 
RUINS  OF  ANCIENT  CITIES. 

An  independent  mode  of  travelling. — The  river  and  its  banks. — 
Soil  and  productions. — A  Yankee  brick  yard. — Indian  huts. — 
Their  manner  of  living. — Their  position  in  society. — Their 
dress,  stature  and  general  appearance. — Arrival  at  Topila 
Creek. — -Mr.  Coss'  rancho. — The  Lady's  Room. — Company 
at  night. — An  aged  Indian. — His  ignorance  of  the  past. — 
Mounds. — Ruins  of  an  ancient  town. — Rancho  de  las  Piedras. 
— Topila  Hills. — Numerous  Mounds. — An  ancient  well. — A 
wild  fig-tree. — Extensive  ruins. — An  evening  scene. — Attack 
of  the  Bandaleros. — Happy  escape. 

On  the  evening  of  the  14th  of  March,  1844,  I  took  a 
temporary  leave  of  Tampico,  and  proceeded  up  the 
river  Panuco,  with  the  intention  of  visiting,  and  as  far 
as  my  time  and  means  might  allow,  of  exploring  the 
ruins  then  known  to  exist,  and  of  seeking  others  which 
I  supposed  might  be  found,  in  that  vicinity.  My  mode 
of  conveyance  was  as  primitive  and  independent,  as 
can  well  be  imagined.  In  my  own  hired  canoe,  with 
an  Indian  to  paddle  me  along,  I  felt  that  I  was  master 
of  my  own  time  and  movements,  and  enjoyed,  for  a 
season,  a  perfect  freedom  from  the  ordinary  restraints 


114  THE   RIVER  PANUCO. 

and  responsibilities  of  social  life.  Leaving  care,  and 
business,  and  the  world  behind,  and  committing  my 
little  all  to  the  favoring  smiles  of  an  omnipresent  Provi- 
dence, I  threaded  my  way  through  the  circuitous  wind- 
ings of  that  romantic  stream,  with  a  resolute  purpose  to 
enjoy  every  thing,  and  be  annoyed  at  nothing,  however 
strange  it  might  be.  This  disposition  is  essential  to 
the  comfort  of  the  traveller,  in  any  strange  land,  and 
especially  in  one  that  is  barbarous,  or  semi-civilized ; 
and,  under  whatever  circumstances  it  is  put  in  requisi- 
tion, it  is  its  own  sufficient  reward. 

The  river  Panuco  rises  among  the  lakes  near  the 
city  of  Mexico,  and  winds  its  meandering  way,  under 
several  different  names,  the  principal  of  which  is 
"  Canada,"  till  it  debouches  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico, 
six  miles  below  Tampico.  It  is  navigable  about  one 
hundred  and  forty  miles,  for  all  vessels  that  can  pass 
the  bar  at  its  mouth  ;  and  yet,  owing  to  its  circuitous 
course,  the  distance  by  land,  from  this  head  of  naviga- 
tion to  Tampico,  is  not  more  than  forty  miles.  The 
river  seldom  swells  so  as  to  overflow  its  banks.  The 
land,  on  either  side,  was  found,  on  examination,  to  be  a 
deep,  rich  loam,-  capable  of  producing  corn,  sugar, 
tobacco  and  rice.  The  sugar  cane  found  in  this  region 
is  extremely  productive.  It  grows  in  height  from  four- 
teen to  twenty  feet,  and  requires  re-planting  but  once  in 
nine  or  ten  years.  It  will  be  a  glorious  region  for  ama- 
teur planters  and  speculators,  when  "  the  area  of  free- 
dom" shall  have  extended  to  the  Isthmus  of  Panama. 
Ebony,  rose-wood,  dye-woods  of  various  kinds,  and 
sarsaparilla,  are  cut  here  in  great  abundance,  and  are 
important  articles  of  exportation. 


A  YANKEE  BRICK  YARD.  115 

The  banks  of  this  river,  though  beautifully  arrayed 
in  the  verdure  of  nature,  want  that  humanizing  interest 
that  peculiar  utilitarian  charm,  which  cultivation  and 
occupation  alone  can  impart.  Our  progress,  therefore, 
though  always  presenting  something  -new  to  the  eye, 
seemed  comparatively  slow  and  tedious,  with  little  of 
life,  but  that  which  we  carried  along  with  us,  to  disturb 
its  quiet  monotony. 

As  the  evening  of  the  first  day  was  setting  in,  we 
stopped  at  a  brick  yard,  the  property  of  two  enterprising 
kind-hearted  Americans,  by  whom  we  were  hospitably 
entertained,  and  who  informed  us  that  our  day's  jour- 
ney had  been  made,  by  travelling  a  distance  of  eigh- 
teen miles.  The  new  town  of  Santa  Anna  de  Tamau- 
lipas,  brought  into  requisition,  and  gave  employment  to 
many  of  our  countrymen.  And,  when  the  making  of 
brick  became  lucrative,  our  good-natured  hosts  deter- 
mined to  lose  no  time  in  taking  advantage  of  the  occa- 
sion. The  adventure  was  accordingly  made,  and  a 
few  years'  thrift  has  placed  their  affairs  in  a  hopeful 
and  healthy  condition.  But,  like  all  other  foreigners  in 
this  country,  they  are  heartily  tired  of  remaining  here, 
and  are  looking  forward  with  much  anxiety  to  the 
happy  day,  when  they  shall  be  enabled  to  return  to 
their  native  land ;  for,  such  are  the  decrees  of  the  gov- 
ernment, that,  in  direct  violation  of  treaty,  an  open 
warfare  is  kept  up  against  the  rights  and  interests  of 
all  emigrants, — but,  more  particularly,  those  from  the 
United  States, — many  of  whom  are  sacrificing  their 
property  and  prospects  of  affluence,  and  leaving  the 
country  in  utter  disgust. 

Early  the  following  morning,  we  proceeded  on  our 


116         INDIANS THEIR  POSITION  IN  SOCIETY. 

course  up  the  river,  stopping,  occasionally,  to  visit  the 
rude  huts  of  the  Indians.  The  huts  are  formed  prin- 
cipally of  mud,  with  thatched  roofs,  and  present  a  most 
uncomfortable  appearance  ;  whilst  the  poor,  degenerated 
occupants,  derive  a  mean  and  scanty  support,  from  a 
small  strip  of  land  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  their 
chief  object  being  the  cultivation  of  corn  for  their  own 
use.  Pieces  of  clay,  put  rudely  together  and  baked, 
are  the  common  utensils  for  cooking  their  food  ;  and  a 
few  upright  sticks  or  reeds,  driven  into  the  mud  floor, 
with  a  hide  stretched  over  them,  constitute  their  most 
luxurious  bed.  Indolent  and  filthy,  they  work  only  to 
meet  their  own  immediate  wants ;  and,  so  degraded  is 
their  condition,  that  gaming  and  cock-fighting  are  their 
principal  pastimes.  The  inebriating  bowl,  also,  is 
eagerly  sought  by  them,  and  a  large  portion  of  their 
earnings  is  spent  in  this  riotous  way,  even  under  the 
guidance  of  their  priests,  at  the  celebration  of  a  mar- 
riage, or  on  the  occasion  of  a  christening. 

The  Indians  of  Central  America,  bear  as  little  resem- 
blance to  those  of  our  country  generally,  as  the  Span- 
iards among  whom  they  dwell  do,  to  us.  They  do  not, 
in  any  place,  live  by  themselves,  as  independent  tribes. 
They  have  no  peculiar  habits  of  life,  or  of  warfare — no 
hunting — no  sports  peculiar  to  themselves — and  none  of 
the  customs  of  their  ancestors  preserved,  to  distinguish 
them  from  the  mass  of  people  about  them.  It  is  only 
their  complexion,  their  poverty,  and  generally  degraded 
condition,  that  marks  the  difference  between  them  and 
their  neighbors.  They  occupy  nearly  the  same  posi- 
tion there,  as  the  free  blacks  do  in  the  United  States, 
with  this  difference  in  favor  of  the  latter — that  there  is 


THEIR  DRESS  AND  GENERAL  APPEARANCE.   117 

nothing  in  the  spirit  of  our  institutions,  civil,  or  relig- 
ious, that  prevents  them  from  attaining  a  respectable 
education,  and  a  comfortable  independence. 


AN  INDIAN  MAN  AND  WOldAN. 


Ordinarily,  the  men  wear  trousers, — sometimes  shirts 
of  cotton, — but,  in  many  parts  of  the  country,  owing  to 
the  prohibition  of  certain  qualities  and  textures,  this 
luxury  is  fast  disappearing,  and  the  more  primitive  dress 
of  skins  is  taking  its  place.  The  rebosa,  a  narrow 
scarf,  thrown  over  the  head  and  shoulders,  is  indispen- 
sable to  females.  No  matter  what  constitutes  the  other 
portion  of  their  covering,  even  though,  as  is  oftentimes 
the  case,  their  wardrobe  is  so  scanty  as  scarcely  to 
cover  their  limbs,  yet  this  is  considered  paramount.  On 
one  occasion,  I  remember  to  have  seen  a  female,  with  a 


118  ARRIVAL  AT  TOPILA  CREEK. 

rebosa  upon  her  head,  which  cost  no  less  than  twenty- 
five  dollars,  whilst  her  body  was  miserably  covered 
with  a  sort  of  under  garment,  or  petticoat,  such  as  few 
of  our  common  street  beggars  would  be  willing  to  wear. 

These  people  are  of  the  usual  color  and  stature  of 
the  Mexican  Indians,  but  not  so  finely  formed  as  the 
majority  of  them  are, — nor  have  they  that  good  expres- 
sion, so  prominent  among  the  people  of  the  southern 
portions  of  Mexico.  They  seem,  moreover,  to  be 
entirely  destitute  of  that  spirit  of  religion,  which  their 
manifest  appreciation  of  some  religious  rites,  would 
naturally  lead  us  to  expect.  Altogether,  they  are  the 
most  unfavorable  specimen  of  the  natives  that  have 
fallen  under  my  observation. 

Before  night-fall  of  the  second  day  of  our  voyage, 
we  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Topila  Creek,  a  distance 
of  twenty  miles  from  the  brick-yard.  Continuing  our 
course  up  that  stream  about  three  miles,  we  came  to  a 
rancho,  or  cattle-farm,  belong  to  a  Mr.  Coss,  of  Tampico, 
brother  of  the  celebrated  general  of  Texan  memory. 
Before  I  left  Tampico,  this  gentleman  gave  me  a  letter 
to  his  major-domo,  a  half-breed,  who  received  us  with 
great  attention.  The  letter  being  very  explicit  on  the 
subject  of  accommodation,  I  could  not  but  fare  well  in 
this  respect,— and  it  may  yet,  perhaps,  be  gathered  from 
the  sequel,  that  I  was  treated  more  like  a  prince  than  a 
common  traveller. 

Arriving  at  the  place,  we  were  ushered  into  a  bam- 
boo house,  with  mud  walls,  and  floors  of  the  same 
primitive  material.  This  house  contained  no  less  than 
two  apartments.  One  of  these,  sustained  the  distin- 
guished appellation  of  "  the  lady's  roo?n" — and  it  was 


THE  "LADY'S  ROOM."  119 

now  my  privilege  to  become  its  sole  occupant.  In  one 
corner  of  the  room,  stood  a  bedstead,  without  bed  or 
bedding  ;  and  a  dressing-table,  decorated  with  sundry 
condemned  combs,  oil-bottles,  scissors  and  patches,  oc- 
cupied another  ;  whilst  a  demijohn  of  aguardiente,  and 
other  interesting  ornaments,  such  as  saddles,  guns,  and 
swords,  filled  up  the  picture.  However,  as  I  intended 
to  make  this  place  my  head-quarters,  while  exploring 
the  hills  and  river  banks  in  the  neighborhood,  I  at  once 
resolved  to  be  satisfied  with  "the  lady's  room,"  and 
such  other  good  things  as  the  place  afforded.  Accord- 
ingly, at  an  early  hour,  I  spread  out  my  blanket,  and 
retired  for  the  night ; — "  deep  into  the  darkness  peer- 
ing— long  I  lay  there,  fondly  dreaming,"  as  before 
observed,  that  I  was  "  alone  in  my  glory." 

But,  alas  !  the  soft  reflections  of  dreamy  hours  were 
disturbed  by  an  unexpected  visit  from  a  goodly  number 
of  well-disciplined,  noxious  little  animals,  who  intro- 
duced themselves  to  me  in  a  most  significant,  yet 
unceremonious  manner.  No  remarks  being  made 
respecting  the  object  of  their  visit,  I  was  left  to  infer,  that 
the  kindness  of  the  major-domo  had  moved  him  to  organ- 
ize a  new  company  of  lancers,  for  my  especial  benefit. 
After  many  unsuccessful  attempts  to  induce  this  unso- 
licited force  to  withdraw,  my  attention  was  politely 
called  to  another  quarter.  Having  been  strongly 
impressed,  I  was  now  fully  convinced,  of  the  immediate 
presence  of  sundry  young  pigeons,  many  of  whom, 
protected  by  their  maternal  parents,  were  perched  in 
the  crevices  of  the  wall  over  my  head.  These, 
together  with  the  game  fowls,  setting  under  my  bed, 
contributed  much  to  destroy  that  confidence  which, 


120  AN  AGED  INDIAN. 

until  now  had  not  been  disturbed,  that  I  had  actually 
secured  the  undivided  occupancy  of  that  unique  apart- 
ment. Of  course,  it  was  unnecessary  to  arouse  me  in 
the  morning. 

Before  sunrise,  I  found  myself  well  equipped  for  the 
explorations  of  the  day.  The  mules  being  in  readiness, 
I  started  in  company  with  a  guide,  and  rode  five  miles 
to  another  rancho,  where,  as  I  was  informed,  there  lived 
an  Indian  upwards  of  a  hundred  years  of  age.  I 
found  him,  to  my  surprise,  a  hale  and  sturdy  man — 
though  he  could  give  me  no  intelligence  respecting  the 
objects  of  my  research.  Indeed,  so  suspicious  are  these 
people  of  the  designs  of  strangers,  that  it  was  with  the 
utmost  difficulty  I  could  convince  him,  as  well  as 
others,  that  my  only  motive  in  visiting  the  country, 
was  to  acquaint  myself  with  the  ancient  places  of  their 
forefathers ;  not,  as  they  supposed,  to  roam  in  quest  of 
gold  and  silver  mines. 

Supposing  that,  in  a  man  so  much  beyond  the  ordi- 
nary limit  of  human  life,  whose  memory  might  extend 
back  almost  one-third  of  the  way  to  the  era  of  the 
Spanish  conquest,  and  who  was  now  in  the  full  posses- 
sion of  his  faculties,  I  had  found  a  rare  and  enviable 
opportunity  to  pry  into  the  mysteries  of  the  past,  and 
learn  something  of  the  history  of  the  remarkable  peo- 
ple, who  once  occupied  this  whole  region,  and  filled 
it  with  monuments  of  their  genius,  taste,  and  power ; — 
I  employed  all  my  ingenuity  to  draw  out  of  him  what- 
ever he  knew.  But  it  was  pumping  at  an  exhausted 
well.  Of  facts,  of  history,  in  any  form,  he  had  nothing 
to  tell.  He  seemed  not  to  have  a  thought  that  there  Was 
anything  to  be  told,  except  one  vague  unsatisfactory 


ANCIENT  RUINS.  121 

tradition,  the  only  one  existing  among  the  inhabitants 
in  all  this  region,  that  once  on  a  time — they  have  no 
conception  when,  whether  a  hundred  or  a  thousand 
years  ago — "  giants  came  from  the  North,  as  was  pro- 
phesied by  the  gods,  killed  and  destroyed  the  people, 
and  continued  on  to  the  South."  This  tradition,  bear- 
ing a  strong  analogy  to  one  which  prevails  among 
nearly  all  the  aboriginal  tribes  of  the  Mississippi  Valley, 
and  the  wilds  of  the  west,  seems  to  be  the  only  con- 
necting link  between  the  present  generation,  and  that 
mysteriously  interesting  blank — the  exterminated  obli- 
terated Past. 

In  the  vicinity  of  this  rancho,  in  an  easterly  direc- 
tion from  it,  I  found,  in  several  considerable  mounds, 
the  first  traces  of  ancient  art  that  had  greeted  my  eyes. 
One  of  these  mounds  was  more  than  twenty- five  feet 
in  height,  and  of  a  circular  form.  At  its  sides,  a  num- 
ber of  layers  of  small,  flat,  well-hewn  stones  were  still 
to  be  seen.  Scattered  about,  in  its  immediate  neigh- 
borhood, were  also  many  others  of  a  larger  size,  and 
of  different  forms.  These  had  apparently  once  been 
used  for  the  sides  of  door-ways  and  lintels.  They  were 
perfectly  plain,  without  any  mark  or  sign  of  ornament. 

Upon  this  spot  once  stood  one  of  those  ancient 
Indian  towns,  the  memorials  of  whose  departed  great- 
ness and  glory  are  so  often  met  with,  in  every  part  of 
this  interesting  country.  The  ruins  in  this  place  are 
ruins  indeed,  so  dilapidated  as  not  to  afford,  at  the 
present  time,  the  remotest  clue  to  the  manners  and 
customs  of  the  builders,  or  the  degree  of  civilization  to 
which  they  may  have  attained.  I  traversed  the  whole 
ground,  as  well  as  the  rank  vegetation,  and  wild  ani- 

11 


122  RANCHOS  DE  LAS  PIEDRAS. 

mals  would  permit,  and  found  my  way  back  to  the 
Topila  at  dark, — congratulating  myself  on  having  been 
able  to  accomplish  so  much,  in  the  way  of  exploration, 
with  no  other  protection  than  the  untanned  skin  of  an 
American,  while  that  of  a  rhinoceros  seemed  absolutely 
necessary  to  the  undertaking  ;  for  both  the  animal  and 
vegetable  kingdoms  appeared  to  be  combined  against 
the  intrusion  of  man. 

On  the  morning  of  the  next  day,  I  set  out  with  a 
party  of  Indians,  on  a  visit  to  the  Rancho  de  las 
Piedras,  distant  about  two  leagues  and  a  half,  in  a  south- 
east direction.  We  made  our  way,  slowly,  and  wear- 
ily, as  usual,  threading  the  thick  wilds  with  much  toil 
and  fatigue,  until  we  reached  a  rise  of  land,  or  plateau, 
near  a  chain  of  hills  running  through  this  section  of 
country,  and  known  as  the  Topila  Hills.  Here  I  found 
stones  that  were  once  evidently  used  for  buildings. 
Proceeding  on  our  way,  we  came  to  other  and  clearer 
evidences  of  ancient  art.  These  were  mounds,  the 
sides  of  which  had  been  constructed  of  loose  layers  of 
smooth  and  uniform  blocks  of  concrete  sandstone ; — « 
but  most  of  the  layers  had  fallen  from  their  original 
position,  and  were  found  in  large  masses  near  the 
elevation.  The  blocks  of  stone,  with  a  surface  eigh- 
teen inches  square,  measured  about  six  inches  in  thick- 
ness, and  appeared  to  have  been  laid  without  mortar,  or 
other  adhesive  material.  I  observed  about  twenty  of 
these  mounds,  contiguous  to  each  other,  and  varying  in 
height  from  six  to  twenty-five  feet,— some  being  of  a 
circular,  and  others  of  a  square  form ;  but,  unlike  most 
of  those  found  in  other  parts  of  the  country,  they  were 
not  laid  out  with  any  degree  of  regularity.     On  the  top 


AN  ANCIENT  WELL.  123 

of  one  of  the  largest,  there  had  evidently  been  a  terrace, 
though  it  was  difficult,  in  its  present  dilapidated  state, 
to  define  its  outlines,  or  judge  of  its  extent. 

The  principal  elevation  covers  an  area  of  about  two 
acres.  At  the  base  of  this  mound,  was  a  slab  of  stone 
about  seven  inches  in  thickness,  well  hewn,  and  of  a 
circular  form,  having  a  hole  through  the  centre,  and 
resting  upon  a  circular  wall,  or  foundation,  the  top  of 
which  was  level  with  the  ground.  This  stone  mea- 
sured four  feet  nine  inches  in  diameter.  On  removing 
it,  I  discovered  a  well,  filled  up  with  broken  stone  and 
fragments  of  pottery.  Stone  coverings  in  wells  have 
been  found  in  the  ancient  works  on  the  main  branches 
of  Paint  Creek,  Ohio,  bearing  a  strong  resemblance  to 
the  one  here  noticed ;  and  it  is  also  worthy  of  remark, 
that  wells  covered  in  this  way,  strongly  resemble  the 
descriptions  we  have  of  those  used  in  the  patriarchal 
ages.  How  much  of  an  argument  might  be  made,  from 
such  an  isolated  circumstance  as  this,  to  confirm  the 
opinion  entertained  by  some  able  writers,  that  the  abo- 
riginal inhabitants  of  America  were  the  descendants  of 
Abraham,  the  lost  ten  tribes,  who  revolted  under  Reho- 
boam,  the  son  of  Solomon,  and  were  carried  away  into 
Assyria,  I  shall  not  undertake  to  decide.  Many  a  fair 
theoiy,  however,  has  been  erected  upon  a  foundation  no 
broader  than  this,  nor  more  substantial ;  and  many  a 
volume  has  been  written  to  sustain  the  shadowy  fabric. 

I  should  have  stated  above,  that  the  upper  side  of  the 
stone  removed,  bore  evidence  of  having  been  originally 
wrought  with  ornamental  lines ;  but  these  lines  were  so 
much  obliterated  by  time  and  exposure  to  the  weather, 
that  they  could  not  now  be  traced. 


124  A  WILD  FIG-TREE MOUNDS. 

On  the  top  of  this  mound,  a  wild  fig-tree,  more  than 
a  hundred  feet  high,  grows  luxuriantly,  indicating  by 
its  size  and  age,  that  the  mound  on  which  it  stands,  is 
not  the  work  of  modern  builders. 

The  walls  of  the  smaller  mounds  had  invariably  fal- 
len inwards,  a  circumstance  which  led  to  the  conjecture 
that  they  had  been  used  as  burying  places.  For,  as 
the  bones  within  would,  in  process  of  time,  decay  and 
moulder  into  dust,  the  loose  walls,  having  no  cement  to 
hold  them  together,  would  gradually  settle  in  upon  the 
ashes  of  the  dead.  The  ground  for  several  miles 
around,  was  strewn  with  loose  hewn  stones,  of  various 
shapes,  and  broken  pieces  of  pottery,  evidently  parts  of 
household  utensils  ;  also,  fragments  of  obsidean,  which 
no  doubt  had  been  used  as  the  knives  and  spears  of  a 
people,  respecting  whom,  little  is  known  at  this  day, 
except  that  they  were  a  warlike  race,  and  far  advanced 
in  the  arts  of  civilization.  The  nearest  point  now 
known,  where  this  mineral  can  be  obtained,  is  Pelados, 
near  the  Real  del  Monte,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  city  of 
Mexico.  The  celebrated  "  Mountain  of  Flints,"  which, 
though  but  twenty-four  miles  in  extent,  cost  the  inde- 
fatigable Cortes,  and  his  brave  band,  twelve  days  of  the 
most  painful  toil  to  surmount,  lies  still  farther  off,  in  the 
south  western  part  of  Yucatan. 

An  incident  of  a  somewhat  startling  character,  which 
occured  to  me  here,  while  it  illustrates  another  feature 
in  the  state  of  society  in  these  parts,  and  the  character 
of  the  people  whom  the  traveller  sometimes  has  to  deal 
with,  will  serve  to  bring  the  present  chapter  to  close ; 
leaving  the  interesting  curiosities  discovered  among  the 


ALMOST  MURDERED.  125 

ruins,  and  a  yet  more  thilling  adventure  which  befel 
me,  to  form  the  material  for  a  separate  chapter. 

It  was  evening.  The  day  had  been  spent  in  ram- 
bling and  climbing  about  the  time  hallowed  ruins  of 
those  old  deserted  cities,  and  searching  among  the 
mouldering  relics  of  antiquity,  for  something  to  identify 
the  dead  with  the  living,  or  to  serve  as  a  satisfactory 
link  between  the  past  and  the  present.  My  Indian 
comrades  and  myself  were  cosily  discussing  our  forest 
fare,  each  indulging  in  his  own  private  reflections,  and 
totally  unsuspicious  of  any  interruption  to  our  humble 
meal,  when  we  were  suddenly  surrounded  by  a  band  of 
those  grim-looking,  dark-bearded,  heavily-whiskered 
gentlemanly-looking  like  highwaymen,  that  infest  almost 
every  part  of  the  country.  They  immediately  dis- 
mounted, and  made  us  prisoners,  seizing  us  by  the 
hand  as  if  they  would  bind  us,  to  prevent  our  escape. 
We  made  no  resistance,  for  we  were  unprepared  for 
defence,  and  entirely  at  their  mercy.  Here,  now,  was 
trouble  enough.  What  a  poor  finale  to  my  brief  and 
unprofitable  adventures,  to  be  murdered  in  cold  blood 
by  these  merciless  banditti,  or  made  a  hopeless  captive 
in  some  of  their  mountain  fastnesses !  My  position, 
feelings,  and  reflections,  can  be  better  imagined  than 
described. 

Having  surveyed  us  from  crown  to  toe,  with  the 
utmost  scrutiny,  and  compared  notes  respecting  our 
appearance,  and  the  prospect  of  obtaining  any  satisfac- 
tion in  our  blood,  they  drew  forth  from  their  bags — the 
huge  and  fearful  looking  horse-pistol  ? — No.  The  long, 
glittering,  keen-edged,  high-tempered  dirk,  drunk  with 
the  blood  of  numberless  victims  of  their  rapacious  era- 


126  THE  ISSUE. 

elty? — No.  The  slender  stiletto,  so  delicately  formed, 
and  so  exquisitely  polished,  as  to  insinuate  itself  into  the 
vitals,  ere  the  parted  epidermis  had  realized  the  rent  it 
had  made  in  passing  ? — No.  The  savage  cutlass  ? — the 
heavy,  fierce-looking,  trenchant  broad-sword  ? — No.  Not 
these — nor  any  of  them, — but,  unexpected,  and  unheard 
of,  even  among  civilized  highwaymen — they  drew  out 
an  ample  store  of  substantial  food,  and  invited  us  to 
partake  of  their  supper.  We  did  not  shrink  from  their 
professed  hospitality.  We  made  ourselves  of  their  party 
for  the  moment,  and  spent  an  hour,  or  more,  in  their 
company,  with  great  glee,  and  with  mutual  satisfaction 
— after  which,  they  mounted  and  rode  off,  and  we  took 
to  our  hammocks  and  our  dreams. 

By  what  token  we  escaped,  I  was  not  able  to  conjec- 
ture. Whether,  as  my  vanity  might  have  suggested, 
it  was  to  be  attributed  to  my  good  looks,  or  to  my 
Spanish  sombrero,  flannel  shirt,  and  bandolero  air,  or 
to  the  influence  of  some  propitious  star,  just  then  in  the 
ascendant,  is  a  mystery  yet  to  be  explained.  If  I  may 
have  the  same  good  fortune  in  escaping  the  censure  of 
the  reader,  upon  whose  patience  these  trifling  sketches 
have  been  inflicted,  it  will  afford  me  a  gratification  that 
will  far  more  than  overbalance  all  the  pains  and  incon- 
veniences that  I  have  suffered,  from  being  brought  into 
conflict  with  insects,  wild  beasts,  and  robbers. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

FURTHER   EXPLORATION    OF    THE    RUINS    IN    THE    VICINITY    OF 
THE  RANCHO  DE  LAS     PIEURAS. 

Situation  of  the  Ruins. — Their  probable  antiquity. — A  remark- 
able female  head. — Description  of  it. — Where  found. — 
Brought  to  New  York. — Another  head. — Difficulty  of  getting 
at  it. — Its  collossal  proportions. — A  particular  description. — 
Indians  disposed  to  leave  me,  but  induced  to  remain. — The 
American  Sphinx. — Description. — Conjectures  of  its  origin 
and  design. — Curiously  ornamented  head. — -Its  peculiar  fea- 
tures.— Exploring  the  ruins  a  difficult  work. — Annoyances. — 
Deserted  by  the  Indians. — A  delicate  situation. — A  fortunate 
escape. 

These  ruins  are  situated,  as  near  as  I  could  calculate 
with  the  primitive  instruments  constructed  for  the  occa- 
sion, in  longitude  9S°  31'  west,  and  latitude  22°  9'  north, 
covering  a  space  of  several  miles  square,  and  have 
every  appearance  of  being  the  remains  of  a  single  town. 
The  whole  place  is  completely  covered  with  trees  of 
the  largest  growth,  so  thickly  interspersed  with  the 
rankest  vegetation,  that  even  the  sun,  or  daylight  itself, 
can  scarcely  find  its  way  among  them.  So  very  dense 
and  dark  is  the  forest,  and  so  constant  and  extensive 
the  decomposition  of  vegetable  matter  going  on  beneath 


128 


A  FEMALE  HEAD. 


it,  that  it  impregnates  the  whole  region  with  a  humid 
and  unwholesome  atmosphere.  It  is  true,  that  these 
circumstances  have,  in  a  great  degree,  hastened  the 
dilapidation  of  the  works  of  human  skill  around ;  but, 
nevertheless,  they  furnish  indisputable  evidence  of  the 
great  antiquity  of  those  works. 


FEMALE   HEAP. 


Among  these  ruins,  I  found  a  remarkable  head, 
which,  with  various  other  relics  of  antiquity  from  the 
same  interesting  region,  I  had  the  honor  of  depositing 
in  the  collection  of  the  New  York  Historical  Society. 
This  head,  or  rather  face,  a  drawing  of  which  I  have 
the  pleasure  of  here  presenting  to  the  reader,  resembles 


DESCRIPTION TRANSPORTED  TO  NEW  YORK.      129 

that  of  a  female.  It  is  beautifully  cut  from  a  fine  sand- 
stone, of  a  dark  reddish  hue,  which  abounds  in  this 
vicinity.  The  face,  which  is  of  the  ordinary  life  size, 
stands  out,  in  full  relief,  from  the  rough  block,  as  if  it 
were  in  an  unfinished  state,  or  as  if  designed  to  occupy 
a  place  among  the  ornamental  work  of  a  building.  In 
several  of  its  features,  the  lines  are  decidedly  Grecian, 
and  the  symmetry  and  beauty  of  its  proportions  have 
been  very  much  admired.  How  and  where  the  artist 
may  have  obtained  his  model,  and  how  far  the  exist- 
ence of  it  may  be  deemed  to  confirm  the  statements  of 
Plato  and  Aristotle,  and  favor  the  conjecture  of  an  early 
settlement  on  this  continent  by  the  Phoenician  naviga- 
tors, I  shall  not  now  stay  to  inquire. 

This  striking  figure  I  found,  lying  among  vast  piles 
of  broken  and  crumbling  stones,  the  ruins  of  dilapidated 
buildings,  which  were  strewed  over  a  vast  space.  It 
was  in  a  remarkably  good  state  of  preservation,  except 
the  nose,  which  was  slightly  mutilated ;  not  sufficiently 
so,  however,  to  lose  its  uniformity,  or  destroy  the  beau- 
tiful symmetry  of  its  proportions.  The  fillet,  or  band 
of  the  head-dress,  which  conceals  the  frontal  develop- 
ments, is  unlike  any  thing  found  among  the  sculptured 
remains  in  this  country,  or  worn  by  any  of  the  native 
tribes. 

On  discovering  this  remarkable  piece  of  sculpture — 
remarkable  considering  the  place  where  it  was  found — I 
immediately  commenced  making  a  drawing  of  it.  But, 
before  completing  the  sketch,  I  was  so  struck  with  its 
singular  beauty  and  perfection,  that  I  determined  to  lay 
violent  hands  on  it,  and  bring  it  away  with  me ;  fear- 
ing that  a  mere   drawing  would  not  be  sufficient  evi- 


130 


A  COLOSSAL  HEAD. 


dence,  to  the  incredulous  world,  of  the  existence  of 
such  a  piece  of  work  among  the  ruins  of  places,  which 
had  been  built  and  peopled,  according  to  the  commonly 
received  opinion,  by  a  race  of  semi-barbarians.  It  was 
a  work  of  no  little  labor  and  difficulty  to  secure  it.  But 
I  finally  succeeded  in  giving  it  a  comfortable  and  a  safe 
lodgment  on  the  back  of  my  mule,  and  so  brought  it 
to  the  bank  of  the  river,  where  I  embarked  it  in  a 
canoe.  It  had  several  narrow  escapes  by  the  way, 
but  was,  at  length,  safely  landed  in  New  York. 


COLOSSAL   HEAD, 


I  also  discovered  among  the  rubbish,  in  this  place, 
and  not  far  from  the  spot  where  the  above  described 


DESCRIPTION  OF  IT.  131 

Grecian  head  was  found,  another  large  stone,  with  a 
head  well  sculptured  upon  its  surface,  in  bold  relief,  as 
represented  in  the  accompanying  engraving.  It  was 
buried  up  in  a  mass  of  superincumbent  ruins,  and  was 
only  brought  to  light  in  the  course  of  my  laborious 
excavations.  On  removing  the  loose  stones  and  dust 
which  covered  it — the  labor  of  nearly  a  whole  day — it 
stood  as  represented  in  the  sketch.  The  face  was  not 
so  finely  chiselled,  nor  had  it  the  same  regular  classic 
beauty  of  feature  and  proportion,  as  the  one  first  seen 
and  described ;  but  still  there  is  much  in  its  general 
appearance  to  attract  attention.  It  is  different  from  any 
thing  heretofore  discovered  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic. 
The  features,  like  those  of  the  head  which  I  brought 
away  with  me.  are  decidedly  those  of  the  Caucasian 
race,  bearing  no  resemblance  to  those  of  any  of  the 
tribes  on  this  continent.  The  ears  are  rather  large, 
and  the  hair  is  represented  rather  by  a  series  of  regular 
flirtings,  than  by  any  attempt  at  the  wavy  lines,  which 
are  ordinarily  deemed  essential  to  grace  in  this  capital 
ornament.  A  band,  or  collar,  passes  round  from  the 
back  of  the  neck,  close  to,  and  supporting  the  face,  and 
meeting  in  a  point,  a  few  inches  below  the  chin. 

The  stone  on  which  this  figure  was  cut  was  circular, 
twelve  feet  in  diameter,  and  three  in  thickness.  The 
head,  covering  more  than  half  its  area,  was  of  course 
of  colossal  proportions.  The  periphery  of  this  mighty 
wheel  was  geometrically  accurate  and  regular,  and 
smoothly  chiselled  oft',  and  would  have  served  well,  in 
ancient  times,  to  fulfil  the  tartarean  destiny  of  Sisyphus, 
or,  in  these  modern  times,  for  a  Yankee  mill-stone.  It 
was  a  laborious  task  to  clear  away  the  stones  and  dirt 


132  ALMOST  DESERTED — SOMETHING  NEW. 

that  had  been  accumulating  about  it,  perhaps  for  ages. 
But  the  sight  of  it,  when  placed  in  an  upright  position, 
amply  repaid  me  for  all  the  toil  and  fatigue,  which  it 
cost  me  to  effect  it. 

It  was  only  with  the  greatest  difficulty  that  I  could 
keep  my  Indian  allies  at  work.  The  influence  of 
presents  and  coaxing  was  exhausted,  long  before  I  had 
attained  my  purpose  with  regard  to  this  colossal  figure- 
head. I  then  turned  preacher,  and  addressed  myself  to 
their  superstitious  notions  with  some  effect ;  calling  up 
my  little  stock  of  proverbial  wisdom,  to  stimulate  them 
to  new  exertions,  and  giving  them  to  understand  that  I 
expected  to  find  something  better  than  loose  and  broken 
stones,  in  turning  up  the  soil,  and  rummaging  among 
the  ruined  sepulchres  of  the  departed.  They  did  not 
comprehend  the  drift  of  my  oracular  discourse ;  but, 
like  many  other  sermons,  too  profound  for  the  com- 
prehension of  the  hearers,  it  increased  their  reverence 
for  the  preacher,  and  made  them  more  submissive  to 
my  orders. 

The  next  object  which  arrested  my  attention,  was 
one,  the  sight  of  which  carried  back  my  imagination  to 
ages  of  classic  interest,  and  to  the  marvels  of  human  art 
and  power,  on  the  banks  of  the  river  of  Egypt.  It  was 
not  perhaps  a  Sphinx,  in  the  language  of  the  critical 
and  fastidious  antiquarian  ;  but  sure  I  am,  that  no  one, 
however  scrupulous  for  the  honor  of  oriental  antiqui- 
ties, could  see  it,  without  being  strongly  reminded  of 
the  fabulous  monster  of  Thebes,  and  secretly  wishing 
that  he  was  so  far  an  (Edipus,  as  to  be  able  to  solve 
the  inexplicable  riddle  of  its  origin  and  design.  It  was 
the  figure,  as  represented  in  the  accompanying  engrav- 


THE  AMERICAN  SPHINX.  133 

ing,  of  a  mammoth  turtle,  with  the  head  of  a  man 
boldly  protruded  from  under  its  gigantic  shell.  The 
figure  of  the  amphibious  monster  measured  over  six 
feet  in  length,  with  a  proportional  width,  and  rested 
upon  a  huge  block  of  concrete  sand-stone.  The  back 
was  correctly  and  artistically  wrought,  displaying  the 
exact  form,  and  all  the  scale  lines  of  the  turtle  in  good 
proportion.  There  were  also,  in  many  parts  distinctly 
visible,  fainter  lines,  to  show  that  the  peculiar  arabesque 
of  that  ornamental  shield  had  not  been  overlooked  by 
the  artist. 

All  the  other  parts  were  equally  true  to  nature.  It 
was  much  broken  and  mutilated,  especially  the  human 
protuberance ;  but  not  sufficiently  so  to  destroy  the 
evidences  of  the  skill  with  which  it  had  been  designed, 
and  of  the  masterly  workmanship  with  which  it  had 
been  wrought.  This  head  must,  originally,  have  been 
an  unusually  fine  specimen  of  ancient  American  art. 
Like  all  the  others  found  in  this  region,  it  has  the 
Caucasian  outline  and  contour,  and  in  its  finish  and 
expression,  is  strongly  marked  with  the  unmistakable 
impress  of  genius.  It  is  rare,  among  these  works,  to 
meet  with  an  entire  head,  like  this.  They  are  gener- 
ally half  buried  in  the  rock  from  which  they  were 
hewn,  as  if  designed  to  be  placed  in  some  conspicuous 
position  in  the  facade,  or  interior  wall  of  a  building. 
This  work  gives  the  head  complete,  and  the  posterior 
developments  of  the  cranium,  as  the  phrenologist  would 
say,  are  those  of  an  intellectual  and  moral  cast — that  is 
to  say,  they  are  quite  subordinate  to  the  frontal  devel- 
opments. The  forehead  was  originally  high  and  broad, 
though  the  mutilated  appearance  of  the  upper  part,  as 

12 


134  CONJECTURES. 

given  in  the  plate,  would  leave  a  different  impression. 
The  nose,  as  far  as  it  remains  is  beautifully  shaped  and 
finely  chiselled,  as  are  also  the  lips,  the  chin,  and  the 
ears. 

It  is  only  for  me  to  describe  things  as  I  saw  them, 
leaving  it  to  others,  more  profound  than  myself  in  anti- 
quarian researches,  to  frame  appropriate  theories  for 
their  explanation.  But  I  could  not  avoid  the  tempta- 
tion to  pause  a  little  over  this  singular  curiosity,  with  a 
lurking  disposition  to  catechise  conjecture,  respecting  its 
probable  signification  and  end.  But  it  was  all  in  vain 
— a  mere  reverie  of  guess-work,  without  beginning  or 
clue.  Whether  it  was  the  offspring  of  a  simple  freak 
of  the  imagination  of  the  artist ; — whether  it  was  one 
of  the  symbols  of  the  Avorship  of  that  unknown  race, 
for  whom  the  artist  exercised  his  unholy  craft  of  mak- 
ing "  gods  which  are  yet  no  gods  ;  " — whether  it  was  a 
quaint  hieroglyphical  memorial  of  some  remarkable 
epoch  in  their  history-— some  luckless  Jonah  half  swal- 
lowed by  a  turtle,  and  for  ever  struggling  to  escape ; — 
whether  it  was  the  emblematic  device  of  a  club  of 
artistic  gourmands,  the  sign  to  be  placed  over  the  door 
of  their  banqueting  hall,  designed  to  acknowledge  and 
illustrate  the  intimate  union  and  sympathy,  the  identity 
of  nature,  between  man  and  beast,  in  those  who  "  make 
a  god  of  their  belly ; " — these  are  alternatives  of  conjec- 
ture, upon  which  we  may  speculate  as  we  will,  but 
from  which  it  is  neither  safe  nor  easy  to  make  a  definite 
choice. 

The  probable  history  and  design  of  "  the  American 
Sphinx  " — for  such  I  have  taken  the  liberty  to  name  it 
— will,  I  trust,  be  made  a  matter  of  more  sober  and  sue- 


LOST  IN  "WONDER.  135 

cessful  enquiry  by  some  future  traveller,  more  skilled 
than  I  can  profess  to  be  in  antiquarian  researches.  It 
is  an  ample  field,  strewn  on  every  side  with  subjects  of 
the  deepest  interest.  And  he  who  shall  first,  by  means 
of  these  only  records  that  remain,  scattered,  disconnected, 
and  crumbling  into  hopeless  decay,  decypher  some 
legible  tale  of  probability,  and  unravel  a  leading  clue  to 
the  history  of  these  now  inexplicable  relics,  will  win 
and  deserve  the  admiring  gratitude  of  all,  who  are  curi- 
ous to  investigate  the  ever  changing  aspects  of  human 
society. 

I  had  scarcely  met  with  any  thing,  in  all  my  rambles, 
more  full  of  exciting  interest,  than  the  field  I  was  now 
exploring ;  and  I  never  so  much  regretted  being  alone. 
For  a  well  read  antiquarian  to  talk  with — for  a  curioso 
in  hieroglyphical  lore  to  trace  out  the  mystic  lines,  and 
give  an  intelligent  signification  to  the  grotesque  images 
about  me — I  would  have  given  my  last  maravedi,  and 
the  better  half  of  my  humble  stock  of  provisions.  Frag- 
ments of  various  kinds,  and  of  every  size  and  form,  lay 
scattered  around  me,  on  eveiy  side,  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  this  "  American  Sphinx,"  affording  in  their 
shapes,  though  mutilated  and  imperfect,  and  in  the 
lines  of  sculpture  still  traceable  upon  many  of. them, 
satisfactory  prima  facie  evidence  of  having  once  com- 
posed the  ornamental  decorations  of  immense  and 
splendid  edifices,  which  now  lay  in  utter  ruins  at  mv 
feet. 

The  place  where  I  stood  had  evidently  been  the  site 
of  a  large  city,  thronged  with  busy  multitudes  of  human 
beings,  whose  minds  were  cultivated  and  refined,  whose 
hearts  throbbed  high  with  human  affections,  and  human 


136 


AN  ORNAMENTED  HEAD. 


hopes,  and  who  doubtless  dreamed,  as  we  do,  that  their 
works  would  make  their  names  immortal.  But  where 
are  they  1  A  thousand  echoes,  from  the  hills  and  walls 
around,  answer— where  ? 

Proceeding  with  my  excavations,  and  turning  over 
large  masses  of  earth,  and  stones  of  every  size  and 
shape,  I  was  at  length  rewarded  with  the  discovery  of 
another  -figure,    somewhat  resembling,   but   in  many 


AtsT  ORNAMENTED   HEAD. 


respects  unlike,  those  which  I  have  already  shown.  A 
sketch  of  it  is  given  in  the  above  engraving.  It  was 
merely  the  face,  standing  out  in  full  relief  from  the 
block,  which  was  entirely  cut  away  from  the  top  and 
bottom,  but  left,  in  two  nearly  circular  projections,  at  the 


A  MYTHOLOGICAL  SUGGESTION.         137 

sides.  The  head  ornaments  are  striking  and  peculiar. 
They  are  not,  as  might  be  supposed  from  their  appear- 
ance in  the  reduced  scale  of  the  engraving,  miniature 
heads.  If  they  were,  I  should  venture  to  -find  in  them 
another  item  of  Grecian  mythology,  and  boldly  assume 
that  the  head  was  that  of  Jupiter,  with  three  young 
Minervas  in  the  act  of  issuing  from  his  pregnant  brain. 
Nor  would  the  appearance  of  three,  instead  of  one,  in 
any  manner  stagger  my  faith,  since  it  is  well  known, 
that  America  exceeds  all  other  parts  of  the  world  in 
human  and  animal  fecundity,  as  well  as  in  the  fertility 
of  its  soil.  And  why  not  equally  so  in  its  mythological 
reproductions  ?  But,  alas  !  for  one  of  the  most  promis- 
ing theories  that  ever  was  conceived,  these  ornaments 
are  only  balls,  with  slight  indentations,  connected 
together  by  a  band  running  across  the  top  of  the  head, 
and  terminating  at  the  sides,  just  above  the  ears.  A 
phrenologist  might  possibly  discern  in  them,  the  over- 
grown diseased  developments  of  the  intellectual  organs 
residing  in  that  part  of  the  cranium. 

The  ears  of  this  figure  are  monstrous,  being  nearly 
half  the  size  of  the  face.  The  features,  and  the  whole 
contour  of  the  face,  like  the  other  two,  will  be  seen  to 
be  entirely  Caucasian,  having  no  element  of  the  Indian 
or  American,  in  any  of  its  lines.  It  is  seventeen  inches 
in  length,  twenty  one  in  breadth,  including  the  huge 
ears,  and  ten  in  thickness.  It  was  found  in  the  side  of 
a  large  pile  of  ruins,  the  remains  of  dilapidated  walls 
and  buildings,  of  which  it  had  evidently  formed  one  of 
the  ornamental  parts.  There  were  fragments  of  others 
of  the  same  general  character,  but  none  in  so  good  pre- 
servation as  this,  which  require  a  distinct  description. 


138  DESERTED  BY  MY  ALLIES. 

It  required  but  a  few  days  to  examine  this  part  of  the 
country, — and  I  was  really  glad  when  the  time  expired  ; 
— for,  besides  the  immense  labor  of  cutting  every  step 
of  our  way  through  a  dense  shrubbery,  which  covers 
most  of  the  country,  and  a  wilderness  of  trees  and 
thickets,  matted  and  woven  together  with  thousands  of 
creepers,  together  with  plants,  rendered  almost  impene- 
trable by  their  thorns,  which,  like  spears,  would  pierce 
at  every  movement, — we  had  also  to  contend  with 
myriads  of  insects  of  which  the  reading  world  has 
already  heard  so  much  from,  learned  travellers,  that  it 
might  be  deemed  a  work  of  supererogation  to  speak  of 
them  again,  and  which,  it  will  be  observed  are  herein 
named,  only  in  connection  with  other  obstacles  of  greater 
magnitude, — such  as  the  poisonous  tarantula,  which  is 
often  disturbed  from  its  stony  bed,  and  the  tiger  of  the 
country,  sometimes  started  from  the  thickets !  But, 
to  be  deserted  in  this  extremity,  is  a  thing  not  easily  to 
be  borne.  Yet  so  it  was.  My  recently  enlisted  Indian 
comrades,  being  entirely  out-done  and  astonished,  gave 
me  up  as  a  wild  or  crazy  man,  and  fled  to  their  homes  ! 
Thus  forsaken, — but  not  until  after  a  week  of  research, 
I  returned  in  safety  to  "  the  lady's  room,"  where  I  found 
my  Indian  allies  had  arrived  some  days  before  me. 

While  pursuing  my  solitary  researches,  after  my  aids 
had  absconded,  I  was  obliged  to  satisfy  myself  with 
such  objects  of  curiosity  as  lay  upon  the  surface,  with- 
out any  eifort  to  remove  obstructions,  or  excavate  among 
the  ruins.  There  was  little  to  be  gained  in  this  way. 
Moreover,  as  I  have  hinted  above,  there  was  much  dis- 
comfort, and  no  little  danger,  in  remaining  alone,-  as 
will  be  seen  by  the  following  incident. 


A  THRILLING  ADVENTURE.  139 

I  had  swung  my  hammock,  as  usual,  between  two 
trees,  and,  having  lighted  my  watch-fires  in  the  open 
space  around,  had  passed  a  comfortable  night,  with  no 
other  intrusion  than  dreams  of  home,  and  the  musical 
hum  of  musquitoes.  Very  early  in  the  morning,  I  was 
startled  by  a  rustling  in  the  thicket  near  by.  Lifting 
myself  up,  in  some  alarm,  I  was  by  no  means  gratified, 
or  quieted,  by  the  appearance  of  a  full  grown  tiger, 
creeping  stealthily  along  through  the  rank  growth  of 
grass  and  weeds,  which  skirted  the  thicket,  and  peering 
at  me,  as  if  he  had  not  yet  provided  himself  a  break- 
fast. Happily,  my  fires  were  still  burning,  and  the 
sight  of  them  brought  the  intruder  to  a  pause.  I  seized 
my  gun,  and  made  ready  to  give  him  the  best  reception 
in  my  power,  in  case  he  should  show  any  disposition  to 
cultivate  a  further  acquaintance.  In  this  situation,  cer- 
tainly not  very  agreeable  to  me,  whatever  it  might  have 
been  to  my  unwelcome  forest  visitor,  we  remained  more 
than  two  hours,  intently  eyeing  each  other,  as  if  pre- 
paring for  the  deadly  contest.  They  were  hours  of  as 
painful  and  absorbing  suspense,  as  any  that  I  ever  expe- 
rienced. I  had  little  doubt  that  one  or  the  other  of  us 
must  fall  a  sacrifice  to  this  ill  considered  and  unexpected 
meeting.  But  I  was  disappointed.  Whether  it  was 
want  of  appetite,  or  a  disrelish  for  the  smoke  of  my 
watch-fires,  or  an  instinctive  apprehension  of  other  fires, 
and  a  more  distasteful  smoke,  in  reserve  for  him,  I 
know  not,  and  did  not  care  to  ask  him.  But,  after  sev- 
eral times  changing  his  position  from  side  to  side,  as  if 
seeking  a  favorable  point  of  attack,  he  slunk  away,  as 
cautiously  as  he  came,  turning  wistfully  round  several 
times,  in  his  retreat,  as  if  half  resolved  not  to  leave  me. 


140 


THE  ESCAPE. 


or  somewhat  suspicious  that  his  escape  would  be  inter- 
rupted. I  had  many  misgivings  about  his  return  dur- 
ing the  day,  feeling  that  I  Would  rather  risk  such  a 
meeting  in  my  hammock,  guarded  by  the  watch-fires, 
than  in  my  solitary  and  unprotected  rambles  through 
the  forest. 


ff 


CHAPTER    IX. 

VISIT    TO    THE    ANCIENT    TOWN    OF    PANUCO.       RUINS.       CURIOUS 
RELICS   FOUND  THERE. 

The  route. — Scenery. — The  wild  Fig  Tree. — Panuco. — Its  his- 
tory.— Present  appearance  of  the  town. — Language. — Ruins 
in  the  vicinity. — Discovery  of  the  sepulchral  effigy. — Des- 
cription of  it. — Situation  in  which  it  was  found. — Resem- 
blance to  figures  on  the  tomb  of  the  Knights  Templar. — 
A  conjecture. — An  influence. — A  conclusion. — Extensive 
ruins  of  Cerro  Chacuaco,  and  other  places. — Vases  found 
there. — Probably  of  modern  date. 

During  my  sojourn  in  the  interior,  I  made  another 
exploring  excursion,  in  order  to  visit  the  ancient  town 
of  Panuco ;  where  I  was  received  with  the  greatest 
kindness  and  hospitality,  both  by  the  white  and  the 
half-breed  inhabitants  of  the  place.  My  route  lay 
along  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  across  the  prairies ; 
the  common  road  being  by  a  bridle  path,  through  the 
woods,  and  never  successfully  travelled,  but  with  the 
greatest  care  and  watchfulness.  The  ranchos  and 
milpas,  (small  farms)  assumed  a  better  appearance  than 
was  expected  ;  and  we  passed  several  fields  of  ripe  corn 
and  cane,  owned  principally,  by  Indians.     But  even 


142  THE  WILD  FIG  TREE. 

here,  every  thing,  whether  Indian  or  Mexican,  wears  a 
primitive  look. 

Proceeding  up  the  river,  which  retained  its  width  of 
half  a  mile,  we  found  the  scenery  on  either  side  con- 
tinually improving  as  we  went,  and  opening  new  views 
of  the  most  picturesque  and  romantic  beauty.  I  visited 
many  of  the  Indian  huts  that  lay  in  our  way,  the  occu- 
pants of  which  were  very  civil ;  but  it  was  quite  impos- 
sible here,  as  in  other  places,  to  convince  the  people, 
that  acquisition  of  gold  was  not  the  object  of  my  visit, 
— a  circumstance  which  may,  perhaps,  in  some  degree, 
account  for  the  fact,  that  I  could  obtain  from  them  so 
little  information  respecting  the  neighboring  country. 

The  wild  fig-tree,  which  bears  a  small  fruit,  resem- 
bling that  of  the  cultivated  tree  in  Louisiana,  grows 
here  to  a  vast  extent  and  beauty,  having,  from  its  wide- 
spreading  branches,  suckers,  which  hang  down  and 
touch  the  ground,  where  they  take  root  and  grow  in 
size  equal  to  the  original  trunk, — thus  giving  to  the 
tree,  the  appearance  of  a  frame  house  with  supporters 
and  rafters.  This  beautiful  tree  also  resembles  the 
Banyan  of  South  America,  and  belongs  to  that  class. 

There  are,  likewise,  in  this  vicinity,  many  other  trees 
of  curious  and  rare  growth,  some  of  which,  being  filled 
with  fruit  and  blossoms  at  the  same  time,  present  a 
most  unusual  and  pleasing  appearance.  Others,  adorned 
with  parasitical  plants,  intertwined  with  graceful  vines 
and  fragrant  with  flowers,  afford  a  paradise  for  birds  of 
the  most  brilliant  plumage,  and  give  indescribable  rich- 
ness and  beauty  to  the  scene. 

Panuco  is  an  old  town  of  the  Huestacos,  and  is  sub- 
ject to  occasional  inundations  during  the  rainy  season. 


THE  PLACE  AND  ITS  INHABITANTS.  143 

According  to  Bernal  Diaz,  this  is  the  place  conquered 
by  Cortes,  at  so  great  an  expense  of  life  and  treasure. 
At  the  period  of  the  conquest,  this  was  a  position  of 
much  consequence,  as  may  be  inferred  from  the  fact, 
that  the  conqueror  petitioned  Charles  the  Fifth  to  add 
its  government  to  that  of  New  Spain.  This  request 
being  granted,  a  garrison  was  accordingly  placed  there, 
and  commended  to  the  guardian  care  of  St.  Stephen, — 
a  name  which  holds  its  influence  there  to  the  present 
day.  It  was  the  powerful  and  heroic  race  of  the  Hues- 
tacos  that  once  dwelt  here ;  a  race  so  hated  by  the 
ruthless  invaders  of  Mexico,  that,  if  they  had  had  power 
to  accomplish  their  fiendish  desire,  not  a  vestige  of  that 
noble  people  would  have  been  found  remaining.  But, 
even  the  wasting  influences  of  time,  and  that  desolating 
bigotry  which  rioted  in  the  destruction  of  every  thing 
that  was  not  consecrated,  or,  more  properly  speaking, 
desecrated  to  the  idolatry  of  Rome,  has  not  been  found 
sufficient  to  destroy  the  marks  of  their  genius,  or  entirely 
to  obliterate  the  memory  of  their  deeds,  and  the  monu- 
ments of  their  greatness.  The  remains  of  pyramids, 
dwellings,  household  utensils,  ornaments  and  weapons, 
all  tend  to  convince  me  that  the  arts  once  flourished 
upon  the  spot,  where  now  dwells  a  listless,  idle  race  of 
Mexicans,  retrograding  as  the  year  rolls  on,  even  more 
rapidly  than  the  decay  of  the  ruins  around  them. 

Panuco  is  the  only  town  above  Tampico,  on  the 
Panuco  River,  and  contains  only  about  four  thousand 
inhabitants.  It  is  beautifully  located  on  the  banks  of 
the  river,  in  the  state  of  Yera  Cruz,  about  thirty  leagues 
from  Tampico,  by  water,  and  fifteen  by  land.  It  is  not 
laid  out  with  any  degree  of  regularity.     The  streets  of 


144  LANGUAGE. 

the  town  look  deserted,  and  wear  a  melancholy  aspect. 
The  houses  are  of  bamboo,  with  mud  walls,  which  have 
been  once  apparently  white-washed,  and  thatched  roofs. 
There  are  no  public  buildings,  little  or  no  business,  and 
only  a  few  shops,  established  chiefly  for  the  sale  of 
intoxicating  liquors. 

The  language  spoken  by  the  Indians,  in  this  region, 
might,  with  much  propriety,  be  termed  an  amalgama- 
tion of  many  different  dialects,  in  which  that  of  the 
Huestaco  predominates.  Father  Tapia  Zenteno,  made 
an  effort  to  render  it  into  form ; — but,  he  did  not  suc- 
ceed very  well, — the  confusion  of  tongues  being  more 
than  a  match  for  his  etymological  skill.  Indeed,  I 
imagine  there  are  few  in  this  region,  who  would  not 
faint  under  the  task.  It  might  well  be  taken  for  a  mod- 
ern representation  of  Babel,  or,  perhaps,  for  an  abortive 
attempt  to  harmonize  the  discordant  elements  of  that 
ancient  Pandemonium  of  Tongues. 

The  learned  Mr.  Gallatin,  the  venerable  president  of 
the  "  New  York  Historical  Society,"  and  of  the  "  Eth- 
nological Society  of  New  York,"  has  recently  published 
in  the  "Proceedings"  of  the  last  mentioned  body,  a 
dissertation,  in  which  he  shows  conclusively,  that  the 
languages  of  North  and  Central  America,  belong,  gram- 
matically, to  the  same  family,  however  much  they  may 
differ  in  words. 

We  have  reason  to  be  grateful,  that  the  researches  of 
the  Antiquarian  in  our  own  country,  have  furnished  the 
lovers  of  Ethnological  lore,  with  much  valuable  mate- 
rial for  the  development  of  a  science  which  has,  within 
a  few  short  years,  arrived  at  an  eminent  degree  of 
importance. 


SEPULCHRAL  EFFIGY.  145 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  town  of  Panuco,  are  rains  of 
ancient  places,  scattered  over  an  area  of  several  miles. 
Their  history  is  entirely  unknown  to  the  inhabitants  ; 
nor  do  any  of  them,  as  far  as  I  could  learn,  manifest 
the  slightest  curiosity  to  ascertain  who  were  the  build- 
ers, or  in  what  manner  they  have  been  exterminated 
from  their  ancient  inheritance.  I  could  not  discover 
the  trace  of  a  tradition,  or  conjecture,  on  the  subject, 
among  any  of  the  people,  though  I  sought  for  it  with 
great  diligence. 

Several  days  were  employed  in  exploring  this  neigh- 
borhood, our  toils  being  lightened,  occasionally,  by  the 
discovery  of  things  new  and  strange.  Among  the  rest, 
there  was  one,  which  I  deem  a  very  remarkable  curios- 
ity ;  so  much  so,  that  I  shall  satisfy  myself  with  present- 
ing that  to  the  reader,  as  the  sole-  representative  of  the 
ruins  of  this  interesting  spot.  It  was  a  handsome 
block,  or  slab  of  stone,  of  this  form, 
measuring  seven  feet  in  length,  with 
an  average  of  nearly  two  and  a  half  in  width,  and  one 
foot  in  thickness.  Upon  its  face,  was  beautifully 
wrought,  in  bold  relief,  the  full  length  figure  of  a  man, 
in  a  loose  robe,  with  a  girdle  about  his  loins,  his  arms 
crossed  on  his  breast,  his  head  encased  in  a  close  cap, 
or  casque,  resembling  the  Roman  helmet,  (as  repre- 
sented in  the  etchings  of  Pinelli,)  without  the  crest,  and 
his  feet  and  ankles  bound  with  the  ties  of  sandals. 

The  edges  of  this  block  were  ornamented  with  a 
plain  raised  border,  about  an  inch  and  a  half  square, 
making  a  veiy  neat  and  appropriate  finish  to  the  whole. 
The  execution  was  equal  to  that  of  the  very  best  that 
I  have  seen  among  the  wonderful  relics  of  this  country, 

13 


146  ITS  POSITION  "WHEN  DISCOVERED. 

and  would  reflect  no  discredit  upon  the  artists  of  the 
old  world.  Indeed,  I  doubt  not,  that  the  discovery  of 
such  a  relic  among  the  ruined  cities  of  Italy  or  Egypt, 
would  send  a  thrill  of  unwonted  delight  and  surprise 
through  all  the  marvel-hunting  circles,  and  literary 
clubs,  of  Europe,  and  make  the  fortune  of  the  discov- 
erer. The  figure  is  that  of  a  tall,  muscular  man,  of 
the  finest  proportions.  The  face,  in  all  its  features,  is 
of  the  noblest  class  of  the  European,  or  Caucasian  race. 
The  robe  is  represented  as  made  with  full  sleeves,  and 
falling  a  little  below  the  knees,  exposes  the  fine  propor- 
tions of  the  lower  limbs. 

This  block,  which  I  regarded  with  unusual  interest, 
and  would  by  all  means  have  brought  away  with  me, 
if  it  had  been  in  my  power,  I  found  lying  on  the  side 
of  a  ravine,  partially  resting  upon  the  dilapidated  walls 
of  an  ancient  sepulchre,  of  which  nothing  now  remains 
but  a  loose  pile  of  hewn  stones.  It  was  somewhat 
more  than  four  feet  below  the  present  surface  of  the 
ground,  and  was  brought  to  light  in  the  course  of  my 
excavations,  having  accidently  discovered  a  corner  of 
the  slab,  and  the  loose  stones  about  it,  which  were  laid 
open  by  the  rush  of  waters  in  the  rainy  season,  break- 
ing out  a  new  and  deep  channel  to  the  river.  The 
earth  that  lay  upon  it  was  not  an  artificial  covering.  It 
bore  every  evidence  of  being  the  natural  accumulation 
of  time ;  and  a  very  long  course  of  years  must  have 
been  requisite  to  give  it  so  deep  a  burial. 

I  caused  the  stone  to  be  raised,  and  placed  in  a  good 
position  for  drawing.  The  engraving  on  the  opposite 
page  is  a  correct  and  faithful  sketch  of  this  wonder  of 
ancient  American  art,  as  I  left  it.     Those  of  my  read- 


A  CONJECTURE.  147 

ers  who  have  visited  Europe,  will  not  fail  to  notice  a 
resemblance  between  this,  and  the  stones  that  cover  the 
tombs  of  the  Knights  Templar,  in  some  of  the  ancient 
churches  of  the  old  world.  It  must  not  be  supposed, 
however  strongly  the  prima  facie  evidence  of  the  case 
may  seem  to  favor  the  conjecture,  that  this  resemblance 
affords  any  conclusive  proof,  that  the  work  is  of  Euro- 
pean origin,  or  of  modern  date.  The  material  is  the 
same  as  that  of  all  the  buildings,  and  works  of  art,  in 
this  vicinity,  and  the  style  and  workmanship  are  those 
of  the  great  unknown  artists  of  the  Western  Hemis- 
phere. 

According  to  Gomara,  it  was  customary  with  the 
ancient  Americans,  to  place  the  figure  of  a  deceased 
king  on  the  "  chest"  in  which  his  ashes  were  deposited. 
Is  it  improbable,  when  we  take  into  view  the  progress 
which  the  arts  had  made  among  these  unknown 
nations,  as  evinced  by  the  ruins  I  have  recently  visited, 
and  others  scattered  over  all  this  region,  that  this 
"  chest "  was  sometimes,  nay  generally,  of  stone  ?  That 
it  was  in  fact,  in  the  language  of  oriental  antiquity,  a 
sarcophagus?  And  is  it  not  possible,  that  the  tablet 
which  I  have  here  brought  to  light,  is  that  of  one  of 
the  monarchs  of  that  unknown  race,  by  whom  all  these 
works  were  constructed?  I  am  strongly  of  opinion 
that  it  is  so,  and  that  a  further  and  deeper  exploration  in 
the  same  vicinity,  would  discover  other  relics  of  the  same 
kind,  and  open  to  the  view  of  the  explorer,  the  royal 
cemetery  of  one  of  the  powerful  nations  of  Anahuac. 

If  I  am  justified  in  this  conjecture, — and  it  is  impos- 
sible to  convey  to  the  reader  any  adequate  impression 
of  the  collateral  and  incidental  evidences,  which,  to  one 


148  AN  INFERENCE — A  CONCLUSION. 

on  the  spot,  spring  up  at  every  step,  to  give  color  and 
support  to  such  a  conjecture, — then  may  I  venture  one 
step  farther,  and  infer  that  the  ruins  of  this  vicinity,  are 
those  of  a  capital  city,  a  royal  residence  of  one  of  those 
ancient  empires — the  seat  of  its  court — the  place  of  the 
sepulchres  of  its  kings.  There  is  nothing  either  in 
the  magnitude  and  extent  of  the  ruins,  or  in  the  traces 
of  elaborate  art  expended  in  their  construction  and  fin- 
ish, to  throw  a  shade  over  such  an  inference.  The  area 
occupied  by  them  is  sufficiently  vast  for  the  metropolis 
of  any  empire,  ancient  or  modern.  The  ruins  are  those 
which  might  have  belonged  to  palaces  and  temples,  as 
magnificent  and  extensive  as  any  that  have  yet  been 
discovered  in  the  Western  World.  The  style  and  finish 
of  those  that  are  sufficiently  preserved  to  justify  an 
opinion,  are  as  elaborate  and  complete,  as  the  most  per- 
fect specimens  of  ancient  American  art  that  have  fallen 
under  my  observation.  While  the  evidences  are  not 
slight,  that  a  vast  area  of  similar  remains  lies  buried 
under  the  soil,  which,  for  ages  has  been  accumulating 
upon  them,  by  natural  deposit  during  the  rainy  seasons, 
and  the  gradual  abrasion  of  the  adjacent  mountains. 

If  the  above  inference  be  deemed  admissible,  it  cannot 
be  thought  extravagant  to  conclude,  that  these  ruins  are 
of  very  ancient  date,  and  belong  to  the  history  of  a 
people,  much  older  than  any  respecting  whom  we  have 
any  authentic  records — a  people  who  had  probably 
passed  away  before  the  era  of  the  Spanish  conquest 
It  seems  to  me  impossible  to  come  to  any  other  conclu- 
sion. And  I  cannot  avoid  expressing  my  surprise,  at 
the  apparent  ease  with  which  some  writers  have  arrived 
at  a  different  result.     As  an  argument  on  the  subject 


RUINS  ON  ALL  SIDES.  149 

may  not  be  acceptable  to  all  my  readers,  I  will  not 
cumber  this  part  of  the  work  with  any  further  specula- 
tions, but  reserve  them  for  a  closing  chapter,  which  can 
be  omitted  by  those  whose  minds  are  made  up,  or  who 
do  not  feel  interested  to  go  below  the  surface,  in  order  to 
unravel  the  enigmas  of  time. 

There  are  other  ruins,  situated  south  of  Panuco,  at 
the  distance  of  about  three  leagues.  They  are  known 
as  the  ruins  of  "  Cerro  Chacuaco."  They  are  repre- 
sented as  covering  an  extent  of  about  three  leagues 
square,  with  unquestionable  evidence  that  they  were 
all  comprised  within  the  bounds  of  one  vast  city.  I 
may  also  mention  those  of  "  San  Nicholas,"  distant  five 
leagues  on  the  south  west,  and  those  of  "  A  la  Trinidad," 
about  six  leagues  in  nearly  the  same  direction.  There 
are  also  other  ruins,  of  which  I  obtained  some  informa- 
tion, at  a  still  greater  distance.  Indeed,  it  would  appear 
that  the  whole  region  is  full  of  them,  on  every  side — - 
melancholy  memorials  of  the  immense  numbers,  as  well 
as  of  the  mighty  power  and  wealth  of  the  ill-fated  race, 
that  once  flourished  here.  As  far  as  I  could  rely  upon 
the  information  received,  all  these  ruins  present  the 
same  general  features,  as  those  which  I  have  already 
described.  It  is  probable  that  they  all  belong  to  the 
same  period,  and  were  built  by  the  same  race ;  and  the 
evidence  is  clear  to  my  mind,  that  that  race  was  much 
more  ancient,  and  further  advanced  in  the  arts  of  civili- 
zed life,  than  any  of  the  American  races  now  remain- 
ing, or  any  whose  history  has  come  down  to  us. 

It  was  among  the  ruins  of  "  Cerro  Chacuaco,"  that 
the  two  vases  represented  below,  were  found.  They  are 
made  of  the  common  clay  of  the  country,  well  wrought 


150 


A  PAIR  OP  VASES. 


and  handsomely  formed,  and  could  not  have  been  made 
as  they  are,  without  some  mechanical  contrivance. 
The  head  on  the  first  and  larger  one  is  decidedly  that 
of  the  negro,  with  low,  retreating  forehead,  flat  nose, 
and  thick  lips.  From  this  circumstance,  I  should  judge 
it  to  be  of  recent  origin,  as  there  is  no  evidence  that 
any  of  the  African  race  were  ever  found  in  America, 
till  they  were  introduced  there  as  slaves  in  the  sixteenth 
century.  The  natives,  degraded  as  they  are  at  the  pre- 
sent day,  are  not  unskilful  in  the  manufacture  of  pottery, 
for  common  uses ;  and  these,  though  of  a  higher  finish 
than  any  that  I  have  seen  there,  might  have  been  lost, 
or  left  among  the  ruins,  by  some  passing  traveller.  I 
am  the  more  inclined  to  this  opinion,  from  the  circum- 
stance that  the  people  here  take  no  interest  whatever  in 
examining  the  ruins,  and  would  never  think  of  going 
beneath  the  surface,  to  find  anything  that  might  be 
buried  under  them.  I  therefore  conclude  that  these 
must  have  been  found  in  some  open  place,  above 
ground,  where  they  could  not  have  lain  many  years, 
without  crumbling  into  decay. 


*  •■** 


CHAPTER    X. 

DISCOVERY    OF    TALISMANIC    PENATES. RETURN    BY    NIGHT    TO 

TAMPICO. 

Speculations  upon  the  images. — Superstitious  reliance  of  the 
natives  upon  them  in  seasons  of  sickness. — Blending  of  idola- 
tries.— Clue  to  the  solution  of  a  great  problem. — Far-fetched 
theories. — The  New  World  peopled  from  the  Old. — Similar- 
ity in  the  objects  and  forms  of  worship,  good  evidence  of 
similarity  of  origin. — Peculiar  ugliness  and  obesity  of  many 
of  the  idols  of  Asia.— Ugnee,  of  Hindostan. — Gan,  of  China. 
— Fottei,  of  Japan. — Conclusion  to  be  drawn  from  these 
facts. — Confirmed  by  the  claims  of  the  Chinese  to  the  first 
discovery  of  America. — Still  further  by  the  analogy  between 
the  languages  of  America  and  those  of  Tartary. — Predilec- 
tion of  idolatry  for  ugliness. — Return  by  night  to  Tampico^ — 
Rumors  of  war. — French  retailers. — Mexico  backing  out. 

In  the  course  of  my  explorations  among  these  interest- 
ing and  melancholy  relics  of  by-gone  ages,  I  discovered 
two  very  singular  and  grotesque  looking  images,  which 
have  given  rise  to  no  little  speculation  in  my  own 
mind.  I  have  the  pleasure  of  presenting,  at  the  close 
of  the  chapter,  correct  drawings  of  these  to  the  reader. 
The  originals  are  deposited  in  the  museum  of  the  New 
York  Historical  Society.     I  had  little  doubt,  when  I 


m  *^< 


152  SPECULATIONS. 

discovered  these  images,  that  they  once  figured  in  the 
idolatrous  worship  of  the  aboriginal  inhabitants  of  the 
country ;  but  what  place  to  assign  them  in  that  myste- 
rious Pandemonium, — whether  to  call  them  god  or 
devil,  whether  to  class  them  with  the  deities  that  pre- 
side over  the  affections,  or  to  give  them  rank  with  those 
of  a  more  intellectual  character,  I  have  been  utterly  at 
a  loss  to  conjecture.  I  have  been  somewhat  inclined, 
of  late,  to  lean  to  the  opinion  that  they  belong  to  the 
former  class,  as  I  found  images  of  the  same  kind  in  use 
among  the  Indian  women,  who  wore  them  suspended 
about  their  necks,  and  attributed  to  them  something 
like  a  talismanic  influence.  They  are  especially  relied 
upon  in  seasons  of  sickness, — but,  whether  supposed  to 
have  power  to  frighten  away,  by  their  pre-eminent 
ugliness,  the  ugliest  shapes  of  disease,  or  to  conciliate 
the  genius  of  health,  by  awakening  his  sympathies  for 
the  dreadful  ills  which  flesh  is  heir  to,  and  the  mon- 
strous deformities  in  human  frame,  which  are  often  the 
result  of  disease, — or  whether  the  contemplation  of 
them  is  intended  to  sustain  and  solace  the  sufferer,  in 
any  condition,  however  lamentable  and  hideous,  to 
which  she  may  have  been  reduced,  by  keeping  con- 
tinually before  her  eyes  the  representation  of  one  more 
hideous  and  lamentable  still,  I  was  not  able  to  deter- 
mine ;  nor  is  it,  perhaps,  material  to  the  interests  of 
science  or  religion,  or  the  melioration  of  suffering 
humanity  in  a  more  enlightened  age,  and  among  more 
civilized  races  of  men,  that  this  point  should  be  settled 
beyond  the  possibility  of  a  doubt ;  since  it  is  by  no 
means  probable,  even  if  it  could  be  proved,  by  the  most 
incontestable  evidence  of  numberless  personal  certifi- 


HUMBUGS.  153 

cates,  and  well  authenticated  cases  of  positive  relief,  or 
almost  miraculous  cures,  that  the  ladies  of  our  day, 
and  in  our  highly  favored  country,  could  be  induced  to 
substitute  them  for  the  infallible,  health-imparting,  life- 
restoring  panaceas,  catholicons,  medicated  lozenges, 
sugar-crusted  pills,  vegetable  anodyne  restoratives, 
medicinal  rejuvenescent  cordials,  magnetic  rings,  et  id 
omnes  genus,  whose  name  is  legion,  promising  immor- 
tal life  and  beauty  to  all  who  are  so  fortunate  as  to 
secure  a  seasonable  share  of  their  influence.  It  was 
not  with  any  view  to  set  up  an  opposition  to  this  well 
disciplined  army  of  the  inveterate  and  the  veteran  ene- 
mies to  the  continued  reign  of  death  and  disease  in  our 
world,  that  I  brought  home  with  me  some  of  these 
remarkable  images  :  nor  is  it  with  any  hope  of  raising 
a  successful  competition  with  regularly-educated,  duly 
licensed  and  long  established  physicians,  whether  of 
the  old  school  or  the  new,  whether  they  administer  their 
homoeopathic  infmitesmals  upon  the  point  of  a  cambric 
needle,  or  shovel  in  their  allcepathic  doses  by  the  cart- 
load, that  I  have  ventured  upon  this  learned  and  pro- 
found disquisition  upon  the  remarkable  discovery, 
which  it  was  my  fortune  to  make.  And  I  beg  leave 
here  to  give  due  and  solemn  notice  to  all  the  world, 
that,  if  this  singular  accident  should  chance  to  be 
the  means  of  introducing  a  new  epoch  in  American 
therapeutics,  I  hold  myself,  my  heirs,  executors,  admin- 
istrators and  assigns,  utterly  and  for  ever  exempt 
from  all  and  singular  the  consequences  and  results 
thereof. 

In  the  present  use  of  these  talismanic  images,  there 
is  a  very  singular,  and,  I  am  inclined  to  think,  an  un- 


154  BLENDING  OP  IDOLATRIES. 

exampled  blending  of  the  old  pagan  idolatry  of  the 
Indians,  with  the  image  worship  of  their  newly  adopted 
religion.  They  are  all,  as  the  reader  is  no  doubt  aware, 
regarded  as  converts  to  the  Christian  religion,  under 
the  instruction  of  the  Priests  of  the  Church  of  Rome. 
They  are,  for  the  most  part,  very  scrupulous  in  observ- 
ing all  the  customs  and  requirements  of  that  church. 
The  images  I  here  refer  to  are  hollow,  with  a  small 
aperture  near  one  of  the  shoulders.  They  are  filled 
with  balls,  about  as  large  as  an  ordinary  pea,  which 
are  supposed  to  have  been  made  of  the  ashes  of  victims 
sacrificed,  in  former  days,  to  these  gods.  In  this  man- 
ner they  were  consecrated  to  demon- worship.  Whether, 
in  their  present  accommodation  to  a  species  of  Chris- 
tian idolatry,  these  balls  are  regarded  as  a  substitute 
for  "  beads, "  or  as  "  relics  "  of  martyrs  to  a  faith  in  an 
"  unknown  god "  and  an  unknown  form  of  worship, 
I  am  unable  to  say.  I  only  know  that  the  images, 
with  their  contents,  are  regarded  with  a  profoundly 
superstitious  interest,  and  relied  upon  in  seasons  of 
peculiar  peril. 

It  may,  perhaps,  be  thought,  that  I  am  making  too 
much  capital  out  of  a  very  trifling  circumstance,  if  I 
should  say,  that  in  the  course  of  my  meditations  upon 
these  ugly  little  demons,  I  imagined  I  had  found  in  them, 
the  means  of  solving  one  of  the  great  problems  which 
have  divided  and  perplexed  philosophers,  ever  since  the 
discovery  of  our  continent.  But  I  deny  "  the  soft  im- 
peachment ; "  I  protest  strenuously  against  the  unkind 
imputation.  If  the  falling  of  an  apple  led  Sir  Isaac 
Newton  to  the  discovery  of  one  of  the  great  first  prin- 
ciples and  fundamental  laws  of  nature, — if  the  clatter- 


FAR  FETCHED  THEORIES.  155 

ing  of  the  lid  of  his  mother's  tea-kettle,  unfolded  to  the 
inquisitive  mind  of  Watt,  the  powers  and  mysteries  of 
steam,  that  semi-omnipotent  agent  in  the  affairs  of  our 
little  world, — if  the  earth's  profile,  as  sketched  on  the 
disc  of  the  moon  in  an  eclipse,  convinced  the  sagacious 
mind  of  Columbus,  that  he  could  get  round  on  the 
other  side,  without  danger  of  falling  off, — who  shall 
presume  to  say,  that  this  discovery  of  a  pair  of  ugly 
little  personages,  belonging  to  the  system  of  idol  divin- 
ities of  an  unknown  race  of  people,  will  not  prove  to  the 
inquiring  mind  of  some  other,  though  less  profound 
philosopher,  the  clue  by  which  the  great  mystery  of 
their  origin  shall  at  length  be  effectually  solved  1 

I  will  not  answer  for  it,  that  my  theory  in  this  case 
shall  be  as  far  fetched,  ingenious  or  elaborate,  as  many 
others  that  have  gained  the  favor  and  support  of  learned 
and  worthy  names.  I  only  engage  to  make  out  as  good 
a  case  as  some  of  my  predecessors  in  the  same  wide 
field ; — those,  for  example,  who  have  undertaken  to  show 
that  the  abroginal  inhabitants  of  America,  are  the  de- 
scendants of  Abraham  and  probably  the  lost  ten  tribes, 
who  were  carried  away  into  Assyria,  in  what  is  termed 
the  first  captivity  under  Shalmaneser.  These  learned 
theorists  have  considered  their  case  fully,  and  incontes- 
tably  made  out,  when  they  have  discovered  ten  words 
in  a  thousand  of  the  language,  to  bear  some  distant, 
and,  in  many  cases,  fanciful  resemblance  to  words  of 
the  same  import  in  the  ancient  Hebrew ;  or  when  they 
have  traced,  in  their  religious  rites  and  usages,  some 
slight  analogies  with  the  imposing  ceremonials  of  the 
Mosaic  ritual.  In  drawing  their  sage  conclusions  from 
these  attenuated  premises,  they  have  not  troubled  them- 


156     THE  NEW  WORLD  PEOPLED  PROM  THE  OLD. 

selves  to  consider  what  an  overwhelming  effect  it  would 
have  upon  their  theory,  to  weigh  the  nine  hundred  and 
ninety  words  in  a  thousand,  which  have  not  the  most 
distant  resemblance  to  the  Hebrew,  or  the  multitude  of 
idolatrous  rites,  and  heathenish  mummeries,  which 
were  utterly  and  irreconcilably  at  variance  with  the 
spirit  and  letter  of  the  ancient  Scriptures.  It  is  easy 
enough  to  make  a  theory,  and  to  support  it  manfully,  as 
long  as  you  can  keep  your  eyes  shut  to  every  fact  that 
militates  against  it.  But  alas !  the  great  majority  of 
such  creations  vanish  as  soon  as  the  eyes  are  opened, 
even  as  the  pageant  of  a  dream  vanishes  before  the 
morning  light. 

But,  not  to  lose  sight  of  my  own  good  theory,  let  us 
return  to  my  little  images,  and  to  the  thoughts  which 
they  have  suggested,  in  relation  to  the  long  agitated, 
and  still  unsettled  question  of  the  origin  of  the  first 
inhabitants  of  this  continent.  In  the  first  place, — I  take 
it  for  granted,  that  the  new  world,  as  it  is  called,  was 
peopled  from  the  old.  For,  no  one  who  takes  the  Bible 
as  his  guide,  will  suppose  that  more  than  one  pair 
was  created,  or  doubt  that  the  residence  of  that  first 
pair,  and  their  immediate  descendants,  was  in  Asia. 
And  if  any  one  rejects  the  testimony  of  the  Bible,  my 
argument  is  not  intended  for  him. 

In  the  second  place, — it  will  be  admitted  that  a  close 
correspondence  in  the  forms  of  worship,  and  in  the 
appearance  and  character  of  the  objects  of  worship,  is 
one  of  the  best  grounds  for  supposing  a  similarity  of 
origin  in  any  two  races  of  people.  There  is  scarcely 
any  thing  of  which  nations  are  more  tenacious,  and  by 
which  they  can  be  more  safely  recognized  and  identi- 


UGLINESS  DEIFIED.  157 

fied,  than  the  forms  and  ceremonies  of  their  religion. 
Strange  and  inexpicable  as  it  is,  they  change  oftener 
and  more  easily  in  matters  of  Faith,  than  in  matters  of 
Form.  Nearly  three  thousand  years  ago,  it  was  laid 
down  as  a  principle  not  to  be  questioned,  that  the  relig- 
ion of  a  people,  especially  of  idolaters,  was  not  liable  to 
sudden  and  voluntary  change.  Pass  over  the  isles  of 
Chittim  and  see,  and  send  unto  Kedar,  and  consider 
diligently,  and  see  if  there  be  any  such  thing.  Hath 
a  nation  changed  their  gods,  which  are  yet  no  gods  ? 
But  my  people  have  changed  their  glory  for  that 
which  doth  not  profit. 

Now,  to  bring  these  principles  to  bear  upon  the  object 
I  have  in  view,  let  it  be  observed, — First,  that,  in  the 
mythology  of  all  the  pagan  nations,  in  Asia,  many  of 
the  idols  they  worship,  are  the  most  monstrous  and 
hideous  deformities  imaginable.  Ugliness,  in  every 
conceivable  shape,  is  deified.  Secondly, — some  of  the 
ugliest  of  these  deities  are  distinguished  for  their  obesity. 
Thirdly, — as  an  example  of  these,  take  Ugnee,  the 
regent  of  fire,  among  the  Hindoos,  who  is  represented 
as  a  veiy  corpulent  man,  riding  on  a  goat,  with  copper 
colored  eye  brows,  beard,  hair  and  eyes.  His  corpu- 
lency is  held  by  the  Brahmins,  as  an  indication  of  his 
benevolence,  and  his  readiness  to  grant  the  desires  of  his 
worshippers.  Fourthly, — among  the  idols  of  China, 
some  are  described  as  monstrous  figures,  hideous  to 
behold.  Among  the  number  is  Gan,  who  has  a  broad 
face,  and  a  prodigious  great  belly.  Fifthly, — Fottei, 
who  is  sometimes  called  Miroku,  one  of  the  best,  and 
most  prominent  of  the  Japanese  deities,  is  represented 
with    the    same    deformity,   a  huge  distended  belly. 

14 


4 

158  THE  PROBLEM  SETTLED. 

Another  circumstance,  not  inapposite  to  our  purpose  is 
this,  that  the  worshippers  of  Miroku,  in  Japan,  expect 
to  receive  from  his  benevolent  assistance,  among  other 
good  things,  health,  riches,  and  children. 

Now,  put  these  facts  together,  and  associate  with 
them  the  facts  of  the  existence  of  similar  images  of  wor- 
ship among  the  natives  of  America,  and  of  the  reliance 
of  those  natives  upon  them  for  aid  in  times  of  sickness, 
and  will  it  not  go  far  to  prove  a  positive  relationship 
between  them  and  the  inhabitants  of  Hindostan,  China, 
or  Japan  1  I  trust  no  one  will  presume  to  dispute  it, 
after  the  pains  I  have  taken,  and  the  learning  and 
research  I  have  displayed  in  proving  it.  The  problem 
of  ages  may  be  considered  as  settled.  It  is  no  longer  a 
vexed  question. 

The  reader  will  be  pleased  to  observe,  that  the 
Japanese  god  Miroku,  is  expected  to  give  to  his  votaries 
health  and  children.  Does  not  this  last  circumstance 
bear  with  unanswerable  weight  and  significancy,  upon 
my  position ;  and  prove,  beyond  the  possibility  of  doubt 
or  peradventure,  that  the  Aborigines  of  America,  emi- 
grated from  Japan  1  The  images  which  I  have  dis- 
covered, and  which  form  the  subject  of  this  erudite 
disquisition,  are  worn,  as  I  have  before  remarked,  by 
the  women  of  America,  in  the  time  of  sickness.  Now,  it 
is  an  established  fact,  that,  in  all  nations  and  in  all  ages, 
the  one  great  and  laudable  desire  of  woman  is,  that  she 
may  be  blessed  with  children.  For  this  she  suffers, 
and  for  this  she  prays.  The  reliance,  therefore,  of  the 
women  of  Japan  and  the  women  of  America,  upon 
these  ugly-looking,  corpulent  little  demons,  to  assist 
them  in  attaining  this  one  prevalent,  paramount  desire, 


CHINESE  DISCOVERIES.  159 

establishes  the  sameness  of  their  origin,  and  leaves  no 
lingering  doubt  in  my  mind,  and,  of  course,  none  in  the 
mind  of  the  intelligent  and  candid  reader,  that,  wherever 
the  men  of  those  almost  exterminated  races  may  have 
come  from,  they  certainly  brought  their  wives  from 
Japan. 

If  it  were  desirable  to  go  farther  to  prove  my  point, 
I  might  allude  for  strong  confirmation,  to  the  fact,  as 
laid  down  in  an  old  writer,  that  the  Chinese  claim  to 
have  discovered  America,  more  than  two  hundred 
years  before  Columbus  attempted  to  cross  the  Atlantic. 
It  was  in  the  year  1270,  that  China  was  overrun  by  the 
Tartars  ;  and  it  is  given  out,  that  a  body  of  one  hun- 
dred thousand  inhabitants,  refusing  obedience  to  their 
new  masters,  set  sail,  in  one  thousand  ships,  to  find  a 
new  country,  or  perish  in  the  enterprise.  The  origin 
of  Mexico  is  thus  accounted  for.  And  nothing  is  more 
natural  than  to  suppose,  that,  in  making  up  so  mag- 
nificent an  expedition,  they  would  find  some  of  their 
Japanese  neighbors  desirous  to  accompany  them. 

In  addition  to  this,  the  learned  philologists,  who  have 
investigated  the  languages  of  the  Aboriginal  nations, 
with  a  view  to  tracing  their  origin,  have  found,  in  the 
names  of  places  and  things,  many  striking  correspon- 
dencies with  the  language  of  Japan.  And  Barton,  one 
of  our  own  countrymen,  has  published  a  very  elaborate 
treatise  on  the  subject,  in  which  he  undertakes,  and,  as 
he  thinks,  successfully,  to  prove,  that  the  language 
originally  spoken  in  both  the  Americas,  are  radically 
one  and  the  same  with  those  of  the  various  nations, 
which  are  known  by  the  general  name  of  Tartars. 

Having  got  my  hand    in,   and  feeling   somewhat 


160  TRAVELLING  BY  NIGHT. 

encouraged  by  the  singular  success  of  the  above 
triumphant  philosophical  disquisition,  I  am  strongly 
tempted  to  trespass  upon  the  patience  of  the  reader, 
while  I  proceed  to  inquire  into  the  probable  reasons 
why  the  worshippers  of  idols,  who  have  the  choosing  of 
their  own  gods,  so  generally  delight  in  those  of  gro- 
tesque and  ugly  shapes,  and  unseemly  proportions. 
Since  our  fellow-creatures,  even  our  wives  and  our 
children,  are  loved  and  cherished  in  proportion  as  they 
are  rendered  lovely  to  the  sight  by  the  graces  of  form, 
feature,  complexion  and  expression,  how  happens  it  that 
those  objects  of  adoration,  who  are  supposed  to  preside 
over  and  control  the  interest  and  destinies  of  men,  in 
all  their  relations  to  each  other,  and  the  dearest  objects 
of  their  affections,  should  be  clothed  in  forms  of  the 
most  unnatural  and  disgusting  appearance?  But  I 
forbear. 

I  had  passed  several  days  among  the  ruins  of 
Panuco.  They  were  days  of  unusual  mental  excite- 
ment, and  bodily  fatigue.  There  was  enough  around 
me  to  occupy  and  interest  me  many  days  longer.  But 
I  was  unprepared  for  the  investigation.  I  had  gratified, 
but  by  no  means  satisfied,  my  curiosity ;  and  my  atten- 
tion was  now  necessarily  turned  from  the  sepulchres 
of  the  dead,  towards  the  dwellings  of  the  living.  I 
gathered  up  my  little  stock  of  relics,  consisting  chiefly 
of  idol  images,  found  among  the  dilapidated  temples 
and  dwellings  of  the  departed,  and,  with  no  little  diffi- 
culty, conveyed  them  in  safety  to  "  the  lady's  room." 
Taking  a  last  farewell  of  this  apartment,  and  of  the 
friends  who  entertained  me  there,  I  betook  myself  again 
to  my  canoe,  bestowing  my  little  demons  carefully  in 


ARRIVAL  AT  TAMP1C0-  161 

the  bottom,  and  covering  them  with  my  hammock,  and 
other  travelling  apparatus.  The  voyage  down  the  river 
was  as  quiet  and  beautiful  as  can  be  conceived.  The 
greater  part  of  it  was  performed  at  night,  under  favor 
of  a  full  moon,  through  fear  of  being  surprised  by  the 
natives,  who,  in  that  event,  either  from  superstition  or 
jealousy,  would,  no  doubt,  have  deprived  me  of  my 
small  collection  of  idols. 

I  arrived  at  Tampico  in  the  early  part  of  April. 
Mine  host  of  the  French  Hotel  was  as  ready  to  receive, 
me,  as  on  my  first  arrival  in  the  city,  and  his  "  accom- 
modations "  were  equally  inviting.  The  city  was  in  a 
state  of  considerable  excitement,  in  consequence  of  the 
daily  expectation  of  the  declaration  of  War  by  France. 
The  Mexican  Congress  had,  sometime  before,  passed  a 
law,  forbidding  any  foreigner  to  carry  on  a  retail  busi- 
ness in  Mexico,  after  a  certain  specified  time,  on  peril 
of  confiscation.  This  law  deeply  affected  the  interests 
of  a  considerable  number  of  Frenchmen,  who,  under 
the  protection  of  the  previous  statutes,  had  established 
themselves  in  the  country,  investing  their  little  all  in  the 
retail  business.  It  was,  in  fact,  a  decree  of  banishment, 
without  any  alleged  fault  on  their  part,-  and  with  the 
certain  sacrifice  of  all  their  property. 

The  day  arrived  when  the  invidious  law  was  to  go 
into  effect.  The  French  retailers,  acting  under  instruc- 
tions from  their  government,  and  a  promise  of  protec- 
tion in  any  event,  took  a  careful  inventory  of  their 
goods,  locked  up  their  stores,  placed  the  keys,  with  the 
certified  inventory,  in  the  hands  of  their  Consuls,  and 
waited  the  result.  It  was  a  quiet  and  dignified  move- 
ment on  the  part  of  France,  a  sort  of  silent  defiance 


162  RUMORS  OP  WAR. 

which  could  not  be  misunderstood.  But  it  was  amus- 
ing to  witness  the  different  effects  of  this  state  of  things, 
upon  the  different  classes  of  French  residents.  Some 
of  them,  with  an  air  of  perfect  nonchalance,  as  if  fear- 
ing no  power  on  earth,  and  knowing  no  anxiety  be- 
yond the  present  moment,  improved  the  season  as  a 
holydayr  a  sort  of  carnival  extraordinary,  devoted  to 
visiting,  dancing,  and  all  kinds  of  sports.  Others,  of  a 
more  mercurial  temperament,  blustered  about  the 
streets,  flourishing  their  arms  with  the  most  violent 
gesticulations,  scowling  fearfully,  swearing  huge  oaths 
of  vengeance,  and  seemingly  taking  the  entire  affairs 
of  the.  two  nations  into  their  own  hands.  It  was  a 
windy  war,  And  sure  I  am,  if  the  Mexican  rulers  had 
seen  the  fuming,  and  heard  the  sputtering  of  all  these 
miniature  volcanoes,  they  would  have  felt  the  seat  of 
power  tremble  beneath  them. 

The  result  of  this  movement  proved,  as  thousands  of 
similar  movements  have  done  before,  that  "wisdom 
is  better  than  weapons  of  war."  The  Mexicans  were 
completely  non-plus'd.  The  offensive  law  was  not 
violated  in  any  case,  and  they  had  no  handle  for  a 
further  act  of  oppression.  The  foreign  residents  only 
stood  on  the  defensive,  and  thus  put  the  government 
in  the  wrong.  They  felt  their  position,  and  made  a 
precipitate  retreat.  After  a  few  days  of  awkward 
dalliance,  they  issued  new  instructions  to  the  local 
authorities,  informing  them  that  they  had  misinter- 
preted the  law,  and  misunderstood  its  purport.  It  was 
thus  virtually  abrogated,  and  the  business  of  foreigners 
has  since  been  suffered  to  flow  on  in  its  ordinary 
channels. 


BACKING  OUT.  163 

It  is  not,  perhaps,  quite  as  awkward  a  matter  for  a 
nation  to  back  out  from  the  position  it  has  deliberately- 
taken  with  reference  to  another,  as  for  an  individual 
to  find  himself  compelled  to  do  the  same  thing  with  refer- 
ence to  his  antagonist.  The  responsibility  is  divided 
among  so  many — the  body  politic  having  no  soul  of  its 
own — that  there  can  be  little,  if  any,  personal  feeling  in 
the  matter.  And  patriotism,  which  is  a  personal  virtue 
wherever  it  exists,  has  generally  so  little  to  do  with 
such  movements,  that  we  leave  it  out  of  the  question 
altogether.  But,  agreeable  or  disagreeable,  backing  out 
is  the  only  safe  course,  where  the  weak  have  given 
offence  to  the  strong.  It  is  a  position  and  a  movement 
that  poor,  divided,  distracted  Mexico,  has  become  quite 
familiar  with.  And  there  is  good  reason  to  apprehend 
that  she  will  yet  have  more  experience  of  the  same 
kind.  Her  present  relations  to  the  United  States,  and 
the  ground  she  has  taken  in  reference  to  the  independ- 
ence and  annexation  of  Texas,  leave  little  room  for 
doubt,  that  she  will,  ere  long,  take  another  lesson  in  the 
tactics  of  retreat.  As  long  as  private  ends  are  to  be 
promoted  by  it,  or  the  interests  of  a  political  clique 
advanced,  so  long  she  will  bluster  and  threaten.  More 
than  this  she  will  never  even  attempt  to  do.  For  the 
most  selfish  of  her  political  leaders,  and  the  most  violent 
of  her  blustering  patriots,  knows  too  much  to  stake  his 
all,  and  the  all  of  his  country,  upon  the  cast  of  a  die, 
which  might,  by  possibility,  turn  up  a  war  with  the 
United  States. 

The  probability  is,  with  regard  to  this  very  law,  of 
which  I  have  before  spoken,  that  it  was  never  intended 
to  go  into  full  effect.     It  was  a  mere  money-getting 


«• 


164 


DII  PENATES. 


experiment — a  contrivance  to  levy  black  mail,  in  the 
name  of  the  state,  upon  the  foreign  residents.  They 
took  it  for  granted,  while  passing  the  law,  that  the  par- 
ties against  whose  interests  it  was  aimed,  would  at 
once  propose  to  buy  off,  and  that  large  bribes  would 
be  offered  to  secure  exemption  from  its  effects.  And 
the  only  chagrin  they  experienced,  in  finding  them- 
selves out-generaled  by  a  sagacious  adversary,  arose 
from  the  necessity  of  relinquishing  the  expected  booty. 
But  let  me  not  longer  detain  the  reader  from  his 
promised  introduction  to  the  Talismanic  Images,  the 
ugly  little  divinities  of  the  ancient  dames  of  Anahuac. 
Ecce  Dii  Penates  ! 


CHAPTER    II. 

EXCURSION  ON    THE    TAMISSEE    RIVER.       CHAPOTE,    ITS  APPEAR- 
ANCE IN   THE  LAKES  AND  THE  GUEF  OF  MEXICO. 

Once  more  in  a  canoe.— The  Tamissee  river.— Fertility  of  its 
banks. — Wages  on  the  plantations. — Magnificent  trees. — 
Mounds  on  Carmelote  creek. — entertained  by  a  Yankee. — 
Character  and  condition  of  the  people. — The  Chapote. — Ob- 
served on  the  lakes  in  the  interior  of  Mexico. — Seen  also  in 
the  Gulf. — Article  in  Hunt's  Merchants'  Magazine. — Specu- 
lations of  the  writer  upon  the  Gulf  Stream. — Supposed  con- 
nection with  the  Pacific  ocean. — Objections  to  this  theory. — 
Another  view  of  the  matter. — Insects. — Return  to  Tampico. 
The  city  in  mourning. 

It  was  not  enough  for  me  to  know  that  I  had 
arrived  at  Tampico.  I  soon  became  uneasy ;  and, 
being  desirous  to  make  the  best  use  of  my  time,  my 
thoughts  were  immediately  turned  upon  resuming  my 
paddle  in  some  other  direction.  Accordingly,  in  the 
evening  of  an  early  day,  I  found  myself  once  more  in 
a  canoe,  with  an  Indian  for  a  companion,  going  up  the 
Tamissee  River,  for  the  purpose  of  visiting  the  creeks 
that  empty  into  it  at  different  points,  and  of  ascertaining 
what  ruins  might  be  found  in  their  vicinity. 


166  THE  TAMISSEE ITS  FERTILE  BANKS. 

This  river  rises  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains  near 
Victoria,  and  falls  into  the  Panuco  at  Tampico.  It  is 
navigable  about  forty  leagues,  for  any  vessel  that  can 
pass  the  bar,  at  which  the  depth  of  water  is  only  eight 
or  nine  feet.  The  average  depth  of  the  stream  is  eight 
fathoms, — and  a  ship  of  a  hundred  guns,  might  haul 
up  close  to  the  side  of  its  banks.  This  river  rises  and 
falls  but  little,  and  there  are  no  towns  situated  upon  its 
margin.  Its  crystal  waters  are  well  stocked  with  fish, 
of  various  kinds.  The  scenery,  on  either  side,  is  exceed- 
ingly beautiful,  opening  occasionally,  as  you  pass  along, 
the  most  picturesque  landscapes,  and  then  completely 
embowering  you  in  the  shade  of  the  luxuriant  trees, 
that  overhang  the  stream. 

The  borders  of  the  Tamissee,  with  a  soil  of  exceed- 
ing richness  and  fertility,  are  under  Indian  cultivation, 
and  supply  the  market  of  Tampico  with  fruit  and 
vegetables.  The  plantain  is  in  great  request  there,  and 
plantations  for  cultivating  it  are  numerous  and  exten- 
sive. Its  growth  is  luxuriant,  and  its  flavor  particularly 
rich  and  agreeable.  Sugar  cane  grows  almost  sponta- 
neously, and  in  such  abundance  that  credulity  itself  is 
staggered  at  the  thought.  One  planting,  without  fur- 
ther care  or  labor,  is  all  that  it  requires  of  human 
attention,  for  fifteen  or  twenty  years.  I  measured  a 
cane  which  had  been  planted  nine  years.  It  was  vigor- 
ous and  thrifty,  as  if  of  last  year's  planting,  had  grown 
to  the  enormous  length  of  twenty-one  feet,  and  exhibited 
forty-five  joints.  The  product  of  the  juice,  though  not 
perhaps  in  full  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  plant,  is 
much  greater  than  that  of  the  ordinary  cane.  Thirty- 
two  gallons  of  the  juice  will  yield  no  less  than  twelve 


A  DRAWBACK  TO  PROFITABLE  CULTIVATION.    167 

pounds  of  sugar.  This  is  considered  only  a  fair 
average.  That  this  gigantic  cane  is  in  very  tall  com- 
pany, will  be  seen  from  the  fact  that  the  bamboo,  which 
I  have  often  measured,  grows  to  the  height  of  sixty 
feet. 

Wages,  on  these  plantations,  including  the  amount 
of  one  dollar  allowed  in  rations  of  corn,  are  seven 
dollars  per  month,  which,  if  properly  husbanded,  and 
prudently  expended,  would  afford  a  comfortable  sub- 
sistence to  the  laborer.  But  the  Indians,  who  perform 
all  this  kind  of  labor,  are,  as  I  have  before  had  occasion 
to  remark,  proverbially  lazy  and  shiftless.  Great  diffi- 
culty is  experienced,  in  all  this  country,  in  keeping 
them  steadily  at  any  kind  of  work.  To  find  one  of 
them  so  industrious  and  thoughtful,  as  to  have  any 
thing  in  advance  of  the  absolute  wants  of  the  day, 
would  be  matter  of  astonishment.  They  work  only 
when  they  are  hungry,  and  stop  as  soon  as  they  are 
fed.  The  instincts  of  nature  alone  can  rouse  them  to 
make  any  exertion,  unless  compelled  by  some  superior 
force,  or  a  contract  from  which  they  cannot  escape. 

The  price  of  the  ordinary  sugar,  in  this  vicinity,  is 
only  about  two  cents  per  pound  ;  but  the  clay-clarified 
is  worth  from  twelve  to  fourteen  cents,  a  price  which, 
it  would  seem,  would  amply  remunerate  the  manufac- 
turer. And  yet  I  do  not  know  of  an  establishment 
of  the  kind  in  any  section  of  this  country.  If  any 
enterprising  Yankee  should  take  the  hint,  and  realize 
a  fortune  in  the  enterprise,  I  trust  he  will  bear  in 
mind,  as  he  retires,  that  "  one  good  turn  deserves 
another." 

In  pursuing  my  different  routes  through  the  woods. 


* 

168  THE  ROYAL  PALM. 

and  along  the  water  courses,  of  Mexico,  I  have  often 
been  struck  with  the  immense  size,  and  luxuriant 
foliage  of  the  trees.  The  Banyan,  or  Wild  fig,  in  par- 
ticular— of  which  I  had  occasion  to  take  some  notice 
before — with  its  numerous  gigantic  trunks,  propping  up 
its  great  lateral  branches,  from  which  they  had  origi- 
nally descended  in  slender  suckers,  often  covers  an 
immense  area.  Possessing  within  itself  the  material 
for  a  vast  forest,  it  presents  to  the  beholder  a  magnifi- 
cent and  imposing  spectacle.  From  some  points  of 
view,  when  favorably  situated,  it  has  the  aspect  of  a 
vast  natural  temple,  with  its  "  long  drawn  aisles  "  and 
its  almost  endless  colonnades  supporting  a  roof  over- 
grown with  trees,  and  walls  hung  with  clustering  vines. 
The  gloomy  recesses  within,  would  seem  a  fitting  altar- 
place  for  the  bloody  rites  of  that  dark  idolatry,  which 
once  overshadowed  these  beautiful  regions. 

The  fan  palm,  called  here  palma  real  or  royal  palm, 
rises  from  seventy  to  eighty  feet  in  height.  It  is  a 
magnificent  tree,  and  whether  seen  in  clusters,  or  alone, 
is  always  beautiful.  With  its  tall  straight  trunk,  and  its 
richly  tufted  crown  of  fringed  leaves,  waving  and  trem- 
bling in  every  breath  of  air  that  stirs,  and  glistening  in 
the  sun  with  a  beautiful  lustre,  it  has  a  glory  and  a 
grace  peculiar  to  itself.  It  was  so  abundant  in  this 
region,  at  the  time  of  the  conquest,  that  the  Panuco 
was  then  called  the  Rio  des  Palmas,  the  River  of 
Palms.  A  great  variety  of  other  trees  are  met  with 
here,  of  magnificent  size  and  splendid  foliage,  waving 
their  brilliant  branches  in  the  breeze,  and  presenting 
strong  inducements  to  the  traveller  continually  to 
pause  in   wonder  and    admiration.      In    good   sooth, 


EXTENSIVE  RUINS.  169 

it  may  be  said  that  "  man  is  the  only  thing  that 
dwindles  here." 

Having  hauled  up  under  a  tree,  made  fast  our  canoe, 
and  spread  my  blanket  over  me,  I  passed  a  comfortable 
night,  as  I  had  often  done  before,  in  the  same  primitive 
way.  In  the  morning,  I  continued  on  my  way  two  or 
three  leagues  farther  up  the  river,  where  I  found  ruins, 
similar,  in  their  general  character,  to  those  I  have 
already  described.  They  covered  a  considerable  space, 
and  were  buried  in  some  places,  beneath  masses  of 
vegetable  mould,  and  in  others,  overgrown  with  trees 
of  immense  size  and  great  age.  I  wandered  up  and 
down  among  them,  for  a  considerable  time,  sometimes 
cutting  my  way  through  the  thick  forest,  and  some- 
times clambering  over  piles  of  broken  stones,  and  long 
dilapidated  walls,  till  I  was  quite  weary  with  my  labors. 
But  I  made  no  discoveries  of  sufficient  interest  to  require 
a  particular  description.  Eveiy  thing  was  so  utterly 
ruinous,  that  it  was  impossible  to  trace  out  the  lines  of 
a  single  building,  or  determine  the  boundaries  of  the 
city,  in  any  direction. 

Some  distance  farther  up,  on  Carmelote  Creek,  there 
are  other  ruins,  in  the  midst  of  which  there  are  seven- 
teen large  mounds,  of  a  somewhat  peculiar  construc- 
tion. Though  in  a  pretty  good  state  of  preservation,  I 
found  that  the  walls  were  not  built  of  stone.  I  pene- 
trated one  of  them  to  some  distance,  but  discovered 
nothing  but  earth  and  mortar,  and  broken  pieces  of 
potteiy,  with  a  few  rude  specimens  of  carved  images, 
cut  in  concrete  sandstone.  Some  of  the  latter  were 
as  large  as  life.  One  of  these  I  brought  away  with 
me ;  also  several  fragments  of  Penates,  some  of  which 

15 


170  A  YANKEE  HOME. 


M 


are  represented  in  the  engraving  at  the  close  of  this 
chapter. 

The  mortar  in  these  mounds  seems  to  have  been 
placed  in  layers  at  the  bottom  of  the  walls,  but  for 
what  purpose  I  could  not  discover.  It  was  not  used  as 
a  cement,  for,  as  I  have  said,  there  were  no  stones  to 
be  cemented.  It  was  my  opinion  that  these  mounds 
were  erected  as  places  of  burial,  but  there  were  no 
bones  to  be  found,  nor  other  traces  of  human  remains. 

At  night,  I  came  to  a  house,  which  seemed  more 
like  home  than  any  thing  I  had  seen  in  Mexico.  The 
very  sight  of  it  was  refreshing  to  the  traveller. 
The  arrangements  were  all  made  with  good  taste  and 
judgment,  and  a  due  regard  to  comfort.  The  grounds 
were  pleasantly  laid  out,  and  beautifully  ornamented 
with  trees  and  flowers.  On  inquiry,  I  learned,  as 
might  have  been  expected,  that  this  inviting  looking 
place  was  built  and  occupied  by  a  thriving  Yankee, 
who  had  brought  with  him  to  Mexico  his  good  notions 
of  husbandly  and  house-keeping.  He  gave  me  a 
hearty  welcome  to  his  house,  and  entertained  me,  for 
the  night,  with  the  greatest  kindness  and  hospitality. 
If  there  were  a  few  more  such  hospitable,  home- 
like resting-places,  distributed  here  and  there  among 
these  interesting  regions,  it  would  be  vastly  more 
agreeable  and  comfortable  to  the  jaded  traveller,  who 
attempts  to  explore  their  time-honored  ruins. 

The  native  Mexicans,  in  these  parts,  are  an  indolent, 
haughty,  overbearing  race.  Still  adhering  to  the  bar- 
barous policy  of  old  Spain,  they  hold  the  people  of  every 
nation  except  their  own,  however  much  they  may  be  in 
advance  of  them,  in  utter  contempt.     They  are  deci- 


the"chapote"  in  the  lakes.  171 

dedly  the  most  disagreeable  class  of  people  in  this  coun- 
try. There  is  little  intelligence  or  information  among 
them.  Education  is  at  a  very  low  ebb.  There  are 
some  bright  exceptions  to  this  general  remark  ;  but  they 
are  lamentably  few  and  far  between.  Whether  a  good 
school-master  would  be  well  sustained  in  this  region,  is 
a  question  which  I  am  not  prepared  to  answer ;  but  cer- 
tain I  am  he  would  find  ample  scope  for  the  exercise  of 
his  vocation — a  native  soil  wholly  unoccupied,  except 
with  weeds. 

In  pursuing  my  adventures,  I  stopped  frequently  at 
the  different  milpas  that  lay  in  the  way  ;  but  nothing 
like  thrift  or  comfort  was  any  where  visible.  A  rude 
hovel  with  mud  walls,  and  a  single  room,  is  all  they 
aspire  to,  in  the  way  of  a  dwelling.  The  land  is  rich 
and  fruitful  to  excess,  and  the  lounging,  listless  Indian 
is  the  only  insurmountable  obstacle  to  its  profitable 
cultivation  and  improvement.  In  the  hands  of  our 
southern  planters,  or  of  the  sturdy  farmers  of  the  north- 
ern and  western  states,  this  whole  region  would  become 
a  paradise  of  perennial  fruits  and  flowers,  and  teem  with 
the  golden  treasures  of  every  clime  under  heaven. 

In  some  of  the  fresh  water  lakes,  in  the  interior,  the 
"  chapote,"  a  species  of  asphaltum,  is  found  bubbling  up 
to  the  surface.  When  washed  upon  the  borders,  it  is 
gathered,  and  used  as  a  varnish  upon  the  bottoms  of 
canoes.  It  has  a  peculiar  pungent  smell,  like  that  of 
liquid  asphaltum,  and  possesses,  I  think,  some  of  its 
qualities.  I  have  observed  a  remarkable  phenomenon, 
of  the  same  kind,  out  of  sight  of  land,  in  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  where  the  waters  bubble  up  in  the  same  manner, 
and  accompanied  with  a  similar  smell.     There  can  be 


172  the  "chapote"  in  the  gulf. 

no  doubt  that  the  ebullition  and  effluvia  observed  in  the 
Gulf,  are  the  effect  of  the  same  cause,  which  produces 
the  asphaltic  substance  on  the  surface  of  the  Lakes. 

This  Asphaltic  deposite  in  the  Gulf,  it  appears,  has 
attracted  the  notice  of  others,  and  from  it  a  theory  has 
recently  been  formed,  to  account  for  that  hitherto  unex- 
plained, or  not  satisfactorily  explained  phenomenon,  the 
Gulf  Stream.  The  article  appears  in  the  August  num- 
ber of  Hunt's  Merchant's  Magazine.  As  I  had  remarked 
upon  the  circumstance  before  that  article  was  published, 
and  furnished  my  remarks  to  the  writer,  as  a  confirma- 
tion of  his  statements,  each  of  them  having  been  made 
without  a  knowledge  of  the  other,  I  think  it  not  amiss 
to  present,  in  this  place,  the  substance  of  his  theory, 
and  the  reasons  upon  which  it  is  founded.  I  shall  then 
have  an  opinion  of  my  own  to  present,  which  differs 
materially  from  his. 

The  opinion  of  the  writer  is,  that  the  Gulf  Stream  is 
not  caused  by  the  trade  winds  forcing  into  the  Carib- 
bean Sea,  between  the  South  Caribbee  Islands  and  the 
coast  of  South  America,  a  large  quantity  of  water 
which  can  only  find  vent  into  the  North  Atlantic,  by  the 
Florida  channel.  In  his  view,  there  are  serious  objec- 
tions to  this  theory.  First,  the  water  in  the  Gulf  Stream 
is  hotter  than  that  of  any  part  of  the  Atlantic,  under 
the  equator,  and  therefore  it  cannot  be  that,  which  sup- 
plies this  never  failing  current.  Secondly,  the  water  of 
the  Stream  is  hotter  in  deep  water,  where  the  current 
begins,  or  rather  where  it  has  become  regular  and 
strong,  than  it  is  in  the  Gulf,  on  soundings,  where  there 
is  little  or  no  current,  indicating  that  it  comes  not  from 
the  shores,  but  from  the  bottom  in  deep  water. 


THEORY  OP  THE  GULF  STREAM.  173 

Thirdly,  the  appearance,  in  the  Gnlf,  of  hubbies  of 
asphaltum  constantly  rising  to  the  surface,  and  spread 
over  it  for  a  considerable  distance.  It  has  been  collec- 
ted in  quantities  sufficient  to  cover  vessels  chains,  and 
other  portions  of  the  equipments.  It  is  of  a  bituminous 
character,  offensive  to  the  smell,  and  becomes  hard  on 
exposure  to  the  sun,  forming  a  durable  varnish,  and 
doing  better  service  on  iron  than  any  paint. 

Fourthly,  the  volume  of  the  Gulf  Stream  is  some- 
times so  great,  that  the  Florida  channel  is  not  sufficient 
to  give  it  outlet,  and  the  excess  passes  off  to  the  south 
of  the  Island  of  Cuba.  This  has  been  noticed  to  such 
an  extent,  that  vessels,  in  sailing  across  from  Cape 
Catoche,  the  eastern  extremity  of  Yucatan,  to  Cape 
Corientes  or  Antonio,  are  often  driven  by  it  very  much 
to  the  eastward  of  their  course.  It  is  manifest  that 
such  a  current  could  not  exist,  if  the  Gulf  Stream  were 
supplied  by  waters  driven  from  that  direction,  as  the 
two  currents  would  counteract  and  destroy  each  other. 

From  these  premises,  the  inference  of  the  writer  is, 
that  nothing  less  than  an  ocean  subsidiary  to  the  Atlan- 
tic could  supply  the  immense  quantity  of  water,  which 
is  continually  flowing  out  of  the  Gulf,  with  the  force  of 
an  independent  stream.  And  because  this  portion  of  the 
Atlantic  is  separated  from  the  Pacific  only  by  a  narrow 
Isthmus,  and  the  water  in  the  Pacific  is  known  to  be  con- 
stantly higher  than  that  in  the  Atlantic,  a  passage  under 
the  Isthmus  would  necessarily  create  a  powerful  current. 
This  passage  he  supposes  to  exist,  to  afford  the  supply 
necessary  to  keep  the  Gulf  Stream  perpetually  in  action. 
And,  as  the  regions  through  which  the  supposed  pas- 
sage is  formed,  are  known  to  be  volcanic,  the  supposi- 


174  TEMPERATURE  OP  THE  STREAM  AND  OCEAN. 

tion  accounts  for  the  high  temperature  of  the  water,  as 
well  as  for  the  force  of  the  current. 

With  regard  to  the  temperature  of  the  water  in  the 
stream,  it  is  stated,  that  its  average,  off  the  Capes  of 
Florida,  is  86°,  and  in  latitude  36,  it  is  81° ;  while  the 
mean  temperature  of  the  atmosphere,  under  the  equator, 
is  74°,  and  of  the  water  of  the  Atlantic,  in  the  same 
place,  not  above  60°.  It  appears,  then,  that  the  water 
of  the  Stream,  in  passing  out  of  the  Gulf  is  some  26° 
hotter  than  that  of  the  ocean,  which,  under  the  old 
theory,  is  supposed  to  suply  it. 

There  is  an  error,  either  of  the  author,  or  of  the 
printer,  in  these  figures.  The  temperature  of  the  Gulf 
Stream  is  correctly  given  ;  but  he  has  evidently  placed 
that  of  the  ocean  under  the  tropics,  too  low.  It  does 
not  materially  affect  his  argument,  however,  since  it 
is  undoubtedly  a  fact,  notwithstanding  the  assertions 
of  another  writer,  who  has  undertaken  to  reply  to  the 
article  in  question,  that  the  water  of  the  Gulf  Stream, 
after  it  leaves  the  tropics,  is  warmer  by  some  degrees, 
than  the  average  of  any  part  of  the  ocean  under  the 
tropics.  On  this  point,  the  argument  in  Hunt's  Maga- 
zine will  not,  I  imagine,  be  controverted. 

The  suggestion,  that  the  water  which  constitutes 
this  stream,  is  derived  from  the  Pacific,  forced  by  its 
superior  elevation  there,  through  a  subterranean  pas- 
sage, across  or  under  the  Isthmus,  is  certainly  origi- 
nal, and  ingenious.  But,  to  my  view,  it  is  liable  to  as 
many  objections,  as  the  old  one  which  it  is  intended  to 
displace.  It  is  indeed,  as  the  writer  says,  a  bold  con- 
jecture, having  nothing  to  support  it,  except  the  vol- 
ume  of  water  required  for  the  constant  supply  of  the 


OBJECTIONS  TO  THIS  THEORY.  175 

great  stream,  and  the  asphaltic  ebullition,  which  first 
suggested  the  theory,  and  gave  rise  to  the  discussion. 
Both  these  circumstances,  1  imagine,  can  be  disposed 
of  in  a  very  satisfactory  manner,  without  resorting  to 
the  supposition  of  this  mysterious  communication 
between  the  two  great  oceans. 

It  is,  in  my  view,  a  serious  objection  to  the  above- 
named  theory,  that  there  is  no  evidence  whatever,  on 
the  Pacific  coast,  of  any  such  submarine  discharge  of 
its  surplus  waters,  as  is  here  supposed.  The  natural, 
and  almost  inevitable  effect  of  such  an  offlet  would  be 
the  formation,  at  the  place  of  discharge,  of  a  mighty 
whirlpool,  another  Maelstrom,  whose  wide  sweeping 
eddies  would  gather  into  its  fearful  vortex,  and  swallow 
up  in  inevitable  destruction,  whatever  should  venture 
within  the  reach  of  its  influence.  Whether  such  a 
phenomenon  exists  on  that  coast,  I  do  not  know  ;  but  it 
certainly  is  not  described  in  any  geography,  nor  laid 
down  on  any  atlas,  which  has  ever  fallen  under  my 
notice. 

Another  objection,  almost,  if  not  quite  as  fatal  to 
this  "  bold  conjecture,"  is  the  fact,  that  upon  the  estab- 
lished and  well  known  principles  of  hydrostatic  pres- 
sure, a  discharge,  such  as  is  here  supposed,  could  not 
long  continue  without  reducing  the  two  oceans  to  the 
same  level.  The  immense  volume  of  the  discharge 
which  requires  such  a  conjecture  to  account  for  it, 
would  surely,  in  the  long  course  of  ages,  exhaust  the 
surplus  in  the  Pacific,  and  then  the  stream  would  cease 
to  flow.  So  that  the  fact  of  the  Pacific  still  maintain- 
ing its  elevation,  would  seem  to  be  conclusive  evi- 
dence that  no  such  equalizing  communication  exists. 


176  FURTHER  OBJECTIONS. 

It  may  be  further  argued  against  this  new  theory, 
and  it  seems  to  me  with  great  plausibility,  that  the 
appearance  of  the  "  chapote  "  on  the  surface  of  the 
inland  lakes,  demonstrates  the  inconclusiveness  of 
the  main  inference,  on  which  the  theory  is  based. 
Wherever  the  supposed  subterranean  passage  may  be, 
the  volcanic  fires,  which  are  supposed  to  heat  the  water, 
and  to  furnish  the  asphaltic  element,  must  necessarily 
lie  below  it ;  while  the  passage  itself  must,  with  equal 
certainty,  lie  below  the  bottom  of  the  lakes.  Now,  if 
the  asphaltic  ebullition  finds  its  way  up  through  the 
lakes,  would  it  not,  certainly,  and  from  necessity,  carry 
the  water  along  with  it  ?  And  should  we  not  expect 
to  find  a  jet  of  salt  water  in  the  midst  of  the  lake,  or 
such  an  infusion  of  salt  as  to  change  the  character  of 
the  lake  ? 

If  it  be  replied  to  this,  that  the  level  of  the  lake  is 
higher  than  that  of  the  sea,  another,  and  equally 
formidable  difficulty  will  result.  For,  as  water  must 
always  find  its  level,  through  the  same  opening  by 
which  the  asphaltum  rises,  the  water  of  the  lake  would 
inevitably  leak  out,  and  lose  itself  in  the  mighty 
current. 

While,  therefore,  I  am,  equally  with  the  writer  in  the 
Merchants'  Magazine,  dissatisfied  with  the  old  theory 
of  water  from  the  south,  forced  into  the  Gulf  by  the 
trade  winds,  and  compelled  to  find  a  northern  outlet — 
which,  from  the  nature  of  the  case,  the  formation  of 
the  land,  and  the  ordinary  phenomena  of  the  seas  where 
it  is  held  to  originate,  appears,  at  the  first  blush,  absurd 
and  impossible.  I  am  constrained  to  say  that  his 
"  bold  conjecture  "  deserves  no  better  name  than  he  has 


ANOTHER  THEORY.  177 

given  it.  My  own  view  of  the  case  is,  that  the  true 
cause  of  this  singular  phenomenon  must  be  sought  in 
the  bottom  of  the  Gulf  itself — in  a  perpetual  submarine 
volcano,  which,  like  a  gigantic  cauldron,  is  for  ever 
sending  up  to  the  surface  its  heated  currents,  mingled 
with  bituminous  ebullition  from  the  heart  of  the  earth. 
I  have  taken  some  pains  to  examine  the  water  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  these  asphaltic  bubbles,  and  have 
found  it  always  considerably  warmer  than  in  any  other 
part  of  the  Gulf.  It  did  not  occur  to  me  then,  to  com- 
pare it  with  the  known  temperature  of  the  stream,  after 
it  is  formed  into  a  current ;  but  I  have  no  doubt  that  it 
will  be  found  so  to  agree,  as  to  afford  substantial  con- 
firmation to  these  views. 

Neither  the  ebullition  here  spoken  of,  nor  the  idea  of 
submarine  volcanoes  in  the  Gulf,  is  intended  to  be 
presented  as  any  thing  new.  The  former  was  observed, 
and  commented  upon,  by  several  of  the  early  voyagers, 
who  followed  in  the  track  of  Columbus,  more  than 
three  hundred  years  ago.  It  was  then  attributed  to 
the  existence  of  volcanic  fires  beneath  the  bed  of  the 
ocean.  The  latter  is  an  opinion  long  since  put  forth, 
by  some  shrewd  observer,  I  know  not  whom,  in  whose 
mind  the  insuperable  objections  to  the  old  theory 
created  a  necessity  for  another  and  a  better.  Whether 
it  is  the  true  one,  it  is  perhaps  impossible  for  human 
sagacity  to  say.  But  that  it  is  far  more  plausible, 
and  more  consistent  with  all  the  known  facts  in  the 
case,  than  the  other,  I  think,  cannot  be  denied. 

The  insects  in  this  region  are  inconceivably  numer- 
ous and  annoying, — so  much  so,  that  I  was  actually 
compelled  to  relinquish  my  researches;  not  however, 


178 


A  CITY  IN  MOURNING. 


until  I  had  very  little  reason  to  anticipate  any  thing 
more  of  interest. 

Thus  defeated,  I  changed  my  course ;  and,  turning 
the  head  of  my  canoe  towards  home,  was  once  again  in 
Tampico,  but  apparently  not  in  the  same  city,  of  that 
name,  which  I  had  so  recently  left,  to  perform  my 
pilgrimage  to  the  cities  of  the  dead. 

The  place  was  enveloped  in  deep  mourning.  The 
shops  were  closed,  colors  were  hanging  mournfully  at 
half-mast,  and  the  officers  of  the  Mexican  army  were 
engaged  in  suspending  effigies  in  various  parts  of  the 
town,  on  which  the  zealous  population  might  vent  their 
pious  spite.  It  was  Good  Friday ;  and  the  effigies  thus 
exposed  to  the  brunt  of  a  well  meant,  but  harmless 
popular  indignation,  were  intended  as  representatives 
of  Judas  Iscariot. 


CHAPTER    III. 

GENERAL  VIEW  OF  MEXICO,  PAST  AND  PRESENT.   SKETCH  OF 
THE  CAREER  OF  SANTA  ANNA. 

Ancient  Mexico. — Its  extent. — Its  capital. — Its  government. — 
Its  sovereigns. — The  last  of  a  series  of  American  Monarchies. 
— Some  evidences  of  this. — Great  antiquity  of  some  of  the 
ruins. — Population  of  Mexico. — Its  government  as  a  colony. 
— The  Revolution.- — Its  leaders. — Iturbide. — Distracted  state 
of  the  country. — Santa  Anna. — His  public  career. — Pedraza. 
— Guerrero. — Barradas  at  Tampico. — Defeated  by  Santa 
Anna. — Bustamente. — Pedraza  again. — Santa  Anna  made 
President. — Revolt  of  Texas  and  Yucatan. — Battle  of  San 
Jacinto. — Santa  Anna  a  prisoner. — Released,  returns  in  dis- 
grace.— Out  again. — Loses  a  leg.—  Dictator. — President. — 
Put  down  by  Paredes. — -Banished. — Probable  result. — The 
Press. — Departure  for  home. 

Hanging  Judas  Iscariot  in  effigy,  eighteen  centuries 
after  he  had  hung  himself  in  despair  for  his  treachery, 
and  raising  a  monumental  tablet  to  Antonio  Lopez  de 
Santa  Anna,  seemed  to  me  to  be  somewhat  incongruous 
amusements.  But  these  Mexicans  will  have  their  way, 
however  strange  it  may  be.  Leaving  them  to  choose 
for  themselves,  in  these  matters,  I  propose,  before  taking 


180  ANCIENT  MEXICO. 

leave  of  Tampico,  to  give  a  brief  sketch  of  the  history 
and  present  condition  of  Mexico,  and  of  the  career  of 
the  singular  man,  who  has  acted  so  prominent  a  part 
in  the  revolutions  which  have  recently  convulsed  that 
unhappy  country. 

The  ancient  Mexico  was  comprised  within  much 
narrower  limits,  than  those  which  now  bound  the 
Republic.  Yet,  owing  to  the  remarkable  formation  of  the 
country,  beginning  with  its  low  plains,  and  tropical  val- 
leys along  the  sea  board,  and  gradually  ascending,  pla- 
teau above  plateau,  into  the  region  of  perpetual  winter, 
it  embraced  every  variety  of  climate,  and  yielded  almost 
every  production,  that  was  known  on  the  face  of  the 
earth. 

In  the  midst  of  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  luxu- 
riant plateaus,  situated  midway  between  the  Atlantic 
and  the  Pacific,  and  measuring  a  little  more  than  two 
hundred  miles  in  circumference,  with  lofty,  snow- 
crowned  walls  on  every  side,  stood  the  Q,ueen  City, 
Tenochtitlan,  now  called  Mexico,  the  metropolis  of  the 
Aztec  empire,  the  seat  of  civilization,  of  art,  of  luxury, 
of  refinement — "  the  Venice  of  the  Western  world." 
It  was  founded  in  the  early  part  of  the  fourteenth  cen- 
tury, and  soon  became  the  seat  of  a  flourishing  empire, 
and  the  central  point  of  power  to  a  triad  of  nations. 
Mexico,  Tezcuco,  and  Tlacopan,  bound  together  by  a 
league  of  perpetual  amity,  which  was  faithfully  main- 
tained and  preserved  through  a  long  period  of  unex- 
ampled warfare,  subdued  to  their  united  sway,  all  the 
neighboring  tribes  and  nations  of  Anahuac.  In  process 
of  time,  the  power  and  influence  of  Mexico  overtopped 
that  of  its  confederates,  and   Tezcuco  and  Tlacopan 


ITS  IMPERIAL  GOVERNMENT.  181 

became  little  better  than  tributaries  to  the  central  empire 
of  the  Montezumas. 

The  government  of  this  ancient  empire  was  an  abso- 
lute monarchy,  and  was  maintained  in  a  style  of  truly 
Oriental  pomp  and  magnificence.  Their  monarch  sup- 
ported his  state  with  all  the  proud  dignity,  and  stately 
ceremonial  of  the  most  refined  courts  of  the  old  world. 
His  attendants  were  princes,  who  waited  on  him  with 
the  most  obsequious  deference.  The  form  of  presenta- 
tion was  much  the  same  as  now  prevails  in  the  royal 
saloons  of  Europe,  the  subject  never  presuming  to  turn 
his  back  upon  the  throne,  but  carefully  stepping  back- 
ward to  the  door,  in  retiring  from  the  royal  presence. 
Whether  this  circumstance  is  sufficient  to  prove  that 
Europe  was  peopled  from  Mexico — an  opinion  gravely 
put  forth,  and  sturdily  maintained,  by  at  least  one  old 
writer — I  shall  not  now  stop  to  inquire. 

The  body-guard  of  the  sovereign  was  composed  of 
the  chief  nobles  of  the  realm,  who,  like  the  great  feudal 
lords  of  Europe,  held  sway  over  extensive  estates  of 
their  own,  and  could  call  into  the  field,  at  any  moment, 
an  immense  army  of  subject  retainers.  The  royal 
palaces  were  extensive  and  magnificent,  and  comprised 
apartments,  not  only  for  the  private  accommodation  of 
the  royal  household,  but  for  all  the  great  purposes 
of  the  state — halls  of  council,  treasuries  for  the  public 
revenue,  etc.  etc.  Mexico  was  indeed  a  city  of  palaces, 
interspersed  with  temples  and  pyramids,  rivalling  in 
splendor  and  luxury,  as  well  as  in  extent,  many  of  the 
proudest  capitals  of  the  Old  World. 

This  splendid  monarchy,  which  was  probably  at  the 
very  acme  of  its  glory,  when  discovered  and  overturned 

16 


* 


182  ITS  ANCIENT  GLORY. 

by  the  remorseless  invaders  from  Spain,  was  the  last  of 
a  series  of  powerful  and  highly  refined  dynasties,  that 
had  successively  flourished  and  passed  away,  in  the 
beautiful  regions  of  Central  America.  Two  mighty 
oceans  on  the  east  and  west, .  two  mighty  continents  on 
the  north  and  south,  and  embracing,  in  the  singular 
arrangement  of  its  slopes  and  levels,  all  the  climates 
and  productions  of  both  and  of  all,  it  seems  to  have  been, 
for  ages,  we  know  not  how  far  back,  the  theatre  of  all 
the  art,  the  seat  of  all  the  power,  the  centre  of  all  the 
refinement  and  luxury,  of  the  western  hemisphere. 
There  are  some  remarkable  works  of  art,  and  wonder- 
ful traces  of  ancient  civilization  in  South  America,  as 
well  as  some  singular  remains  of  a  once  numerous  and 
powerful  people  in  the  north.  But  the  Isthmus  was 
the  Decapolis  of  Ancient  America.  "  The  tabernacles 
of  its  palaces  were  planted  between  the  seas,  in  the  glo- 
rious mountain."  Here  was  its  Babylon,  its  Nineveh, 
its  Thebes,  its  Palmyra.  And  here,  splendid  in  ruins, 
with  no  voice  to  tell  of  their  ancient  founders,  or  of  the 
millions  who  once  thronged  their  busy  streets,  they  still 
remain,  an  instructive  but  painful  lesson  on  the  insta- 
bility of  human  affairs,  the  brevity  of  a  terrestrial 
immortality. 

I  have  said  that  Mexico  was  the  last  of  a  series  of 
splendid  monarchies  that  had  flourished,  and  passed 
away,  in  Central  America.  The  evidences  of  the  truth 
of  this  statement  are  too  numerous,  and  too  clear,  to 
admit  of  a  doubt.  The  ruins  of  extensive  and  magni- 
ficent cities,  which  abound  on  every  side,  like  the 
sepulchres  and  monuments  of  the  departed,  are  the 
melancholy  memorials,  which  cannot  be  gainsayed,  of 


EXTENT  AND  ANTIQUITY  OP  ITS  RUINS.  183 

the  gigantic  power  and  fruitful  resources  of  the  Past. 
Palenque,  Copan,  and  many  more  in  the  south — 
Uxmal,  Chi-chen,  Ticul,  Kabah,  Mayapan,  etc.,  in  the 
central  regions  of  Yucatan — Panuco,  Cerro  Chacuaco, 
and  others  without  a  name,  in  the  north — these  are  but 
a  part  of  the  remains  of  ancient  grandeur  that  lie  buried 
under  the  soil,  and  hidden  in  the  almost  impervious 
forests  of  this  luxuriant  clime.  Their  name  is  legion. 
Some  of  them  were  deserted  and  in  ruins  at  the  period 
of  the  Spanish  Conquest,  and  are  occasionally  spoken  of 
by  the  historians  of  that  day  with  wonder  and  amaze- 
ment. Some  were  evidently  occupied  by  other  races 
than  the  builders,  inferior  in  taste  and  refinement,  if  not 
in  physical  power ;  and  some,  though  not  then  in  utter 
ruins,  were,  as  at  the  present  day,  waste  and  without 
inhabitant, — 

Desolate,  like  the  dwellings  of  Moina, — 
The  fox  looked  out  of  the  window, 
The  rank  grass  waved  round  its  head. 

In  the  remains  of  these  ruined  cities,  there  are  not 
only  the  evidences  derived  from  their  different  degrees 
of  dilapidation  and  decay,  to  prove  that  they  originated 
in  different  and  far  distant  ages,  but  others  which  show 
them  to  be  the  works  of  distinct  races  of  people.  The 
plan  and  architecture  of  the  buildings,  the  style  and 
finish  of  the  ornamental  parts,  the  forms  and  features 
of  the  sculptured  heads,  differ  as  widely  as  those  of 
Egypt  and  Greece,  and  as  clearly  prove  the  workman- 
ship of  different  periods,  and  different  artists.  Some 
writers  have  undertaken  to  trace  in  these  ruins,  evi- 
dences of  three  distinct  aares  of  American  civilization. 


184  PRESENT  CONDITION  OF  MEXICO. 

Without  entering  into  an  argument  on  the  subject,  I 
would  simply  remark,  that,  whether  three,  or  five,  or 
more,  no  conclusion  seems  to  my  mind  capable  of  a 
more  perfect  substantiation,  than  this,  that  these  ruins 
extend  far  back  into  the  remotest  ages  of  antiquity,  and 
form  a  continuous  chain  of  connection  between  the 
earliest  settlers  in  America,  and  the  Toltecs  and  Aztecs, 
of  whom  we  have  something  like  authentic  history.  I 
go  farther,  and  say  that  this  chain  is  probably  complete 
in  its  parts,  though  the  links  are  separated,  and  cannot 
now  be  brought  together  again.  They  are  all  there, 
but  so  scattered  and  confounded  together,  that  he  who 
attempts  to  assign  them  a  place  and  a  date,  or  to  build  a 
theory  upon  their  apparent  relations  to  each  other,  will 
probably  soon  find  himself  "  in  wandering  mazes  lost," 
and  rather  amuse,  than  convince  or  instruct  his 
readers. 

These  statements  are,  for  the  most  part,  drawn  from 
the  most  reliable  sources,  and  confirmed,  as  far  as  I 
have  had  opportunity,  by  my  own  observation.  I  shall 
take  the  liberty  to  regard  them  as  facts.  Intending  to 
refer  to  them  in  the  concluding  chapter,  and  to  draw 
from  them  some  inferences  in  support  of  the  opinions  I 
have  formed  respecting  the  origin  of  the  ancient  Amer- 
ican races,  and  the  probable  epoch  of  the  ruins  I  have 
had  the  pleasure  to  explore,  I  shall  make  no  further 
comment  upon  them  here ;  but  proceed  to  a  brief 
epitome  of  the  present  condition  of  the  empire  of  the 
Montezumas. 

The  population  of  Mexico  is  as  mixed  and  various 
as  that  of  any  other  portion  of  the  globe.  It  includes, 
at  least,  seven  distinct  races.     First,  the  Europeans,  or 


POPULATION  AND  GOVERNMENT.  185 

foreign  residents,  called  Chapetones,  or  Gapuchins. 
Secondly,  Creoles,  or  native  whites  of  European  extrac- 
tion. Thirdly,  the  Mestizoes,  the  offspring  of  whites 
and  Indians.  Fourthly,  Mulattoes,  the  offspring  of 
whites  and  blacks.  Fifthly,  the  Aboriginal  Indians. 
Sixthly,  Negroes.  Seventhly,  Zamboes,  or  Chinoes, 
the  offspring  of  negroes  and  Indians.  There  is  also  a 
sprinkling  of  Chinese  and  Malays^  and  natives  of  the 
Canaries,  who  rank  as  whites,  and  are  known  by  the 
general  name  of  Islenos,  or  Islanders. 

While  Mexico  remained  a  colony  of  Spain,  from  the 
conquest  in  1519,  till  the  Revolution  in  1810,  all  the 
power  and  influence,  and  nearly  all  the  wealth,  was 
confined  to  the  first  class.  The  revolution  transferred 
it  to  the  second,  and  expatriated  the  first.  And  this 
was  almost  its  only  result ;  for  it  does  not  seem  to 
have  been  attended  with  any  of  the  ordinary  bless- 
ings of  freedom  to  the  common  people,  either  in 
lightening  their  burdens,  or  elevating  their  moral  con- 
dition. 

The  government  of  the  colony  was  that  of  a  Viceroy, 
the  proud  servant  of  a  proud  master  in  Spain,  and 
amenable  only  to  him  for  his  acts.  The  people  had  no 
voice  either  of  council  or  remonstrance.  It  was  pas- 
sive submission  to  absolute  power.  Whether  that 
power  became  more  severe  and  oppressive,  in  the  early 
part  of  the  present  century,  than  it  had  been,  or  whether 
the  increased  numbers,  wealth  and  ambition  of  the 
Creoles  induced  a  desire  to  take  the  power  into  their 
own  hands,  or  whether  it  was  the  mere  contagion  of 
rebellion  and  independence,  diffusing  itself  over  a  con- 
tinent reserved  as  "  the  area  of  Freedom,"  and  separated 


186  THE  REVOLUTION ITURBIDE. 

by  wide  oceans  from  the  despotisms  o£  the  Old  World, 
it  is  not  easy  now  to  decide.  The  struggle  was  long 
and  severe.  Monarchy  held  on  to  the  golden  moun- 
tains of  Mexico  with  a  desperate  though  feeble  grasp. 
Independence  was  declared,  by  the  congress  of  Mexico, 
in  1813,  but  it  was  not  finally  and  fully  achieved  until 
1829,  when  the  Spanish  residents  were  expelled  from 
the  country. 

The  contest  for  independence,  as  is  usually  the  case, 
brought  out  the  patriotism,  talent  and  genius  of  the 
native  population.  Several  of  the  leaders  distinguished 
themselves  in  the  eyes  of  the  world.  Among  the  most 
prominent  were  Guerrero,  Hidalgo,  Moreles  and  Vic- 
toria. 

In  1820,  the  Viceroy,  who  was  still  struggling  to  sup- 
port the  tottering  throne,  commissioned  General  Itur- 
bide,  who  had  been  successful  in  several  engagements 
with  the  Creoles,  to  reduce  them  to  submission.  Itur- 
bide  was  born  to  be  a  traitor.  No  sooner  was  the  army 
placed  at  his  control,  than  he  betrayed  his  trust,  joined 
the  cause  of  the  revolutionists,  and  proclaimed  Mexico 
independent.  This  was  in  1821.  A  congress  assem- 
bled in  1822,  to  form  a  constitution.  But  Iturbide, 
traitor  to  the  cause  he  had  just  adopted,  caused  himself 
to  be  proclaimed  Emperor,  under  the  title  of  Augustin 
the  First.  Opposed  by  a  powerful  and  resolute  party, 
rendered  desperate  by  their  success  hitherto,  this  self- 
constituted  Emperor  was  compelled  to  abdicate  in  the 
course  of  a  year,  and  retire  to  Europe,  the  proper  thea- 
tre for  legitimate  tyrants.  Returning  to  Mexico  in  1824, 
with  a  view,  as  was  supposed,  to  avail  himself  of  the 
distractions  of  the  country,  to  assert  anew  his  claims  to 


INTERNAL  COMMOTIONS.  187 

the  imperial  dignity,  he  was  seized  and  shot,  as  soon  as 
he  had  landed. 

From  the  first  outbreak  of  the  Revolution  to  the 
present  time,  Mexico  has  been  torn  and  distracted  with 
internal  wars.  The  long  struggle  for  Independence, 
was  succeeded,  as  soon  as  that  end  was  achieved,  by 
other  and  more  bitter  struggles  for  personal  or  party 
ascendency.  A  constitution  was  adopted  in  1823. 
The  government  established  by  it,  is  a  confederated 
Republic,  modelled  in  most  respects,  after  that  of  the 
United  States — a  government  exactly  suited  to  make  an 
intelligent  and  virtuous  people  happy,  but  not  adapted 
to  a  community  composed  of  restless,  unprincipled, 
ambitious  factionists,  on  the  one  hand,  and  an  ignorant, 
bigoted  rabble,  on  the  other.  Faction  after  faction  has 
arisen,  plan  after  plan  has  been  proposed,  adopted,  and 
instantly  discarded  for  another,  till  it  has  become  as 
difficult  to  say  what  is,  or  has  been  at  any  particular 
period,  the  actual  government  of  Mexico,  as  to  predict 
what  it  will  be  to-morrow.  If  the  intelligence  of  the 
people  had  been  such  as  to  justify  the  comparison,— if 
there  had  been  more  real  patriotism,  more  sincere  love 
of  liberty  among  the  principal  actors  in  these  bloody 
dramas,  one  might  say,  that  the  Florentine  Histories  of 
the  middle  ages  had  been  re-enacted  in  Mexico.  How 
different  the  struggle,  both  in  its  manner  and  in  its 
results,  in  our  own  blessed  land.  But  let  us  not  triumph 
over  our  less  favored  and  weaker  neighbors.  Let  us 
rather  devoutly  thank  heaven  that  our  fathers  loved 
liberty  more  than  power,  and  laid  broad  and  deep  the 
foundations  of  intelligence,  virtue  and  religion, — not 
superstition,  and  a  bigoted  devotion  to  forms,  or  a  blind 


188 


SANTA  ANNA. 


submission  to  ecclesiastical  authority,  but  the  religion 
which  recognizes  God  as  supreme,  and  all  men  as 
equal, — on  which  to  raise  the  glorious  superstructure 
of  rational  freedom.  Let  us  see  to  it,  that,  while  we 
enlarge  the  superstructure,  we  do  not  neglect  the  foun- 
dations. 

It  was  during  the  temporary  ascendency  of  Iturbide, 
that  Antonio  Lopez  de  Santa  Anna,  now  more  notorious 
than  illustrious,  became  a  conspicuous  actor  on  this 
turbulent  stage.  He  was  a  native  of  the  department  of 
Vera  Cruz.  Here,  without  enjoying  any  adventitious 
advantages  of  birth  or  family,  he  succeeded,  by  his  tal- 
ents and  industry,  in  securing  great  local  influence,  and 
gradually  rose  to  wealth  and  power.  Except  Bolivar, 
there  is,  perhaps,  no  one  among  the  many  distinguished 
agitators  of  Spanish  America,  whose  career  has  been 
signalized  by  so  many  extraordinary  vicissitudes  of 
good  and  evil  fortune,  or  who  has  filled  so  large  a  space 
in  the  eye  of  the  world,  as  Santa  Anna. 

On  the  promulgation  by  Iturbide  of  the  plan  of 
Iguala,  (February  24,  1821,)  Santa  Anna,  at  the  head 
of  the  irregular  forces  of  the  neighborhood,  succeeded 
by  a  coup  de  main,  in  driving  the  Spaniards  out  of 
Vera  Cruz,  of  which  he  was  immediately  appointed 
governor.  The  Spaniards,  however,  still  held  the  cas- 
tle of  San  Juan  de  Ulloa,  from  which  they  were  not  for 
a  long  time  dislodged ;  and,  of  course,  Santa  Anna's 
position  was  one  of  great  importance. 

Meanwhile,  differences  arose  between  Santa  Anna 
and  the  Emperor  Augustin,  who  had  come  down  to 
Jalapa  to  direct  the  operations  against  the  Spaniards. 
Santa  Anna  repaired  to  Jalapa  to  confer  with  Iturbide  ; 


VICTORIA — SANTA  ANNA  RETIRES PEDRAZA.    189 

and,  being  treated  harshly,  and  deprived  of  his  com- 
mand, immediately  left  Jalapa,  hurried  back  to  Vera 
Cruz,  in  anticipation  of  the  intelligence  of  his  disgrace, 
raised  the  standard  of  revolt,  and,  by  means  of  his  per- 
sonal authority  with  the  troops  of  the  garrison,  com- 
menced hostilities  with  the  Emperor.  Thereupon 
Guadalupe  Victoria,  whose  name  was  endeared  to  the 
Mexicans  by  his  previous  unsuccessful  efforts  in  the 
revolution,  and  who  was  living  concealed  in  the  moun- 
tains, emerged  from  his  hiding  place,  called  around  him 
his  old  republican  companions  in  arms,  expelled  Itur- 
bide,  and  established  the  Mexican  republic  with  a  fed- 
eral constitution,  in  imitation  of  that  of  the  United 
States. 

Santa  Anna,  who,  by  first  taking  up  arms,  had  con- 
tributed so  largely  to  this  result,  thinking  himself  not 
duly  considered  in  the  new  arrangements,  sailed  from 
Vera  Cruz  with  a  small  force  March  1823,  and  landing 
at  Tampico,  advanced  through  the  country  to  San  Luis 
Potosi,  assuming  to  be  protector  of  the  new  republic. 
But  not  possessing  influence  enough  to  maintain  him- 
self in  this  attitude,  he  was  compelled  to  submit  to  the 
government,  and  to  remain  for  several  years  in  retire- 
ment at  Manga  de  Clavo. 

The  termination  of  Victoria's  presidency,  however, 
in  1828,  enabled  Santa  Anna  to  re-appear  on  the  stage. 
Pedraza  had  been  regularly  elected  President ;  on  hear- 
ing of  which,  Santa  Anna  rose  in  arms,  and  by  a  rapid 
march,  seized  upon  and  intrenched  himself  in  the  castle 
of  Perote.  Here  he  published  a  plan,  the  basis  of 
which  was  to  annul  the  election  of  Pedraza,  and  confer 
the  presidency  on  Guerrero.     But,  being  successfully 


190  BARRADAS — BUSTAMENTE. 

attacked  here  by  the  government  forces,  he  was  com- 
pelled to  flee,  and  took  refuge  in  the  mountains  of 
Oajaca,  to  all  appearance  an  outlaw  and  a  ruined  man. 
The  signal  of  revolution,  however,  which  he  had  given 
at  Perote,  was  followed  up  with  more  success  in  other 
parts  of  the  country.  , 

Pedraza  was  at  length  driven  into  exile,  Guerrero 
was  declared  President  in  his  place,  and  Santa  Anna 
was  appointed  to  the  command  of  the  very  army  sent 
against  him,  and  to  the  government  of  Yera  Cruz,  and 
after  the  inauguration  of  Guerrero,  April  1829,  he  be- 
came Secretary  of  War. 

While  these  events  were  in  progress,  the  Spanish 
government  was  organizing  its  last  invasion  of  Mexico. 
Barradas,  the  commander  of  the  Spanish  forces,  landing 
at  Tampico,  July  27,  1829.  Santa  Anna  was  entrusted 
with  the  command  of  the  Mexican  troops,  and  at 
length  compelled  the  Spaniards  to  capitulate,  Sep- 
tember 11,  1829,  which  put  an  end  to  the  war  of  inde- 
pendence. 

Guerrero  had  been  in  ofTice  but  a  few  months,  when 
another  revolution  broke  out.  The  Vice-President, 
Bustamente,  gathered  a  force  at  Jalapa,  and  pronounced 
against  Guerrero,  December  1829,  who  was  at  length 
taken  prisoner,  and  executed  for  treason ;  Bustamente 
assuming  the  presidency. 

Santa  Anna,  after  feebly  resisting,  had  at  length 
joined,  or  at  least  acquiesced  in,  the  movement  of  Busta- 
mente ;  and  remained  in  retirement  for  two  or  three 
years,  until,  in  1832,  he  on  a  sudden  pronounced  against 
the  government,  compelled  Bustamente  to  flee,  and 
brought  back   Pedraza  from  exile,   to   serve  out  the 


SANTA  ANNA  PRESIDENT — SAN  JACINTO.  191 

remaining  three  months  of  the  term  for  which  he  had 
been  elected  to  the  presidency. 

In  the  progress  of  events,  Santa  Anna  had  now 
acquired  sufficient  importance  to  desist  from  the  func- 
tion of  President  maker,  and  to  become  himself  Presi- 
dent. This  took  place  in  May,  1833.  His  presidency 
was  filled  with  pronunciamentos  and  civil  wars,  which 
produced  the  consummation  of  the  overthrow  of  the 
federal  constitution  of  1824,  and  the  adoption,  in  1836, 
of  a  central  constitution. 

Though  most  of  the  Mexican  States  acquiesced  in 
the  violent  changes,  by  which  they  were  reduced  to 
mere  departments,  under  the  control  of  military  com- 
mandants, Texas  on  the  northeast,  and  Yucatan  on  the 
southeast,  refused  to  submit  to  the  military  dominion 
of  whatever  faction  of  the  army  might  happen  to  hold 
power  in  the  city  of  Mexico  :  and  Santa  Anna  at  length 
took  command  in  person  of  the  army  organized  for  the 
reduction  of  Texas.  The  battle  of  San  Jacinto,  the  cap- 
ture of  Santa  Anna,  his  release  by  Houston  on  condi- 
tions, which  he  afterwards  refused  to  fulfil,  his  visit  to 
this  country,  and  his  subsequent  return  to  Mexico,  are 
events  familiarly  known  in  the  United  States. 

When  Santa  Anna  marched  on  Texas,  first  Barra- 
gan,  and  then  Coro,  exercised  the  functions  of  the 
presidency  for  a  while,  until,  under  the  new  constitu- 
tion, Bustamente,  having  returned  from  exile,  was 
elected  President ;  the  temporary  unpopularity  of  Santa 
Anna,  and  his  retirement  in  disgrace  to  Manga  de 
Clavo,  having  left  the  field  open  to  the  friends  of  Bus- 
tamente. 

Sundry  pronunciamentos  followed ;  of  which,  one  of 


192        SANTA  ANNA  DICTATOR  AND  PRESIDENT. 

the  most  dangerous,  headed  by  Mejia,  gave  to  Santa 
Anna  the  opportunity  of  emerging  from  his  retirement. 
He  vanquished  Mejia,  and  caused  him  to  he  shot  on 
the  field  of  battle.  This  exploit  gave  to  Santa  Anna  a 
new  start  in  public  affairs ;  so  that  when  the  French 
Government,  in  1838,  resolved  to  punish  Mexico  for  its 
multiplied  aggressions  on  the  subjects  of  France  in 
Mexico,  and  proceeded  to  attack  Vera  Cruz,  the  com- 
mand of  the  Mexican  troops  were  committed  to  Santa 
Anna.  On  this  occasion  he  received  a  wound,  which 
rendered  the  amputation  of  one  of  his  legs  necessary ; 
and  his  services,  at  this  time,  seemed  to  have  effaced, 
in  the  eyes  of  the  Mexicans,  the  disgrace  of  his  defeat 
at  San  Jacinto. 

Santa  Anna  took  no  part  in  the  unsuccessful  move- 
ment of  Urrea.  against  Bustamente,  in  1840 ;  but  in  1841, 
there  broke  out  a  revolution,  commenced  by  Paredes, 
at  Guadalajara,  into  which  Santa  Anna  threw  himself 
with  so  much  vigor  and  zeal,  that  Bustamente  was 
again  compelled  to  flee,  and  the  plan  of  Tacubaya, 
with  the  agreement  of  La  Estanzuela,  was  adopted  ; 
in  virtue  of  which,  the  constitution  of  1836  was  abol- 
ished, and  Santa  Anna  himself  was  invested  with  the 
powers  of  dictator,  for  the  purpose  of  re-constituting 
the  republic. 

Under  these  auspices,  and  amid  all  the  calamities 
of  a  protracted  but  unsuccessful  attempt  to  reduce 
Yucatan  to  submission,  (for  Yucatan  at  length  made 
its  own  terms,)  a  new  constitution  was  adopted,  June 
13,  1843,  entitled,  "  Basis  of  Political  organization  of 
the  Mexican  Republic,"  and  Santa  Anna  was  elected 
President. 


PAREDES HERRERA SANTA  ANNA  BANISHED.   193 

Santa  Anna  resigned  his  dictatorship,  and  entered 
upon  office  as  the  new  President,  in  January,  ]  844 ; 
but  before  the  expiration  of  the  year,  Paredes  again 
pronounced  at  Guadalajara,  and  this  time  against 
Santa  Anna.  The  chief  ostensible  causes  of  this 
movement,  were  various  administrative  abuses  com- 
mitted by  Santa  Anna  and  his  ministers,  and  especially 
an  abortive  attempt  of  his  administration  to  raise 
money  for  an  expedition  against  Texas.  When  the 
revolution  broke  out,  Santa  Anna  was  at  Magna  de 
Clavo,  the  presidency  being  provisionally  held,  during 
his  absence  from  the  capital,  by  Canalizo.  Instantly, 
on  hearing  the  tidings  of  the  movement  at  Guadala- 
jara, Santa  Anna,  in  open  violation  of  one  of  the  arti- 
cles of  the  new  organic  basis,  was  placed  in  command 
of  the  army,  and  rapidly  traversed  the  republic,  from 
Jalapa  to  Queretara,  with  all  the  forces  he  could  raise, 
to  encounter  Paredes.  But  the  departments  which  he 
had  left  behind  him  speedily  revolted,  not  excepting  even 
Vera  Cruz ;  and  though  his  faction  in  the  capital, 
including  Canalizo  and  the  ministers,  endeavored  to 
sustain  him  by  proclaiming  him  dictator,  their  efforts 
were  vain.  He  was  compelled  to  retrograde,  and  at 
length  was  routed,  and  obliged  to  surrender  himself  a 
captive  to  the  new  administration,  headed  by  Herrera, 
which  has  released  him  with  the  penalty  of  ten  years' 
exile. 

Defeated,  banished,  and  in  disgrace  with  the  world, 
it  is  still  difficult  to  determine  what  will  be  the  ulti- 
mate fate  of  this  hero  of  half  a  score  of  revolutions. 
He  is  now,  or,  more  properly  speaking,  he  was  when 
last  heard  from,  living  in  luxurious  retirement,  on  one 
17 


194  MEXICAN  LITERATURE VEYTIA— CLAVIGERO. 

of  the  most  splendid  estates  in  Cuba,  a  few  miles  from 
Havana.  With  immense  wealth  at  his  command, 
ambitious  as  ever  of  power,  he  is  but  waiting  a  favor- 
able opportunity  to  thrust  himself  again  into  the 
quarrels  of  his  ill-fated  country.  Money  will  accom- 
plish any  thing  there,  good  or  evil.  And  if,  through 
any  of  his  emissaries,  he  can  once  more  gain  access 
to  the  army,  one  year's  income  from  his  rich  estates 
will  buy  them  over  to  a  new  revolution,  and  the  exiled 
dictator  will  once  more  place  his  wooden  foot  upon 
the  necks  of  his  conquerors,  and  of  the  people.  This 
may  be  his  position  before  the  expiration  of  the 
present  year.  It  may  be,  before  the  ink  is  dry  which 
records  the  peradventure.  It  may  be,  at  this  very  mo- 
ment.    "  Nous  verrons  ce  que  nous  verrons." 

Of  literature,  properly  speaking,  there  is  none  in 
Mexico.  There  are  a  few  scholars  and  learned 
men,  in  the  church  and  at  the  bar.  But  their  pres- 
ence is  not  felt,  their  weight  is  not  realized,  in  any 
estimate  we  attempt  to  make  of  the  national  character. 

Veytia,  a  native  of  Puebla,  who  nourished  about  the 
middle  of  the  last  century,  has  done  much  to  illustrate 
the  early  history  of  the  nations  of  Anahuac ;  tracing 
out,  with  great  patience  and  fidelity,  the  various  migra- 
tions of  its  principal  races,  and  thro  wing  much  light  on 
their  history  and  works.  He  was  an  industrious  able 
critic,  and  though  but  little  known,  deserves  the  highest 
credit  for  his  valuable  contributions  to  ancient  American 
literature. 

Clavigero,  a  native  of  Vera  Cruz,  a  voluminous  and 
elaborate  writer  on  the  same  subject,  whose  works  are 
well  known  and  highly  approved,  has  rectified  many  of 


GAMA — THE  PRESS.  195 

the  inaccuracies  of  foreign  writers,  and  done  much  to 
concentrate  the  scattered  rays  of  native  tradition,  and 
give  form  and  substance  to  previous  antiquarian  re- 
searches. 

Antonio  Gama,  a  native  of  Mexico,  and  a  lawyer, 
was  a  ripe  scholar,  distinguished  for  patient  investiga- 
tion, severe  accuracy,  and  an  impartial  desire  to  arrive 
at  the  truth,  without  reference  to  a  preconceived  opinion 
or  theory.  He  was  a  thorough  master  of  some  of  the 
native  languages,  and,  to  an  extent  as  great  as  the 
nature  of  the  case  admitted,  of  the  native  traditions  and 
hieroglyphics.  These,  together  with  their  systems  of 
arithmetic,  astronomy  and  chronology,  he  has  illus- 
trated with  uncommon  acuteness  and  ability.  His 
works  are  but  little  known,  but  of  great  value  to  those 
who  would  follow  a  safe  guide  amid  the  labyrinths  of 
antiquarian  lore. 

Other  worthy  names  might  be  added  to  these.  But 
let  these  suffice  to  show  that  there  is  nothing  in  the 
climate  unfavorable  to  letters.  It  is  a  rich,  a  glorious 
field ;  but,  trampled  by  tyranny,  or  convulsed  with  rev- 
olutions and  civil  wars,  there  has  scarcely  been  a  mo- 
ment, during  the  present  century,  when  the  scholar, 
however  much  disposed  to  retirement,  could  close  the 
door  of  his  study,  and  feel  himself  secure  from  inter- 
ruption. It  is  hardly  fair,  therefore,  to  measure  the 
literary  capacity  of  Mexico,  by  its  present  fruits,  or  to 
judge  of  her  scholars  by  the  issues  of  the  Press  in  such 
turbulent  times. 

There  are  but  few  newspapers  in  the  country,  and 
these  are  not  conducted  with  the  most  consummate 
ability.     The  bombastic,  bragadocio  style,  with  which 


196  READY  TO  DEPART. 

they  are  often  inflated,  if  it  be  not  intended  for  carrica- 
ture,  might  almost  vie  with  Baron  Munchausen's  hap- 
piest specimens  of  that  kind  of  composition.  The  com- 
ments of  the  government  organ,  published  at  the  capi- 
tal, are  often  extremely  bitter  upon  every  thing  which 
relates  to  the  United  States.  In  some  remarks  respect- 
ing the  monument  commemorating  the  battle  of  Bunker 
Hill,  the  editor  observes, — "  The  people  of  Boston  make 
much  ado  about  its  completion  " — and  then  adds, — "  if 
Mexico  should  raise  monuments  for  all  such  trivial 
occurrences  in  her  history,  the  whole  country  would  be 
filled  with  them."  A  little  farther  on,  speaking  of  the 
Peninsular  War,  he  says, — "  they  may  do — but  Wel- 
lington never  yet  knew  what  it  was  to  face  a  breast- 
work of  Mexican  bayonets."  ! ! !  Alas  !  for  Wellington, 
and  the  glory  of  British  arms  !  What  was  Waterloo 
to  San  Jacinto ! 

On  preparing  to  leave  Tampico,  I  experienced  con- 
siderable difficulty,  and  no  small  expense  in  procuring 
the  necessary  passports.  Stamps,  for  permits  of  bag- 
gage, were  required.  My  baggage  had  to  undergo  a 
very  annoying  examination,  with  a  view  to  the  discov- 
ery of  specie  that  might  be  concealed  therewith,  which 
pays  an  export  duty  of  six  per  cent.  To  such  a  pro- 
voking extent  is  this  examination  carried,  that  the  inso- 
lent officers  thrust  their  hands,  like  Arabs,  into  the  bot- 
toms of  your  pockets,  in  pursuit  of  your  small  loose 
change. 

I  took  passage  in  the  Mexican  schooner  Belle  Isabel, 
for  New  Orleans,  in  company  with  twenty  other  pas- 
sengers. We  embarked  in  the  river,  and,  though 
hoping  for  a  short  passage,  it  was  with  sensations  of 


DETAINED — KINDNESS  OF  THE  AM.  CONSUL.     197 

discomfort,  amounting  almost  to  consternation,  that  I 
ascertained,  after  every  thing  was  on  board,  that  water 
and  provisions  had  been  laid  in,  sufficient  only  for  a 
passage  of  forty-eight  hours.  After  protesting  to  the 
American  Consul,  and  lodging  my  complaint  with  the 
Captain  of  the  port,  against  the  villainous  purpose  of 
the  master  and  consignee  of  the  vessel,  to  put  us  upon 
allowance,  and  experiencing  much  delay,  some  further 
supplies  were  sent  on  board.  We  remained  in  the 
river  some  time,  being  unable  to  pass  the  bar,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  shallowness  of  the  water  in  the  channel. 
The  annoyances  experienced  from  the  vermin,  with 
which  the  vessel  abounded,  and  the  motley  character 
of  the  passengers,  made  up  of  negroes,  mulattoes,  and 
Mexicans,  rendered  my  position  quite  intolerable  ;  and 
even  sickness,  which  filled  up  the  measure  of  my  trou- 
bles, was  a  not  unwelcome  excuse  for  parting  with  such 
disagreeable  associates. 

This  affords  me  a  favorable  opportunity,  and  I 
embrace  it  with  heartfelt  pleasure,  of  paying,  in  part,  a 
debt  of  gratitude  to  Captain  Chase,  the  American  Con- 
sul at  Tampico,  and  his  accomplished  and  kind-hearted 
lady,  who,  during  a  severe  and  protracted  illness, 
attended  me  with  a  kindness  that  will  not  soon  be  for- 
gotten. The  tender  and  patient  attentions,  which  they 
bestowed  upon  a  sick  countryman,  in  a  strange  land, 
were  such  as  might  have  been  expected  from  a  brother 
and  sister,  and  were  rendered  doubly  valuable  to  the 
recipient,  by  the  full  hearted  cheerfulness  and  benevo- 
lence which  characterized  them.  God  bless  them  both ! 
May  they  never  want  a  friend  and  comforter  in  any  of 
the  trials  that  may  fall  to  their  lot. 


198  AT  HOME. 

More  fortunate  in  my  next  attempt  to  leave  Tampico, 
I  secured  a  passage  in  the  Pilot  Boat  Virginia,  and, 
after  a  short  and  agreeable  voyage,  arrived  at  the  Cres- 
cent City  on  the  8th  of  June,  satisfied,  for  the  present, 
with  my  adventures,  and  glad  to  greet  the  kind  faces 
of  familiar  friends,  and  share  the  comforts  which  can 
only  be  found  at  home. 

At  home  !  yes,  here  I  am  once  more,  in  my  own 
quiet  home,  having  performed  three  voyages  by  sea, 
embracing  a  distance  of  some  two  thousand  miles, 
besides  sundry  rambles  and  pilgrimages  in  the  interior, 
and  all  this,  with  only  two  "  hair- breadth  'scapes  by 
field  or  flood" — scarcely  enough,  I  fear,  to  spice  my 
narrative  to  the  taste  of  the  age. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

THE  TWO  AMERICAN  RIDDLES. 

Humboldt's  caution. — Antiquities  of  the  Old  "World  long  involved 
in  mystery,  now  explained.  Ancient  ruins  never  fully  realized 
by  description. — The  two  extremes  of  theorists. — A  medium. 
— My  own  conclusion. — Reasons  for  it. — 1.  Absence  of  Tra- 
dition.— Necessity  and  importance  of  tradition. — Most  likely 
to  be  found  among  the  Aztecs. — An  attempt  to  account  for 
its  absence. — Answered. — The  Toltecs  and  their  works. — A 
choice  of  conclusions. — 2.  Character  and  condition  of  ruins. 
— Widely  different  from  each  other. — The  works  of  different 
and  distant  ages. — Probable  origin  of  the  people. — One  uni- 
versal tradition,  its  relevancy  to  the  question. — Variety  of 
opinions. — Variety  of  ancient  works. — Conclusion. 

The  great  problems  of  the  origin  of  the  American  races, 
and  of  American  civilization,  though  volumes  have 
been  -written  upon  them,  are  yet  unsolved.  Whether, 
according  to  the  inquisitive  and  sagacious  Humboldt,  we 
ought  to  regard  it  as  lying  "  without  the  limits  prescribed 
to  history,  and  even  beyond  the  range  of  philosophical 
investigation,"  or  whether  we  may  look  upon  it  as  still 
open  to  the  examination  of  those  who  are  curious  in 
ancient  lore,  must  be  determined  rather  by  the  ultimate 
result  of  our  discoveries,  and  of  the  speculations  based 


200  ORIENTAL  ANTIQ.UITIES  RECENTLY  EXPLAINED. 

upon  them,  than  upon  the  exaggerated  notions  of  the 
difficulty  of  the  question,  which  the  first  confused  rev- 
elations of  the  travelled  enquirer  may  seem  to  suggest. 

I  am  by  no  means  convinced  in  my  own  mind,  that 
this  question  is  one  which  cannot  now  be  reached,  or 
which  must  be  looked  upon  as  every  year  receding  far- 
ther and  farther  from  our  grasp.  The  antiquities  of  the 
old  world,  buried  for  so  many  ages  in  midnight  oblivion, 
had  remained  through  a  long  course  of  centuries,  the 
standing  enigma  of  Time.  With  the  help  even  of  some 
imperfect  records  from  the  archives  of  ancient  history, 
and  the  aid  of  what  seemed  to  be  a  fair  line  of  tradi- 
tion, the  origin  and  purpose  of  many  of  them,  and  the 
hidden  meaning  of  their  hieroglyphical  embellishments, 
had  continued  to  be  an  inexplicable  mystery  quite  down 
to  our  own  times.  Much  learned  investigation,  from 
acute  observers,  and  profound  reasoners,  had  been 
expended  upon  them,  without  arriving  at  any  satisfac- 
tory result.  And  yet,  after  all,  the  nineteenth  century 
has  expounded  the  riddle.  The  lapse  of  ages,  instead 
of  scattering  beyond  recovery  the  dim,  uncertain  twi- 
light that  hung  about  these  august  monuments  of  the 
solemn  Past,  has  miraculously  preserved  it,  as  it  were 
embalmed  by  a  magic  spiritual  photography,  to  be  con- 
centrated into  a  halo  of  glory  around  the  brow  of 
Champollion.  May  it  not  be  so  with  the  now  myste- 
rious relics  of  the  ancient  races  of  America  ? 

It  may  be  remarked,  and  I  think  the  remark  cannot 
fail  to  commend  itself  to  the  good  sense  of  every  reflect- 
ing mind,  that  no  description,  however  perfect,  or  how- 
ever faithfully  and  ably  illustrated  by  the  art  of  the 
engraver,  can  convey  any  adequate  idea  of  the  charac- 


THE  TWO  EXTREMES  OF  THEORISTS.  201 

ter  of  these  ruins,  or  furnish,  to  one  who  has  not  seen 
them  with  his  own  eyes,  the  basis  of  a  rational  argu- 
ment upon  their  origin.  Were  it  possible  to  transport 
them  entire  to  our  own  fields,  and  reconstruct  them 
there,  in  all  their  primitive  grandeur  and  beauty,  it 
would  not  help  us  to  solve  the  mystery — it  would  not 
convey  to  us  any  just  notion  of  what  they  have  been, 
or  what  they  are.  To  be  realized  and  understood,  they 
must  be  studied  where  they  are,  amid  the  oppressive 
solitude  of  their  ancient  sites,  surrounded  with  the 
luxuriant  vegetation  and  picturesque  scenery  of  their 
native  clime,  the  clear  transparent  heaven  of  the 
tropics  above  them,  and  their  own  unwritten,  unbor- 
rowed associations  lingering  dimly  about  them. 

There  are  two  errors,  lying  at  the  two  extremes  of 
the  broad  area  of  philosophical  inquiry,  into  which 
men  are  liable  to  fall,  in  undertaking  the  discussion 
of  questions  of  this  nature.  The  one  leads  to  hasty 
conclusions  upon  imperfect,  ill-digested  premises ;  the 
other  shrinks  from  all  conclusions,  however  well  sup- 
ported, and  labors  only  to  deepen  the  shadows  of  mys- 
tery, which  hang  about  its  subject.  One  forms  a  shal- 
low theory  of  his  own,  suggested  by  the  first  object  he 
meets  with  on  entering  the  field — or,  perhaps  borrows 
that  of  some  equally  superficial  observer  who  had  gone 
before  him,  or  even  of  some  cloistered  speculator,  who 
has  never  ventured  beyond  the  four  walls  of  his  own 
narrow  study — and,  clinging  to  it  with  the  tenacity  of  a 
parental  instinct  to  its  first  born  impression,  sees  noth- 
ing, hears  nothing,  conceives  nothing,  however  palpa- 
ble and  necessary,  that  will  not  illustrate  and  aggran- 
dize his  one   idea.     The  most  convincing  proofs-  are 


202  A  MEDIUM  COURSE. 

lost  upon  him.  Demonstration  assails  him  in  vain. 
He  started  with  his  conclusion  in  his  hand,  and  it  is 
no  marvel  if  he  comes  back  as  ignorant  as  he 
went,  having  added  nothing  to  his  argument,  but  the 
courage  to  push  it  somewhat  more  boldly  than  before. 

Another  enters  the  field,  thoroughly  convinced  that 
it  is  impossible  to  come  to  any  conclusion  at  all.  He 
fears  to  see  any  thing  decisive,  lest  it  should  compel 
him  to  favor  an  opinion.  He  dreads  an  object  that 
suggests  a  definite  idea,  lest  it  should  draw  him  per- 
force to  support  some  tangible  theory.  He  stumbles 
blindfold  over  palpable  facts,  and  clearly  denned  analo- 
gies, and  converses  only  with  shadows.  His  philosophy 
consists  in  leaning  to  whatever  embarrasses  a  conclu- 
sion, and  following  only  those  contradictory  lights, 
which  perplex  the  judgment,  and  prevent  it  from 
arriving  at  a  precise  and  positive  inference. 

Unsafe  as  it  is  to  trust  to  the  guidance  of  a  mere 
theorist,  there  is  little  satisfaction  in  attempting  to 
follow  the  timid  lead  of  the  universal  doubter.  Is  it 
not  possible  to  find  a  medium  course  ? — to  proceed  with 
philosophic  prudence  and  caution,  taking  due  heed  to 
all  our  steps,  and  yet  to  look  facts  and  analogies  boldly 
in  the  face,  listen  fearlessly  to  all  their  suggestions,  col- 
late, compare,  and  digest  every  hint  and  intimation 
they  put  forth,  and  venture,  without  exposing  ourselves 
to  the  uncharitable  imputation  of  dogmatism,  to  form  and 
express  a  definite  opinion  ?  If  any  thing  would  deter 
me  from'  so  bold  a  step,  it  would  be  the  formidable  array 
of  eminent  names  in  the  list  of  the  doubters.  When 
so  many  of  the  wisest  have  given  it  up  as  hopeless,  it 
requires  no  less  courage  than  skill  to  assume  to  be  an 


MY  OWN  CONCLUSIONS.  203 

(Edipus.  But,  having  already,  on  a  former  occasion, 
been  driven  to  a  positive  inference  from  the  narrow 
premises  afforded  by  the  question,  and  being  answer- 
able therefor  at  the  bar  of  public  criticism,  I  have  less 
at  stake  than  I  should  otherwise  have,  upon  the  opinion 
which  I  have  now  to  offer. 

I  am  free  to  acknowledge  then,  that  the  impressions 
formed  by  my  first  "  rambles  "  among  the  ruined  cities 
of  Yucatan,  have  been  fully  confirmed  by  what  I  have 
now  been  permitted  to  see  in  Mexico.  I  am  compelled, 
in  view  of  all  the  facts  and  analogies  which  they  pre- 
sent, to  assign  those  ruins,  and  the  people  who  con- 
structed them,  to  a  very  remote  antiquity.  They  are 
the  works  of  a  people  who  have  long  since  passed 
away,  and  not  of  the  races,  or  the  progenitors  of  the 
races,  who  inhabited  the  country,  at  the  epoch  of  the 
discovery. 

To  this  conclusion  I  am  led,  or  rather  driven,  by  a 
variety  of  considerations,  which  I  will  endeavor  to  state, 
with  as  much  brevity  and  conciseness  as  the  nature  of 
the  case  will  admit. 

The  first  consideration  to  which  I  shall  allude,  in 
support  of  the  opinion  above  expressed,  is  the  absence 
of  all  tradition  respecting  the  origin  of  these  buildings, 
and  the  people  by  whom  they  were  erected.  Among 
all  the  Indian  tribes  in  all  Central  America,  it  is  not 
known  that  there  is  a  solitary  tradition,  that  can  throw 
a  gleam  of  light  over  the  obscurity  that  hangs  about 
this  question.  The  inference  would  seem  to  be  natural 
and  irresistible,  that  the  listless,  unintellectual,  unam- 
bitious race  of  men,  who  for  centuries  have  lingered 
about  these  ruins,  not  only  without  knowing,  but  with- 


204      NATURE  AND  IMPORTANCE  OF  TRADITION. 

out  caring  to  know,  who  built  them,  cannot  be  the 
descendants,  nor  in  any  way  related  to  the  descendants, 
of  the  builders.  Tradition  is  one  of  the  natural  and 
necessary  elements  of  the  primitive  stages  of  society. 
Its  foundations  are  laid  deep  in  the  social  nature  of 
man.  And  it  is  only  because  it  is  supplanted  by  other 
and  more  perfect  means  of  transmission,  as  civilization 
advances,  that  it  is  not,  always  and  every  where,  the 
only  channel  of  communication  with  the  past,  the  only 
link  between  the  living  and  the  dead.  In  all  ages, 
among  all  nations,  where  written  records  have  been 
wanting,  tradition  has  supplied  the  blank,  and,  genera- 
tion after  generation,  the  story  of  the  past  has  been 
transmitted  from  father  to  son,  and  celebrated  in  the 
song  of  the  wandering  bard,  till,  at  length,  history  has 
seized  the  shadowy  phantom,  and  given  it  a  place  and 
a  name  on  her  enduring  scroll.  This  is  the  fountain 
head  of  all  ancient  history.  True,  it  is  often  so 
blended  with  the  fabulous  inventions  of  poetry,  that  it 
is  not  always  easy  to  sift  out  the  truth  from  the  fiction. 
Still,  it  is  relied  upon  in  the  absence  of  records  :  while 
the  very  fable  itself  is  made  subservient  to  truth,  by 
shadowing  forth,  in  impressive  imagery  and  graceful 
drapery,  her  real  form  and  lineaments.  What  else 
than  fable  is  the  early  history  of  Rome  ? 

Now,  if  these  ruins  of  America  are  of  comparatively 
modern  date,  if,  as  some  have  undertaken  to  show, 
they  were  constructed  and  occupied  by  the  not  very 
remote  ancestors  of  the  Indian  races  who  now  dwell 
among  them,  in  a  state  of  abject  poverty  and  servitude, 
is  it  reasonable,  is  it  conceivable,  that  there  should  not 
be  found  a  man  among  them  acquainted  with  their 


THE  AZTECS  AN  IMAGINATIVE  PEOPLE.     205 

ancient  story,  claiming  affinity  with  their  builders,  and 
rehearsing  in  song,  or  fable, 

The  marvels  of  the  olden  time  ? 

With  these  splendid  and  solemn  reminiscences  always 
before  their  eyes,  with  all  the  hallowed  and  affecting 
associations  that  ever  linger  about  the  ancient  homes  of 
a  cultivated  people, — the  temples  of  its  worship,  the 
palaces  of  its  kings  and  nobles,  the  sepulchres  of  its 
founders  and  fathers,  always  present  and  constantly 
renewed  to  their  minds,  is  it  possible  they  could,  in 
three  brief  centuries,  forget  the  tale,  and  lose  every 
clue  to  their  own  so  gloriously  illustrated  history.  I 
cannot  admit  it.     I  cannot  conceive  of  it. 

The  attempt  to  lay  aside,  or  narrow  down,  this  argu- 
ment from  tradition,  or  the  absence  of  it,  in  order  to 
arrive  at  an  easy  explanation  of  the  mystery  of  these 
ruined  cities,  appears  to  me  to  be  unphilosophical  in 
another  point  of  view.  If  I  understand  aright  the 
character  and  history  of  the  people  who  once  flourished 
here,  this  is  just  the  region,  and  they  are  just  the 
people,  where  this  kind  of  evidence  would  exist  and 
abound.  The  Astecs  were  a  highly  imaginative  and 
poetical  people.  The  picture  writing,  which  prevailed 
among  them,  and  in  which  they  had  attained  so  high 
a  degree  of  perfection,  was  precisely  the  material  on 
which  to  build  traditionary  lore,  and  cultivate  a  taste 
for  it  among  the  common  people.  It  was  the  poetry  of 
hieroglyphics — a  national  literature  of  tropes  and  figures. 
It  selected  a  few  prominent  comprehensive  images,  as 
the  representatives  of  great  events.  Strongly  drawn 
and  highlv  colored,  these  would   impress  themselves 

18 


206  SUPPOSED  EFFECT  OF  THE  CONQ.UEST. 

powerfully  on  the  minds  and  memories  of  the  people, 
and  be  associated  with  all  that  was  dear  to  their  hearts. 
Their  personal  histories,  their  family  distinctions,  their 
national  pride,  would  all  be  involved  in  them,  and  all 
have  a  part  in  securing  their  faithful  preservation  and 
transmission.  Inexhaustible  fountains  of  national  song 
and  poetical  fable,  they  would  be  recited  in  their  public 
assemblies,  and  handed  down  from  generation  to  gene- 
ration. They  would  be  to  America  what  the  Homeric 
poems  were  to  Greece,  and  many  long  ages  would  not 
obliterate  or  destroy  them. 

It  has  been  argued,  by  way  of  anticipating  such 
views  as  these,  that  the  unexampled  severities  and 
oppressions  of  the  Spanish  conquerors,  broke  the  spirit 
of  these  once  proud  nations,  and  so  trampled  them  in 
the  dust,  as  to  annihilate  those  sentiments  and  affec- 
tions, which  form  the  basis  of  national  pride  and  tradi- 
tionary lore.  It  is  a  violent  assumption,  unsupported 
by  any  parallel  in  history,  ancient  or  modern.  Remove 
them  from  their  ancient  inheritance,  transplant  them  to 
other  climes,  surround  them  with  other  scenes,  amalga- 
mate them  with  other  people,  and  they  may,  in  process 
of  time,  forget  their  origin  and  their  name.  But,  in 
the  midst  of  their  father's  sepulchres,  with  their  tem- 
ples, their  pyramids,  their  palaces,  all  around  them, 

Their  native  soil  beneath  their  feet, 
Their  native  skies  above  them, — 

it  is  inconceivable,  impossible. 

At  this  point  I  shall  probably  be  interrupted,  by  the 
inquisitive  reader,  with  the  question,  whether  I  am  not 
overturning  my  own  position,   by  insisting  that  the 


THE  TOLTECS.  207 

ancient  Aztecs,  and  their  works,  must  necessarily  live 
in  tradition,  while  I  allow  that  the  Mexican  Indians 
retain  no  memory  of  their  ancestors.  I  conceive  not. 
The  ruins  to  which  I  refer,  are  not  those  of  the  Mexi- 
can and  Tezcucan  cities,  which  were  sacked  by  the 
Spaniards,  almost  demolished,  and  then  rebuilt  in  a 
comparatively  modern  style  of  architecture.  Of  those 
we  need  no  native  tradition.  The  Spanish  histories 
have  told  us  all  that  we  can  know  of  them. 

But  even  of  these,  as  the  Spaniards  found  them,  we 
have  no  certain  evidence  that  the  people  who  then 
occupied  them,  were  the  sole  builders.  We  have  both 
tradition  and  history  to  justify  us  in  asserting  that  they 
were  not.  Another  race  had  preceded  them,  and  filled 
the  country  with  their  works  of  genius  and  art.  The 
Toltecs,  whose  advent  into  the  territory  of  Anahuac, 
is  placed  as  far  back  as  the  seventh  century  of  the 
Christian  era,  were  not  inferior  to  the  Aztecs  in  refine- 
ment, and  the  knowledge  of  the  mechanic  arts.  To 
them  the  Aztec  paintings  accord  the  credit  of  most  of 
the  science  which  prevailed  among  themselves,  and 
acknowledged  them  as  the  fountain  head  of  their  civili- 
zation. The  capital  of  their  empire  was  at  Tula,  north 
of  the  Mexican  valley,  and  the  remains  of  extensive 
buildings  were  to  be  seen  there  at  the  time  of  the  con- 
quest. To  the  same  people  were  ascribed  the  ruins  of 
other  noble  edifices,  found  in  various  places  throughout 
the  country,  so  vast  and  magnificent,  that,  with  some 
writers,  "  the  name,  Toltec,  has  passed  into  a  synonyme 
for  architect."  Following  in  their  footsteps,  and  ac- 
knowledging them  as  their  teachers,  it  would  not  be 
strange  if  the  Aztecs  should,  in  some  instances,  have 


m 


208  A  CHOICE  OF  CONCLUSIONS. 


m 


occupied  the  buildings  they  left  behind,  and  employed 
the  remnant  that  still  remained  in  the  country,  in  erect- 
ing others. 

But,  without  insisting  upon  this  conjecture,  it  is  clear 
that  there  were  other  and  earlier  builders  than  the 
Aztecs.  The  Toltecs  passed  away,  as  a  nation,  a  full 
century,  according  to  the  legend,  before  the  arrival  of  the 
Aztecs.  Their  works  filled  the  country.  Accounts  of 
them  abounded  in  the  Tezcucan  tablets.  They  were 
celebrated  by  the  Aztec  painters.  They  were  still  mag- 
nificent and  wonderful  in  ruins,  when  the  Spaniards 
arrived.  And  yet,  among  the  present  race  of  Indians 
in  Mexico,  there  is  no  tradition  respecting  them,  no 
knowledge  of  their  origin,  no  interest  whatever  in  their 
history. 

From  these  premises,  we  have  a  choice  of  two  con- 
clusions. Either  the  ruined  buildings  and  cities  of 
Anahuac  are  not  the  work  of  the  comparatively  modern 
race  of  Aztecs,  or  the  present  Indians  are  not  the  descen- 
dants of  that  race.  That  the  former  conclusion  is  true, 
I  think  there  cannot  be  a  doubt.  The  latter  may  be 
true,  also,  to  a  great  extent.  That  refined  and  haughty 
people  may  have  wasted  entirely  away  under  the  grind- 
ing yoke  of  their  new  task-masters,  and  the  indolent 
inefficient  slaves,  that  remain  as  their  nominal  repre- 
sentatives, may  be  only  the  degenerate  posterity  of  infe- 
rior tribes,  the  vassals  of  the  Mexican  crown. 

Another  consideration  which  strongly  favors  the 
view  I  have  taken,  with  respect  to  the  antiquity  of  these 
ruins,  is  the  character  of  the  ruins  themselves,  and  the 
condition  in  which  they  are  found.  That  they  do  not 
all  belong  to  one  race,  nor  to  one  age,  it  seems  to  me 


THESE  WORKS  ERECTED  IN  DIFFERENT  AGES.    209 

no  careful  or  candid  observer  can  deny.  They  are  of 
different  constructions,  and  different  styles  of  architec- 
ture. They  are  widely  different  in  their  finish  and  adorn- 
ments. And  they  are  in  every  stage  of  decay,  from  a 
habitable  and  tolerably  comfortable  dwelling,  to  a  con- 
fused mass  of  undistinguishable  ruins.  In  all  these  par- 
ticulars, as  well  as  in  the  gigantic  forests  which  have 
grown  up  in  the  walls  and  on  the  terraces  of  some  of 
them,  and  the  deep  deposit  of  vegetable  mould  which  has 
accumulated  upon  others,  they  are  clearly  seen  to  belong 
to  different  and  distant  ages,  and  consequently  to  be  the 
work  of  many  different  artists.  That  some  of  them 
were  the  work  of  the  Toltecs,  is  well  substantiated,  as 
we  have  already  seen.  What  portion  of  the  great  area 
of  ruins  to  assign  to  them,  I  know  not.  But  if,  as 
one  of  the  most  cautious  and  judicious  historians  sup- 
poses, they  were  the  architects  of  Mitla,  Palenque  and 
Copan,  thus  fixing  the  date  of  those  magnificent  cities 
several  centuries  anterior  to  the  rise  of  the  Aztec 
dynasty,  they  could  not  have  been  the  first  of  the 
American  builders.  Their  works  are  still  in  a  com- 
paratively good  state  of  preservation,  and  may  remain, 
for  ages  to  come,  the  dumb  yet  eloquent  monuments  of 
their  greatness  ;  while  others,  not  only  in  their  imme- 
diate vicinity,  but  in  different  parts  of  the  country,  are 
crumbled,  decayed,  scattered,  and  buried,  as  if  long  ages 
had  passed  over  them,  before  the  foundations  of  the 
former  were  laid.  There  is  every  thing  in  the  style 
and  appearance  of  the  ruins  to  favor  this  conclusion, 
and  to  confirm  the  opinion,  that  some  of  them  are 
farther  removed  in  their  origin  from  the  Toltecs,  than 
the  Toltecs  are  from  us.     Some  of  those  described  in 


210  ORIGIN  OF  THE  AMERICAN  RACES. 

the  preceding  chapters  of  this  work,  are  manifestly 
many  ages  older  than  those  of  Chi-chen,  Uxmal  and 
others  in  Yucatan,  which  I  visited  on  a  former  occasion. 

Having  extended  these  remarks  somewhat  farther 
than  I  intended,  perhaps  I  ought  to  apologize  to  the 
reader  for  asking  his  attention,  a  few  moments,  to  an- 
other problem  growing  out  of  this  subject,  which  has 
given  rise  to  more  discussion,  and  been  attended  with 
less  satisfaction  in  its  results,  than  any  other.  I  refer 
to  the  origin  of  the  ancient  American  races.  From 
what  quarter  of  the  globe  did  they  come  1  And  how 
did  they  get  here  1 

The  last  question  I  shall  not  touch  at  all.  It  will 
answer  itself,  as  soon  as  the  other  is  settled.  And,  if  that 
cannot  be  settled  at  all — -if  we  are  utterly  foiled  in  our 
efforts  to  ascertain  whence  they  came — it  will  be  of  little 
avail  to  inquire  for  the  how. 

The  learned  author  of  "  The  Vestiges  of  Creation," 
and  other  equally  profound  speculators  of  the  Monboddo 
school,  would  probably  find  an  easy  way  to  unravel 
the  enigma,  on  their  sceptical  theory  of  the  progres- 
sive generation  of  man.  But  regarding  the  Mosaic 
history  as  worthy  not  only  of  a  general  belief,  but  of 
a  literal  interpretation,  I  cannot  dispose  of  the  question 
in  that  summary  way.  I  would  rather  meet  it  with  all 
its  seemingly  irreconcilable  difficulties  about  it,  or  not 
meet  it  at  all,  than  favor  the  subtle  atheism  of  these 
baptized  canting  Yoltaires,  and  relinquish  my  early  and 
cherished  faith,  that  man  is  the  immediate  offspring  of 
God,  the  peculiar  workmanship  of  his  Divine  hand. 
There  is  nothing  soothing  to  my  pride  of  reason,  noth- 
ing grateful  to  my  affections,  nothing  elevating  to  my 


THE  SOLITARY  TRADITION.  211 

faith,  in  the  idea  that  man  is  but  an  improved  species 
of  monkey,  a  civilized  ourang-outang,  with  his  tail 
worn  off,  or  driven  in. 

There  is  but  one  solitary  tradition  among  all  the 
American  races,  bearing  upon  the  general  question  of 
their  origin ;  and  that,  singularly  enough,  is  universal 
among  them.  It  represents  them  as  coming  from 
northwest.  From  what  other  portion  of  the  world,  from 
what  distance,  at  what  time,  and  in  what  manner,  it 
does  not  in  any  way  declare,  or  intimate.  Whether 
it  was  five  centuries  ago,  or  fifty,  there  is  not,  I  believe, 
a  single  tribe  that  pretends  to  know,  or  to  guess.  And 
yet  there  is  not  a  tribe  on  this  side  the  great  northern 
lakes,  among  whom  this  general  tradition  of  the  migra- 
tion of  their  ancestors  from  the  northwest,  is  not  found. 
There  are  many  and  various  traditions  among  them  in 
respect  to  other  matters,  presenting  many  and  curious 
coincidences  with  the  traditionary  and  fabulous  history 
of  some  of  the  oldest  nations  in  the  world.  But,  on 
this  point,  the  origin  of  their  own  races,  they  have 
nothing  to  say,  except  that,  at  a  remote  period  of  anti- 
quity, their  fathers  came  from  the  northwest. 

With  such  an  index  as  this,  pointing  so  decidedly 
and  unchangeably  to  Behring's  strait,  where  the  coast 
of  Asia  approaches  within  fifty  miles  of  that  of  Amer- 
ica, it  would  seem,  at  first  sight,  that  the  question 
might  be  easily  answered.  And  so  it  could  be,  but 
that  some  authors  are  more  fond  of  conjecture  than  of 
certainty,  of  doubt  than  of  probability.  To  those  who 
believe,  with  Moses,  that  the  peopling  of  the  earth  com- 
menced in  Asia,  there  is  manifestly  no  mode  of  account- 
ing for  the  population  of  America,  so  natural  as  that 


212  IMAGINARY  DIFFICULTIES 

to  which  this  one  omni-prevalent  tradition  points.  It 
would  have  been  considered  abundantly  sufficient  and 
satisfactory,  if  it  had  not  been  continually  involved  with 
other  questions,  on  the  solution  of  which  it  does  not 
necessarily  depend. 

One  writer,  for  example,  thinks  it  impossible  that 
these  people  could  have  come  to  America,  by  way  of 
Behring's  Strait,  because  there  are  animals  in  the  trop- 
ical regions  who  could  not  have  come  that  way.  Be 
it  so.  The  question  relates  not  to  animals,  but  to  men. 
By  whatever  other  way  they  might  have  come,  it  is  not 
at  all  probable  that  they  would  have  brought  tigers, 
monkeys,  or  rattle-snakes  with  them.  If  it  could  be 
proved,  by  authentic  and  unquestionable  records,  that 
they  crossed  the  Atlantic  or  the  Pacific  in  ships,  the 
mystery  of  the  tropical  animals  would  still  remain  to 
be  solved. 

Another,  and  it  is  a  numerous  class,  whose  imagina- 
tion is  inflamed  with  fancied  resemblances  in  the  lan- 
guages, customs,  traditions  and  mythology  of  the  Indian 
races,  to  those  of  particular  nations  in  the  old  World, 
deems  it  absolutely  necessary  to  construct  some  other 
ancient,  but  now  obliterated  highway,  to  our  shores, 
from  those  parts  of  Europe  or  Asia,  nearest  to  that  from 
which  his  favorite  theory  supposes  them  to  have  sprung. 
To  some,  Iceland  was  the  natural  stepping  stone,  a 
half-way  house,  from  the  North  of  Europe.  To  others, 
a  chain  of  islands  once  stretched  from  the  shores  of 
Afrira  to  those  of  South  America — a  sort  of  Giant's 
Causeway  from  Continent  to  Continent,  miraculously 
thrown  up  for  the  purpose  of  stocking  this  Western 
World  with  men  and  animals,  and  then,  like  a  useless 


MANY  DIFFERENT  RACES.  213 

draw-bridge,  as  miraculously  laid  aside.  Other  theo- 
ries, not  less  extravagant  than  these,  have  heen  invented, 
and  strenuously  maintained,  for  the  benevolent  purpose 
of  accommodating  the  poor  Aborigines  with  an  easy 
passage  from  their  supposed  birth  place  to  their  present 
homes.  Yet,  strange  to  say,  those  obstinate  and  un- 
grateful savages  all  persist  in  declaring  that,  when  their 
ancestors  arrived  in  this  country,  they  came  by  way  of 
the  northwest. 

It  is  one  of  the  prominent  errors  of  most  of  the  wri- 
ters on  this  subject,  that,  with  the  exception  of  the 
Esquimaux,  they  aim  to  find  a  common  origin  for  all 
the  American  tribes.  True,  there  is  a  common  type  to 
all  the  North  American  Indians,  and  there  is  good  rea- 
son to  suppose  that  they  sprung  from  a  common  stock. 
But  it  is  not  so  with  the  nations  of  Central  and  South 
America,  or  rather  with  those  of  them  whose  mighty 
works  have  given  rise  to  these  discussions.  I  think  it 
cannot  be  questioned,  that  there  were  among  them, 
the  representatives  of  many  different  nations  or  races. 
Of  this  the  sculptured  heads  we  have  exhibited  from 
among  the  ruins  of  their  ancient  cities,  bear  witness. 
Compare  the  outlines  and  features  of  the  heads  repre- 
sented on  pages  128,  130,  136,  and  178,  of  the  present 
work,  first  with  each  other,  then  with  the  different  rep- 
resentations of  the  human  head,  as  found  among  these 
ancient  relics  by  other  travellers,  and  then  again  with 
the  types  of  the  four  great  divisions  of  the  human  fam- 
ily. The  comparison  exhibits  this  curious  result,  that 
the  American,  or  Indian  type,  has  no  representative 
among  these  sculptured  figures ;  while  almost  eveiy 
variety  of  the  Caucasian  and  Mongolian  is  found  there. 


214  THE  AMERICAN  TYPE   NOT  FOUND. 

If  the  portrait  of  Montezuma,  in  the  second  volume  of 
Prescott's  Conquest  of  Mexico,  be  taken  as  a  genuine 
likeness,  it  is  plain  that  he  did  not  belong  to  the  Amer- 
ican race.     There  is  no  mark  of  the  Indian  about  it. 

It  will  be  admitted,  I  suppose,  that  Art,  in  all  ages, 
and  among  all  nations,  is  but  a  humble  imitator  of 
Nature.  The  Sculptor,  and  the  Painter,  works  always 
by  a  model.  His  beau  ideal  is  the  highest  form  of  liv- 
ing beauty  which  he  sees  around  him.  He  may  select 
and  combine  the  features  of  several  subjects,  to  make  a 
perfect  whole.  But  these  features  are  all  those  of  the 
living  beings  with  whom  he  is  conversant,  and  repre- 
sent the  race  to  which  he  belongs.  And  whenever  he 
departs  from  the  living  model,  except  to  select  and  com- 
bine, his  figures  become  invariably  grotesque,  ridicu- 
lous and  disgusting. 

Was  it  because  the  ancient  American  artists,  at  the 
time  when  their  works  of  art  were  executed,  had  never 
seen  a  specimen  of  what  we  call  the  American  race, 
that  there  is  no  good  representation  of  the  Indian  head 
among  their  works?  We  are  not  surprised  that  the 
African  is  wanting  there ;  for,  notwithstanding  the 
"  Giant's  Causeway  "  above  alluded  to,  no  individual  of 
that  race  seems  ever  to  have  visited  the  shores  of  Amer- 
ica, except  by  compulsion.  They  were  unknown  to 
the  Aborigines,  till  they  were  introduced  by  the  whites, 
as  slaves.  Shall  I  venture  to  infer,  from  the  absence  of 
the  Indian  type,  that  that  race  was  also  unknown  here, 
at  the  time  when  these  artists  flourished  on  the  Ameri- 
can soil  ?  Were  all  these  great  works  constructed  and 
finished  before  the  present  races  of  Indians  found  their 
way  into  that  part  of  the  Continent?     How  old,  then, 


MIGRATORY  HABITS  OF  THE  EARLY  AGES.       215 

are  the  works  ?  Who  were  the  builders  ?  From  what 
part  of  the  great  human  family  did  they  spring  7 

In  treating  banteringly  of  the  "  Talismanic  Penates," 
in  my  tenth  chapter,  I  presumed  to  draw  from  them 
some  evidence  of  the  Asiatic  origin  of  the  people  by 
whom  they  were  cherished.  The  figures  on  the  178th 
page  are  representatives  of  originals  found  only  in 
that  part  of  the  world.  The  solitary  tradition  referred 
to  above,  points  in  the  same  direction.  Did  Tartary, 
China,  or  Japan,  furnish  to  America,  ages  ago,  a  race 
of  sculptors  and  palace-builders  ? 

In  the  early  ages  of  the  world's  history,  the  families 
of  men  were  far  more  unsettled,  and  migratory  in  their 
habits,  than  they  now  are.  It  was  not  an  uncommon 
thing  for  whole  nations  to  change  their  abodes  at  once. 
The  north  of  Europe,  and  the  adjacent  regions  of  Asia, 
like  an  over-populous  hive,  sent  out  many  swarms  of 
restless  adventurers,  to  overrun  and  occupy  the  fairer 
fields  of  the  south.  Goths,  Yandals,  Huns,  swept  over 
the  land,  in  successive  deluges,  that  threatened  to  over- 
turn every  vestige  of  ancient  civilization.  But  the 
mighty  flood  rolled  back  from  the  walls  of  Rome,  and 
carried  with  it  the  arts  and  sciences,  and  the  enervating 
luxuries  of  the  south.  In  all  these  desperate  encounters 
of  barbarism  with  civilization,  there  was  an  extensive 
interchange,  and  blending  of  nations  and  races.  Each 
melted  into  each,  like  the  glaciers  of  the  mountain,  and 
the  lakes  of  the  valley,  blended  and  lost  in  the  stream 
that  bears  them  both  to  the  ocean.  The  same  irrup- 
tions, the  same  amalgamations  of  conquerors  with  the 
conquered,  took  place  in  earlier  ages,  in  the  far  east. 
And  there  is  no  violent  improbability  in  supposing,  that 


216  CONCLUSION. 

the  overcharged  fountain  of  humanity,  in  the  central 
regions,  sometimes  overleaped  its  eastern  barriers,  as 
well  as  its  western,  and,  meeting  with  no  resistance,  as 
in  the  south,  spread  itself  quite  to  the  shores  of  the 
Pacific,  and  thence  into  the  neighboring  continent  of 
America.  This  may  have  been  done  at  many  different 
and  distant  periods,  even  back  to  the  dispersion  of 
Babel.  Who  shall  say  it  was  not  so  ?  We  know 
almost  as  little  of  ancient  eastern  Asia,  as  of  ancient 
America.  But  we  do  know  that  it  might  have  fur- 
nished all  the  races  that  are  known,  or  supposed,  to 
have  existed  here.  If  we  had  not  authentic  records 
for  the  irruptions  of  the  northern  hordes,  and  for  the 
great  crusades  of  the  Middle  Ages,  the  Old  World 
would  furnish  enigmas,  as  difficult  to  be  solved,  as 
those  of  the  New. 


